Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153870-cusco-2-way-diff-readjustment/
Share on other sites

Can a Cusco 2 way LSD (R32 GTST) diff center be readjusted/retention to be a little less tight.

Its a little clunky witch doesn't worry me but its a little tight for street driving.

If it cant be no biggy Just thought I would ask the Question.

Cheers.

You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

  • 7 months later...
You could grind the plates a bit thinner, maybe machine the case to have less preload, or just maybe remove one pair of plates, you'd need to get it stripped on the bench and have look / measure up.

Well I just had a win with the diff. I decided to go with an oil change and my god the difference is insane. I was using the incorrect oil weighting (90w140 I think) and I just changed it to penrite "sin 75" (75w90 synthetic oil).

The diff is silent with no chattering or clunking. Its nice and tight yet really smooth. I feel like a real mooron :P

that oil is way to thin for the diff, stick an lsd oil in it like ls90 or ls140 plus an additive like ford motorsport diff additive or something similar

The oil I used is meant for LSD's.

It is designed to work for any gearbox / differential (includeing lsd's) that require 75w90 or 80w90.

It has worked the treat so I don't see it being a problem.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

yeah get that shock proof outta there, awesome for boxes.... baad for diffs. Redline do a excellent oil for mech diffs so use it instead 85w140.

Well I would try the "SIN 75 or sin 80" these oils are synthetic and are GLI 4 and 5 complient so I would not use it to be braking in the diff but after that I dont see it being a problem.

Make sense to me as a thinner oil would penitrate the plates of a tight lsd better than a thicker oil.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

i have no faith in penrite oils after seeing some of the results in oil sample tests but your theory on thinners oils is no-where close to reality unfortunately.

Different diffs will need different oils. I am just telling people about my troubles and my soltions to the issues. No lies just what I did and what outcome I had.

I agree that penright may not be the best brand around for oils but in this instance it worked out great.

I have had a search and KAAZ and Nismo diffs recommend the 80w90 weighting so I think the cusco RS diff in my r32 will be ok.

Edited by RedDrifter
im using redline shockproof NS with friction modifier.. on my 180 it is harsh as hell.. and clunks everywher.. the oil is 75-140 from memory...

was thinking of switching it out with castrol syntrans or the penrite.

what do u think.?

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

Its the Syntrax you want.. Not the Syntrans.

The Syntrans is for transmissions and the syntrax for diff's.

The Castrol Syntrax has the ford lsd additive already in it.

thanks cubes...

should i save the redline and put it in my box :P i think its a bit too thick for the box 75w-140 as its only been in ther for 2 practices and 800kms

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys just quickly my mate got me some penrite limslip 85w-140 extra heavy duty SAE API GL - 5/6 extreme pressure limited slip differentials oil

will this be suitable for my cusco 2way LSD.. im sick of the chatter and clunks with the Redline.

thanks

mark.

markimak,

Try some friction modifier first. Unsure if ford still stock it or not.

But failing that simply drop the castrol saf-xa oil in to it that already has the friction modifier in it. OR buy redline again + friction modifier and it will be just as good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
×
×
  • Create New...