R33 Rb30 Conversion

[MonstaS4]

I have the SB8006A which is a GT30 with 0.82 Exh.

Compressor specs

0.70 A/R

64 Trim

GT40 wheel

2.41/3.22 wheel diameter

550Hp

65 lbs per min. flow

Turbine specs

0.82 A/R

84 Trim wheel

2.16/2.36 wheel diameter

Mounted on the factory manifold with an adapter for the 45mm progate.

Should be VERY responsive! [Cue evil grin]

Only need to make a desicion on ECU, then in it goes :whackit:

[Cubes]

What is it going in?

[YO880]

it is going into a Datsun 240K, hence why i am getting all the parts as i go (i am starting out from scratch).

so i basically have the rb25de and loom, rb30 bottom, want to add a turbo, and need to know what computer to get to run it with

[Cubes]

I would go the AP PowerFC. It will work with the rb25de loom.

The only thing that may be missing is knock sensors. You will have to check that one out.

Apart from that the RB25DE has everything

[MonstaS4]

Would you also need an AFM with the PowerFC?

[YO880]

so the RB20DET AP Engineering PowerFC will fit the RB25DE loom? phew! what extra wires / sensors would i need to run for the turbo (if any?)

thanks joel

AFAIK, the D-Jetro version of the PowerFC allows you to use MAF, instead of AFM, not sure what engines it covers though (or what you need to add to it) http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/electron...p#apengineering

[Cubes]

Yer it will run.. As said only one or two things missing (knock sensor & unsure if n/a have the map sensor up near the powerbooster)

If you need a copy of the R32 Engine manual drop me a pm and i'll give you a link to dload it.

Its got wiring diagrams in there from memory and that should show the exact differences.

Its not difficult to run a few wires from any extra's.

Rb20DET loom is obviously the best choice but there is no problems with the rb25de loom.

[Sydneykid]

  YO880 said:

as far as i know, it doesn't have vct anyway (well, atleast i can't seem to find anything that indicates it is vct)

using the Rb20det AP eng. PFC, that would mean i would also need to go low impedence injectors? (GTR ones, meaning replacing the fuel rail for top feed too?)

damn.. and after a 2 month search for an RB25DE loom

would i have the option of using an RB25DET computer? or are the looms (and sensors) completely different (if so what is the difference?), and the lack of vct too much?

*R32 RB25DE has no VVT, R33 RB25DE has VVT.

*The RB20det APE PFC runs the standard RB20DET injectors which are high impedance (13-14 ohms).

*Match the loom, the sensors and the ECU and you won't have any problems.

*It doesn't matter if you use a VVT ECU with an engine that doesn't have VVT. Just make sure you use the same model loom, sensors and ECU

*We have an R32 GTST loom, sensors and ECU on an RB31DET with RB26 top end. I just made sure I used the same model loom, sensors and ECU.

Got it?

[Guilt-Toy]

running in my rb30det... ohh how i love MY and RB30DET on the same line a bit way too much heheheheee

Would labouring the engine to bed the rings in be bad? or good? i hear conflicting storys about this.

Im using valvoline running in oil

[Cubes]

That depends on what your definition of what labouring is.

Just drive around with your foot down, be sure not to rev too high though.

Labouring is trying to take off in third or pulling out of a corner doing 20km/h in fourth.

Labouring is always bad for motors (car shudders and won't accelerate)

[Guilt-Toy]

yeah well this beast can go up hills at 40ks an hour in 5th gear with no troubles..

[predator]

... and you'd want to do this because?

[iainous]

Hey, ive got a question about the power fc for the RB20DET, on the greenline motorsports site its says for use with low impendance injectors only, is this correct? and if so do you still have to use a resistor with the low impendance ones? Im currently building an RB30 and ive got a power fc on the way but dont want to buy injectors till im positive they are the right ones.

Thanx

GO DA RB30DET

[R31 POWER]

Well R32 RB20det's have high impendance injectors so they have made a mistake.

I have low impendance injectors(R33 GTR one's)with the resister pack running with the PFC fine.

[drunkenmaster]

"search this thread" function does not seem to be working, it runs off into a complete forum search so forgive me if this has been covered.

With the discussion about getting cars engineered, has anyone successfully done this with an RB30DET as these are not a production motor and do not have a production ECU, so cannot have approved emissions tests.

Thanks

[Sydneykid]

  drunkenmaster said:

"search this thread" function does not seem to be working, it runs off into a complete forum search so forgive me if this has been covered.

With the discussion about getting cars engineered, has anyone successfully done this with an RB30DET as these are not a production motor and do not have a production ECU, so cannot have approved emissions tests.

