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Good idea to start with a stockish car, prefferable is totally stock.

how much power will that make??

GTR's can be a mixed bag in terms of the power they make in that form, if the boost restrictor is taken out they make enough power to go low 12's over the 1/4 driven well.

what is standard boost??

7-8psi

what after market computers are good for this car and is micro tech a chance?

Power FC. And yes but, no. Not unless you are stuck with a tuner who only knows microtech.

how much does it cost to but and then install and how much is the tune??

Less than $1500 for the Power FC and $300 a tune, they are a plug in so sweet bugger all installing them, 10 min job.

what are other relitivlly inexpensive way's of making power out of these cars after the computer is changed??

Relative to what?

and what boost can i safely run on the standard turbo's

14psi

and any other information you can give me will be great.

Searching is your friend.

And i tried to search GTR but nothing useful came up

Your kidding aren't you?

The plenum paint thing isn't worth looking at too hard, it's not going to tell you anything meaningfull. My old GTR had no paint missing , not a scratch. 240,000kms into it's life, people were just carefull about brake fluid no doubt.

Like any car have it checked out all over by an experienced GTR mechanic/workshop prior to handing over cash. It may save you many times the checkup amount in hidden issues discovered early.

Big tip: ***** Performance cars cost money to own******

- anyone telling you different is a dumb-ass, we were all one of those once.

- the more it performs the money it costs to own. A GTR has a lovely driving experience to offer, and the ride costs what it should. It's expensive but, really you get a bargain for what it does.

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Welcome to hell!

I'm sure you will enjoy it tho!

you should also start a savings account for your gtr ownership.

jesus now you guys are starting to scare me

i've owned 4 turbo cars all up and all had there fair share of problems but is the GTR really that much worse??

Cheers

anthony

jesus now you guys are starting to scare me

i've owned 4 turbo cars all up and all had there fair share of problems but is the GTR really that much worse??

Cheers

anthony

Worse? No. Not at all. Infact quite the opposite. They are as well engineered & built as any performance car you will find. Make sure the car you are buying is in good condition & has been looked after. Then look after it yourself. Infact treat it in the same manner that you would wish the seller treated it. Maintain it, drive it sensibly & you will have years of fun ahead of you.....

You're doomed... no way can you look at any GTR and not go... wow.. I want it.

I can't see how you'll walk away from it without buying it.

Oh and I've owned 5 turbo cars. Including an 32 GTR... yes.. they are a money pit. Different league to other turbo cars in performance and required affection.

You're doomed... no way can you look at any GTR and not go... wow.. I want it.

I can't see how you'll walk away from it without buying it.

Oh and I've owned 5 turbo cars. Including an 32 GTR... yes.. they are a money pit. Different league to other turbo cars in performance and required affection.

you bastards i'm going to buy a laser now.

jesus now you guys are starting to scare me

i've owned 4 turbo cars all up and all had there fair share of problems but is the GTR really that much worse??

Cheers

anthony

dont get me wrong i love my car

i have around 600hp motor in mine.

and yeah as mentioned before when modified they cost a fair bit to maintain. as goes with anything of the like!

i'm sure a standard one will be fine! they do have problems but that depends on your intentions and use for the car. you will only come across problems when you start pushing the car! or if its been pushed before. which in no doubt a gtr will have! they are not your ideal go to the shops kinda car! they are built for racing! and i beleive they love it!

is it the one for 16k in the FS section,...?

hmm if u are soo concerned dont buy one.. i havent heard of an engine going just cause of daily driving.. give it one or two blips and she wont go.. she starts to feel strain when u heat her up too much. when u start to see ur oil temp go up on the guage then u knw ur sending them turbos into hyperspace. back off if ur scared..

to be honest even though i have full faith in my turbos cause of its condition and being steel. i never give it any when the oil temp is above the line after 70 (quarter mark).. other owners knw what im talkin about. normally it will sit below that line..

is that the same for u guys..? it sits below the quarter mark on the oil temp?

those increments are 20 degrees, therefore 90 degrees is the mark that you say youre not going past which is good. My oil temp has never been over that mark

My original turbos are still going strong after 17 years on 14 psi. Just take care of them.

