Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Very nice power output. Also my primary long term target & no doubt would hit 300 on a cooler day.

im not concerned at not hitting 300 in the slightest..

its only a matter of changing the boost up another 2 psi and i will be back up to 320rwkw

simple...

but i asked shaun for a strong everyday tune thats why we left it where it is now.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im not concerned at not hitting 300 in the slightest..

its only a matter of changing the boost up another 2 psi and i will be back up to 320rwkw

simple...

but i asked shaun for a strong everyday tune thats why we left it where it is now.

Yeah absolutely. 0.1KW extra is hardly gonna be noticeable when ur cruising the 'burbs. Right now I'd be very happy with 200KW, but of course that will only last so long....

Edited by JazzaR33
Yeah absolutely. 0.1KW extra is hardly gonna be noticeable when ur cruising the 'burbs. Right now I'd be very happy with 200KW, but of course that will only last so long....

anything past 260 rwkw's is next to useless with the auto anyway.

If i hit the go pedal in first as you come on boost it spins the wheels hits 7000rpm changes into second hits 7000 rpm changes into drive hits 7000 rpm then changes into overdrive...

1st gear to get any sort of traction i MUST stay below half throttle, second gear is about 2/3rd throttle so i cant really plant it until im doing over 100klms, then i back of at 110!

so whats the point?

Hmmm would a better suspension setup help with traction?? just a random thought...

Sounds like its time to buy a Stagea and transfer your mods across...now THAT would be quick!!

A little extra weight, but your traction issues would disappear >_<

Nice result however...

can i be your wife :thumbsup::laugh::huh:

lol 299RWKW the kids must love being taken to school in that i know my daughter loves mine and i sometimes hear boys say thats a skyline

'it sure is jimmy, it sure is'

you betta have plenty of beer and a singing Elvis!!!

You need to change the diff gears by the sounds of it,

mine did exactly the same with 4.11's, went to 3.45's and problem

solved, even with 370rwkw on shauns dyno.

cheers

darren

hmm mines the standard r33 auto sedan so guessing 4.3's

where can i get somthing in the low 3 range? that would be heaps better.

what other diffs with 3 ? ratio will bolt into the r33 gtst?

cheers

Im pretty sure certain models of s13 silvias had either 3.7 or 3.9 diffs, not sure which was auto or manual.

Theres defintly a 3.9 ratio you can get for the R200's, and i am pretty sure you can get 3.7's.

I think silvia autos had 4.44's and manuals had 4.11's, i'm no R200/180 guru though.

If you have 4.3's, that would be bloody horrible, 3.7's would be the pick of the bunch if you get them,

Mines a aus R31, so i just got the gears out of a vl.

cheers

darren

The S13 180 SR20DET's manuals ran with 3.9's.

47 teeth ring gear, 12 teeth pinion.

The Q45 Infinity R200 VLSD runs a 3.7 ratio.

Whats also interesting is the Q45 run the same larger GTR 31spline GTR 6 bolt (1x6) axles.

so what are you telling me?

what do i need from a q45 infinity to run the 3.7 in my 33?

is it just the centre? or do i need to change axles etc.

thanks heaps for the info!

You have a few choices...

1. Use your pumpkin, center, half shafts and axles.

Grab the crown and pinion from the Q45 lsd and drop them in to yours. You'll have to get the backlash etc setup so thats more $$.

2. Use the Q45 Pumpkin, q45 half shafts with a set of GTR axles.

Grab the whole pumpkin (from memory they run the same front pumpkin mounts as the R33) and bolt it in with a set of GTR axles and hubs for stronger arse end. Still more $$ but not wasted on setting up backlash but rather a set of nice fat splines.

3. Use the Q45 Pumpkin with your existing Axles and half shafts.

Grab the whole pumpkin, rip the center out, pull it apart and drop in the guts from your origional lsd (viscus hub, spider gears etc) and bolt it together and not have to worry about setting up the backlash as you haven't played with swapping the actual centers. 'Shouldn't' cost you any more than the cost of the q45 pumpkin.

Did you follow that last one? Not sure if I was too clear. :P

The idea of the last one is you need to swap the spider gears and vlsd hub around as the q45/gtr's run a bigger more spliney half shaft. Using your origional spider gears and viscus hub you can simply slide in your existing 5 bolt half shafts

Obviously with the usual R200 swaps you'll have to use the backplate off your existing diff.

You'll also have to double check the front mounts. I'm certian they looked the same as the 33 pumpkin.

Thats if you want to retain the vlsd. It should still be in fairly good nick.

The 300ZX diffs are an R230. 230mm so a 9" diff.

They are tough as but unfortunately they don't bolt up. The 300zx diff's from memory are a 3.69 ratio and run the same chunky axles as the gtr/q45's.

In the SA section there's a stickied wrecker listing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=123889

Ring every wrecker and see what they can do a pumpkin for.

The going price is generally around the $250-$300 mark. 'SOME" absolutely rip people off.

A good example is D1 garage.. $500 for a GTR Pumpkin, another *won't name publicly* wants $500 for a VLSD S13 pumpkin. :S

So ring around, some may also be able to supply just the ring and pinion depending on which way you want to go.

You may be able to pick one up for cheaper over at www.nissansilvia.com, remember to double check the ratio either way.

Simply pop the rear cover off, on the crown wheel there should be stamped something along the lines of 47:12 with a few other numbers. Simply divide 47 by 12 to give you your ratio.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
×
×
  • Create New...