Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153870-cusco-2-way-diff-readjustment/
Share on other sites

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

  • 7 months later...
You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

Well I just had a win with the diff. I decided to go with an oil change and my god the difference is insane. I was using the incorrect oil weighting (90w140 I think) and I just changed it to penrite "sin 75" (75w90 synthetic oil).

The diff is silent with no chattering or clunking. Its nice and tight yet really smooth. I feel like a real mooron :P

that oil is way to thin for the diff, stick an lsd oil in it like ls90 or ls140 plus an additive like ford motorsport diff additive or something similar

The oil I used is meant for LSD's.

It is designed to work for any gearbox / differential (includeing lsd's) that require 75w90 or 80w90.

It has worked the treat so I don't see it being a problem.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

yeah get that shock proof outta there, awesome for boxes.... baad for diffs. Redline do a excellent oil for mech diffs so use it instead 85w140.

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

Different diffs will need different oils. I am just telling people about my troubles and my soltions to the issues. No lies just what I did and what outcome I had.

I agree that penright may not be the best brand around for oils but in this instance it worked out great.

I have had a search and KAAZ and Nismo diffs recommend the 80w90 weighting so I think the cusco RS diff in my r32 will be ok.

Edited by RedDrifter
im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

thanks cubes...

should i save the redline and put it in my box :P i think its a bit too thick for the box 75w-140 as its only been in ther for 2 practices and 800kms

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just quickly my mate got me some penrite limslip 85w-140 extra heavy duty SAE API GL - 5/6 extreme pressure limited slip differentials oil

will this be suitable for my cusco 2way LSD.. im sick of the chatter and clunks with the Redline.

thanks

mark.

markimak,

Try some friction modifier first. Unsure if ford still stock it or not.

But failing that simply drop the castrol saf-xa oil in to it that already has the friction modifier in it. OR buy redline again + friction modifier and it will be just as good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's a fair chance that my bushes are Nismo, because I'm reasonably sure that when asked the question (when putting the subframe into the car in ~2012) "What bushes do you want to run?", I'm pretty sure I would have answered "The stiff ones!". I had to put some silicone grease onto the GKTech inserts I jammed into them last week, because the bushes were quite resistant to having something jammed up their jacksies. So, I reckon you'll be best off doing Nismo + inserts. And, if I'd known you had PU bushes in the subframe AND PU pineapples, I perhaps would have said earlier that that's probably not a good idea. The pineapples are only intended to work with the stock type bushes, because those have a crush tube (which is what makes it end up looking like there is sloppy space in there - but doesn't, because the crush tube does make contact steel to steel) and the pineapples live in the space between the subframe's outer tube and the lower washer/bracket. But the PU bushes don't leave the space in the same way that the stock format ones do, and they do end up fighting for space. Order some bushes and collars and get to it.
    • Thats the current state of the reo. Bit ew, but GTR Reo and supporting bars are $2000, and 2nd hand GTT ones are $1000... More engine disassembly. The good news is   Various LS weird sounds are apparently normal Everything coming out is in perfect condition The bad news is: Everything coming out is in perfect condition It looks like whoever assembled this engine ~25,000km ago was telling the truth with what's in it and how they did it. Even things I was unsure of like the timing chain - But it's a brand new double row timing chain, spaced perfectly. They even cut up the stock windage tray to keep it instead of being lazy and to work with the baffle. Cam, Heads, springs, LS7 lifters, Pushrods - All look new and have obviously been working perfectly. In other news, we removed the pineapples that were loaded below the superpro subframe bushes. They look a fair bit munted and have deformed the poly bushes that are 'above' them. I'm telling myself that now that there's space 'under' the bush between the little cup that bolts in... that having a pineapple wedged there was bad and basically made the rear end solid. The pineapple and the superpro bush are ... equally deformed (i.e they have deformed one another from being smashed together). We'll see how it goes with bushes only. I am sure this cope will fail and the answer will be to drop the subframe and put nismo rubber bushes in there instead. $400 worth of gaskets and ARP head bolts to replace perfectly new looking gaskets that absolutely weren't leaking  and were installed perfectly with great care - because god damnit.    
    • Why bother? Keep them under 1bar and be happy, I had it for 10 years and never had an issue. once you go beyond that the budget blows out fast and then keeps on blowing out 
    • I'd still recommend rebuilding the turbos too. That will eat up a lot of the budget especially if you aren't willing to put in the labor to R&R the turbos yourself but it's a huge risk to ignore it at this point.
    • Can't help it, its an illness. 
×
×
  • Create New...