I only boost the car once the oil temp is above 70 degrees which is enough time to also make sure the oil pressure is correct and that the ceramic wheels have had enough time to heat up so theyre not as brittle as when cold.

If you look after things, they will last

Having said that, you dont know what life the car has lived previously. I bought my car knowing full well that at some stage i was gonna get a rebuild and some new turbos. The longer i can prevent the expenditure the better for me :wave:

those increments are 20 degrees, therefore 90 degrees is the mark that you say youre not going past which is good. My oil temp has never been over that mark

My original turbos are still going strong after 17 years on 14 psi. Just take care of them.

I only boost the car once the oil temp is above 70 degrees which is enough time to also make sure the oil pressure is correct and that the ceramic wheels have had enough time to heat up so theyre not as brittle as when cold.

If you look after things, they will last

Having said that, you dont know what life the car has lived previously. I bought my car knowing full well that at some stage i was gonna get a rebuild and some new turbos. The longer i can prevent the expenditure the better for me :huh:

thank you for that. so im running 90degrees all the time. thats correct sometime fluxuates above.. :wave: but hasnt been anywher near the half way. its been halfway between the 90 and halfway mark. what degrees is that?

and i dnt boost without the guage being over the first line. dont even drive it without the needle moving lol..

thanks bud

hey guys im currently looking for a 32 gtr 92 - 94 model. Whats the difference between 92 - 94 vspec? i know its just the age but what else? iv found a few vspecs for 20 - 23 grand and alot of 90 - 92's for 16 to 18 grand from japan.

the late neration R32 GTR get the R33 motor. or similar bits to it. as in better oil pump.. and a baffle but not deffently sure on that :wave:.

ive seen more R32 Vspecs forsale than V35.. which makes u think if they are genuine Vspecs.

bsides the vspec isnt realy too much better. only suspension and brakes and cosmetic styling.

engine and cams are the same despite what ppl say.

hey guys im currently looking for a 32 gtr 92 - 94 model. Whats the difference between 92 - 94 vspec? i know its just the age but what else? iv found a few vspecs for 20 - 23 grand and alot of 90 - 92's for 16 to 18 grand from japan.

do you mean difference between the base model and vspec model or the diff between a 92 and 94 vspec ?

differences to base model are

faster atessa pro 4wd computer

brembos

17in bbs mesh rims

harder suspension

sticker on the back

many people think the vspecs 32 will be collectable as only 3000 were made . there were quite a lot more 33 vspecs

i dont know the difference between vpsec's in different years if there is any , i dont think there is . I have read that the rb26 in the 94s has some changes that appear in the 33 rb26 but their minor and that would apply to all 94s

thank you for that. so im running 90degrees all the time. thats correct sometime fluxuates above.. :P but hasnt been anywher near the half way. its been halfway between the 90 and halfway mark. what degrees is that?

and i dnt boost without the guage being over the first line. dont even drive it without the needle moving lol..

thanks bud

that would be 100 degrees celcius >_<

if the 4 wheel drive isn't working what other problems are there like is it connected to the HICAS or to the power steering or ABS or somthing and how easy is it to fix at the moment it's only running on rear wheel drive.

any one know the answer to this??

Cheers

anthony

if the 4 wheel drive isn't working what other problems are there like is it connected to the HICAS or to the power steering or ABS or somthing and how easy is it to fix at the moment it's only running on rear wheel drive.

any one know the answer to this??

Cheers

anthony

Start the car.

The warning light for the system will come on if it isn't working.

Open the boot & stick your head in there. Under the parcel shelf on the passengers side is the ATTESSA module. It will flash a number of times & then take a rest. Count the number of flashes.

Then you can look it up in the manual, or simply post it & someone will doubtless look it up for you.

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