Thanks

I saw an RB30DET with an RB20DET engine number the other day, well well. :headspin:

I guess it's OK, when you buy a new block from Nissan, it comes with no engine number. The idea being that you put the engine number off the old, damaged block onto the new one.

PS; Just don't forget to machine off the RB30 cast into the side of the block.

[Guilt-Toy]

  Sydneykid said:

I saw an RB30DET with an RB20DET engine number the other day, well well. :headspin:  

I guess it's OK, when you buy a new block from Nissan, it comes with no engine number.  The idea being that you put the engine number off the old, damaged  block onto the new one.

PS; Just don't forget to machine off the RB30 cast into the side of the block.

are there ways of telling that an engine has been restamped? i heard that changing engine numbers if fraud and you just dont do it.

Dont the EPA have a blue light or something that can bring up the original engine number if its been re-stamped? then they bust your arse?

[Sydneykid]

  Guilt-Toy said:

are there ways of telling that an engine has been restamped?  i heard that changing engine numbers if fraud and you just dont do it.

Dont the EPA have a blue light or something that can bring up the original engine number if its been re-stamped?  then they bust your arse?

A changed engine number is sometimes easily detected, while an altered chassis number is usually very easy to detect. When the numbers are originally stamped they obviously show on the surface, but they also deform the metal underneath quite deeply. The ultra violet and dye methods show up this deformation, despite what is restamped on top of it. It is good technology and has caught out a lot of car thieves. Hooray for that, hang the b'tards I say. :Bang: It is very effective on cut and shut and altered chassis numbers, but sometimes not so good on engine numbers.

It really depends on how much is machined off the number stamping area. Chassis number are stamped on fairly thin surfaces, in fact you can see the numbers from the other side on many cars. This is not so with engine blocks as the area is quite thick. In addition, aluminium blocks show engine number changes much better that cast iron ones as they are softer and the stamping therefore goes deeper.

But new engine blocks don't have any numbers, so there is no "original number" to bring up. Stamping of damaged block numbers on replacement blocks is of course completely legal, otherwise Nissan (and the other manufacturers) would not be able to sell new blank blocks.

Hope that is of some help.

[NickR33]

hi guys...

I have a suspected, stuffed big end bearing in my RB25DET.

I'm keen to rebuild it and from reading this very informative thread I'm convinced that replacing the bottom end with the RB30 is the way to go.

What is the best way to tell if the head has sustained any damage without paying $$$ to have the motor stripped down?

As I do not have the time or expertise to do the labour myself and would be getting my workshop to do the work how much would I expect the labour to set me back, ballpark (including all the machining of parts etc)?

Am I correct in understanding that I will only require the standard RB30DE rods and pistons as my motor is running the stock turbo and I can't see myself wanting to uprgrade over the 250rwkw mark (for the next year or 2 at least)

So the only major parts costs will be the RB30 rods, pistons, block + crank and probably a PowerFC to run it?

Would the result be a more reliable package than going with a late series 2, low mileage, R33 RB25DET and just dropping it in?

Sorry for the boring questions, just my motor gave up on me at stock boost, driving at 50km/h in traffic, lightly modded, and been well looked after by me with little abuse...so I am a little paranoid:/

[Sydneykid]

  NickR33 said:

hi guys...

I have a suspected, stuffed big end bearing in my RB25DET.

I'm keen to rebuild it and from reading this very informative thread I'm convinced that replacing the bottom end with the RB30 is the way to go.

What is the best way to tell if the head has sustained any damage without paying $$$ to have the motor stripped down?

As I do not have the time or expertise to do the labour myself and would be getting my workshop to do the work how much would I expect the labour to set me back, ballpark (including all the machining of parts etc)?

Am I correct in understanding that I will only require the standard RB30DE rods and pistons as my motor is running the stock turbo and I can't see myself wanting to uprgrade over the 250rwkw mark (for the next year or 2 at least)

So the only major parts costs will be the RB30 rods, pistons, block + crank and probably a PowerFC to run it?

Would the result be a more reliable package than going with a late series 2, low mileage, R33 RB25DET and just dropping it in?

Sorry for the boring questions, just my motor gave up on me at stock boost, driving at 50km/h in traffic, lightly modded, and been well looked after by me with little abuse...so I am a little paranoid:/

If what you are saying is correct, it is hardley likely to be a big end bearing. RB's do not run big end bearings for no good reason. Oil starvation, poor oil quality or poor maintenance are the causes of big end bearing failure and you describe none of these. I would strongly suggest a re-diagnosis.