GTR transfer case. 33 in 2wd?

[Guest lrich]

What if any drama would you cause to a 33 case in 2wd, over a 32? Ive heard people say here that a 32 is easily tricked into 2wd, but yet Ive seen dyno shots of 33's in 2wd. What technical differnce if any is there? And if any why would it cause damage to the transfer case. They are just a hydraulicly actuated clutch arent they?

[32godzilla]

Irich.... plenty of GTR questions, thinking of getting one??

Putting a GTR into 2WD is as simple as pulling the fuse, no damage done whatsoever. Doesn't matter if it's a 32, 33 or 34.

BTW, the HKS torque splitter you mentioned in another post can have a drag unit connected to it for burn out purposes.

The torque splitter is approx. $1350 and the drag unit is approx. $350, but it is quite easy to make a switch up for about $10. You can flick the switch from 4WD to 2WD at ANY speed, but to go back to 4WD you need to come to a complete stop before the computer will allow the car back into 4WD.

[Guest lrich]

Frkn bastards with GTRs. Geez. No, Im just jealous really I will get one soon, but have been researching for about 2 years. I actually came close to buying a Aussie delivered 32 about 6-7 years ago! I bought a house instead with about the same money. Anyway...... I have been thinking about the torque split and how to improve it (cos it'll most likely be non v-spec) . The Auto speed article on modding the ATESSA said that by altering the lateral signal that the front torque was altered, so as not to steer through a corner like a full time 4wd. This had me thinking that you could make a launch control by having an altered lateral input as you launched (timed to suit car) then the rears would light up enough to so that you can get the rears lit up, engine into power band just as the front progressivly comes on. Hopefully this would save the clutch, gearbox, shafts etc and possibly could reduce times. Good idea? If it is , and would work, why hasnt someone done it?

[Doctor]

I was pretty sure only the R32 is a easy as pulling the fuse but on 33 & 34 youll burn out your clutch packs?

[32godzilla]

Irich, GTR's behave like that normally. If I drop the clutch at say 6000rpm, the back wheels will light up momentarily then front torque comes in, and by that time your definately in the 3500-4000rpm where the turbos start pulling hard.

[Guest lrich]

Yes but for a real hard launch you have to be cruel to the car. My point was trying to be a bit more humane on the hard launches by giving a bit more delay on the front wheels, also to have a bit more bias to the front when you want it.

[Guest lrich]

And also why will you burn out your clutch packs? Is it they have a bit of pretension in 33 + 34s? Is it because............? Why? Surely its the same transfer case, with slight differences between models? I would have thought the biggest changes between models are the soft/firmware in ecu's and modules like attessa. Also I wonder how hard it would be to change the sample rate of the abs, attessa etc?!

[Doctor]

Because the r33&34 have constant power going to the front wheels unlike the R32.

This is from what I have heard as I have never seen a r33 or 34 on a 2wd dyno.

[32godzilla]

yeah okay, I see what you're saying. I must admit it's hard getting a decent launch without revving the hell out of it and dropping it!! Some people look at you strange when you do that at the lights!!

To the doctor, I just assumed R33's could just have the fuse pulled 'cause I've seen them on the 2WD dyno at Tilbrook's and remember Mark mumbling something about how the fuses are in different places for the various models and he has trouble remembering where they are.

Anyone out there with a 33/34 GTR that can confirm this??

[Guest lrich]

OK so the 33 + 34 have some sort of constant power to the front wheels. Im assuming this is because of a software difference in Attessa?! The second assumption Ill make is that if the transfer case (33+34) is a hydraulicly actuated clutch pack, brought into action by an electric hydraulic pump(like a 32), surely you can interupt the power to the pump (or the whole attessa system) to stop power to the front? The other urban myth I wish to debunk is that you will damage/ wear out a transfer case if you mod the attessa to bring in the fronts a bit more for cornering or wet. Fair enough you are using the clutches a bit more, but if the 33+34 have close to "full time 4wd" then Nissan must have addressed any problem with better clutch material maybe?! Has anyone heard of or seen damage or wear to a trans case in any GTR? What are the 9/10 sec cars running there?

[Guest lrich]

I reversed the car back on FWD which pretty well fried the transfer case

John Munro (bless his efforts to make the rest of us look slow) said this in his long (but excellent) post on the story of his 33. Can someone more enlightened on gtr workings tell me why this is so? With broken rear shafts, reversing a gtr with just front wheel drive- why would it cause damage? Not doubting or dis respecting John for a second, but I just dont understand. Thanks.

[Munro]

I am not that clued up on exactly how transfer cases work, but I know how they act when given a hard time! I dont believe R33s or R34 have full time drive to the front - my R34 goes sideways all the time & takes a second or 2 to right itself.The R34 does have more front bias than the R33or32, but the attessa still needs to detect rear wheel loss of traction before it will transfer the torque.

You can not just pull a fuse to cut front drive in a 33 or 34.When you see them on a dyno they have had the front driveshafts removed. Even cars with HKS ETCs in them have front driveshafts removed for safety. When we dyno the race car we don't remove them 'cause it has a hydraulic controller & cannot engage FWD without the lever down(we do cable tie it for safety).

Sometimes the ETCs mess up the brain in the hicas & cause the rear to start steering the car under power - very unsettling for passengers - I have just fitted a Hicas lock to my street R33 due to this happening! I think the transfer case dies at willowbank because they are not designed to transfer 100% drive through to the front - usually only 40-50%, but I am not an expert on this so I could be wrong. As far as trying to make others look slow - that is not my intention, I just love going fast & was not smart enough to be a jet pilot, so this is the next best thing. And to be able to do it in cars that look & handle as good as Skylines, well lets just say I'm a big fan of them.

[dAVE]

I am almost sure that you cant just pull a fuse on the 33 and 34. I was at a dyno with knowledable people, and to get a 33 gtr into rwd, they had to hoist it up and remove the front drive shaft.

[Guest lrich]

Thanks John

Has anyone seen an online manual or exploded views of skyline bits? I cant imagine there would be too much as manufacturers tend not to let too much stuff out, apart from workshop manuals. I spose I wont know much of what I want untill I get my own and stick it on the hoist! Ive looked under the Hiace lots, not much interesting there.