Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just wondering if anybody has any tips / tricks in cleaning the shit off that the head gasket leaves caked behind on the block/head.. don't really want to use anything too abrasive and scratch the surfaces, i was thinking more along the lines of decent solvents? any ideas?

cheers guys,

mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153891-gasket-removal/
Share on other sites

i have a can of spray gasket stripper that i have used with a scotch brite pad, you can buy little cleaning pads for use with die grinders that have a scotch brite material on them as well

start off with a razor blade, then try the pads

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153891-gasket-removal/#findComment-2861865
Share on other sites

I use a piece of copper pipe bashed flat at one end and filed sharp. A strip of soft alloy will do the same. It's softer than the block metal and so doesn't scratch it. But gasket stripper, petrol or thinners are good for the close clean up, I always finish with a soft linish and thinners to get it uber clean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153891-gasket-removal/#findComment-2861898
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...