Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My headlights seem to be pointing more or less straight into the ground. Meaning I can see nothing more than about 1m in front of my car. It's starting to bug me. A mate of mine reckoned you could adjust the position of the lights, which I assume is why they are pointing into the ground not out in front of me. Can you adjust the R32 headlight angles? If so how? If you can't is there anyway I can resolve this issue? I want to get HIDs at some stage and there seems to be little point if my lights arent actually going to be doing their job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154136-adjusting-r32-headlights/
Share on other sites

I have this same problem, my lights point very far down. I've seen in the GTR manual you are able to adjust them. but the picture isn't very clear and I cant see what has to be adjusted. could someone post a picture for us? Would be a great help. Cheers

You sure can adjust them. It's very easy. There is one bolt for adjusting height and one for adjusting left right. Take a look behind the headlight.

On the r33, it's an 8mm head.

There's not a lot of space, so you'll need to use either a 1/4 drive mini ratchet and extension or a spanner

You just turn it and watch which way it goes.

PS: r32 headlights are really really bad. Everyone always winges about them, so adjusting it might extend the range, but there isn't physically a lot of light, so by pointing it further, it'll be less bright in the area that it does shine

sorry for the late reply - internet at home stopped working :D

anyways here they are (both pics are for the RHS light but its the same on the other side)

there are 2 screws - one for up&down and one for left&right:

(cant remember which is which but it is obvious once you start tunring - haha)

post-31383-1170479155.jpg

post-31383-1170479177.jpg

post-31383-1170479202.jpg

(note the second one has those lil plastic gears inside - one of mine were f$%ked so had to open it like in that last pic and wind it manually)

cheers zennon.. big help.. mines like that too winding the height does nothing so my gears must be broken too.. ive just installed hid headlights on my r32 projectors.. looks very nice and so much more clearer using standard r32 wiring! highly recommended

is it hard getting the lower screw off the housing? not much room there

cheers zennon.. big help.. mines like that too winding the height does nothing so my gears must be broken too.. ive just installed hid headlights on my r32 projectors.. looks very nice and so much more clearer using standard r32 wiring! highly recommended

is it hard getting the lower screw off the housing? not much room there

Hey mate post pics of the HIDs. I'm keen to see how they look. Which brand of HID did u go for?

ZENNON, the adjustment that has the gears does NOT adjust height... the height screw is located towards the underside of the projector.. it looks exactly like the horizontal adjustment screw... im assuming the adjustment via the screw that has the gears is for focus.. but winding mine all the way left and right does not focus anything.. its gotta do something..

here is a pic of my hids... the photo does not do justice to how they really look at night.. more purple/white as i have the 8000k colour temperature hids.

post-26919-1170936713.jpg

ZENNON, the adjustment that has the gears does NOT adjust height... the height screw is located towards the underside of the projector.. it looks exactly like the horizontal adjustment screw... im assuming the adjustment via the screw that has the gears is for focus.. but winding mine all the way left and right does not focus anything.. its gotta do something..

here is a pic of my hids... the photo does not do justice to how they really look at night.. more purple/white as i have the 8000k colour temperature hids.

The one with the gears adjust the highbeams. I think it adjusts it up and down.

Cheers

hey sky20det, as patto1234 said what HID globes did you get? They do look heaps better than the stock globes.

i got 8000k colour temperature lights from a friend who got them overseas. if u really want a set i might be able to hook u up... 32w, 8000k H3 hid xenon lights. note the r32 projectors take H3C globes but as most will know, the H3C and H3 are the exact same shape and base, thus making it perfect to use H3 HID globes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
×
×
  • Create New...