Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HICAS light can be effected by different: steering wheel, suspension, wheels, etc... so its probably going to be on.

I'd be more worried about compresson being even.

Some people have their turbos last for ages without problems. Some people smoke for years without problems.

Alot of people however, DO have issues with GTR's. Such as cooling and turbo problems. I had both and it was a big issue, had to sell it.

Its not just as simple as looking at the plenum to see how much paint is on there as some people say... lol.

I'd just reckon you need to be prepared to spend alot if you buy a GTR under 20k. Who knows, it might last years without a cent spent...but you'd be foolish to not be prepared for alot of drama's.

Difference with a GTR is... engines are worth a furtune if you need to replace or rebuild and so are turbo's.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HICAS light can be effected by different: steering wheel, suspension, wheels, etc... so its probably going to be on.

I'd be more worried about compresson being even.

Some people have their turbos last for ages without problems. Some people smoke for years without problems.

Alot of people however, DO have issues with GTR's. Such as cooling and turbo problems. I had both and it was a big issue, had to sell it.

Its not just as simple as looking at the plenum to see how much paint is on there as some people say... lol.

I'd just reckon you need to be prepared to spend alot if you buy a GTR under 20k. Who knows, it might last years without a cent spent...but you'd be foolish to not be prepared for alot of drama's.

Difference with a GTR is... engines are worth a furtune if you need to replace or rebuild and so are turbo's.

it's the 4wd light that's on!!

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

do you mean difference between the base model and vspec model or the diff between a 92 and 94 vspec ?

differences to base model are

faster atessa pro 4wd computer

brembos

17in bbs mesh rims

harder suspension

sticker on the back

many people think the vspecs 32 will be collectable as only 3000 were made . there were quite a lot more 33 vspecs

i dont know the difference between vpsec's in different years if there is any , i dont think there is . I have read that the rb26 in the 94s has some changes that appear in the 33 rb26 but their minor and that would apply to all 94s

so there arnt any engine canges as in fixing weak points etc? I am looking at buying a white 32 94 model gtr vspec with brembos etc.

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

To be honest the engine looks really really good no paint missing on the plenum it's got crome rocker covers and apparentlly hks cams. i'll post up some pics, but stupid me forgot to take pics of the engine. the car was only driving in rear wheel drive though.

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

To be honest the engine looks really really good no paint missing on the plenum it's got crome rocker covers and apparentlly hks cams. i'll post up some pics, but stupid me forgot to take pics of the engine. the car was only driving in rear wheel drive though.

by the way does any one know any places in lansvale sydney that does compression and leak down test's and how much do they usually cost??

sorry about the quality they were taken from my phone.

Cheers

anthony

post-18265-1170229675.jpg

post-18265-1170229768.jpg

post-18265-1170229807.jpg

post-18265-1170229867.jpg

post-18265-1170230019.jpg

looks quite tidy

get an inspection from a known skyline focused workshop which would include a compression test

(uas and croydon are just 2 in syd , plenty more)

if it gets good comp figures and theres no rust or accident damage then might be solid bargain

so there arnt any engine canges as in fixing weak points etc? I am looking at buying a white 32 94 model gtr vspec with brembos etc.

late model 32 changes , but none vspec specific if thats what you mean?

Edited by arkon
So really any gtr from 92 upwards is fairly good depending on condition.

I'd say more in the August 1993 and onwards :sleep:, thats when they started the Vspecs anyway.

Mine is an August 1993 model but not a Vspec, although it had an N1 ECU so maybe it was just a trial or end of a run model.

Car looks good mate

engine bay looks cleaned up for sale, whats with the FPR and why was it changed.how come the cam cover is not polished, but over all a leak down test would make me sleep better at night if i was buying it..

The fuel pressure reg is in the car cause the car still has standard injectors

and the cam cover is cromed as well.

Cheers

anthony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
×
×
  • Create New...