R33 Rb30 Conversion

[StockyMcStock]

yep. i agree.

also the XR6T job appears to be the goods for RB30's, never seen/heard of one on a 30DET though. would probably be just the right mix of torque curve and response. either way, i think you'll still be limited by traction no matter which turbo you go with.

[Bl4cK32]

Anyone thought of putting something really big on, like say a GT40 or a T88?...

No issues with offboost for me, just how much the top end will hit in with my gt35r

Im selling my bike to get this thing tuned with my turbo, and id just like to add :

Damn all of you, you make me want to spend more money to get this car finished

[StockyMcStock]

with a forged bottom end with a good quench setup, large boost from a huge turbo with (conversely) lots of lag and a properly balanced crank (can't over-emphasise this point!) you're looking at 700-odd horsepower at the rears wheels at peak power. pretty much only good for a drag car, but nevertheless a very cheap way to build an 800-900 horsepower engine. cubes + boost + good head flow = fantastic power

[Bl4cK32]

Might be worth a go if i blow my forged bottom now *touch wood*, ill drop in a std bottom end, bolt on a head, and see how long it'll last

[Mr_RB25DET]

Wat do you guyz say if I am building up a RB26/30 with the following setup :

272 Deg Int/Exh Trust Camshaft + Trust valve spring + Arias forged piston + Crower Conrods + ARP bolts kits + Original Nissan bearings + JUN High flow oil pump + Trust intake plenum + 850cc injectors + Q45 90mm trottle body + HKS Stainless Exh manifold + custom GTA51R (HKS T51R spec) + Haltech E6K + etc.... but standard crankshaft hmmm ...

Will this thing works ? Can the engine withstand the power ? Any Advices ?

[Cubes]

If I were to build a really high hp motor to last as long as possible.

Use as little RPM as possible and attempt to get my hands on a bran spankin new block.

For the power you are chasing choose a turbo and cam duration combination that will make peak power around 7000rpm.

Grab the highest lift cam possible for the duration selected.

Forged rods & pistons.

Tidy up the head, s/steel valves, valve springs, nice inlet manifold & plenum.

Tuned length exhaust manifold (to keep what reversion there is equal across cylinders)

Motec M600 or M800 ECU

I would then concentrate on stiffening up the block.

Stiffer sump, crank girdle etc.

I probably wouldn't use stock Nissan bearings either. Not for 700-800+hp.

Thats my dream.

[Mr_RB25DET]

Thanks Cubes... Go & Chase for your dreamzzzz.......

Wats rpm limits should you guyz recons if I am using a standard crankshaft but forgie pistons + conrods + aftermarket bearings (any idea's wat bearing brand available & where to get) ?

I am dreaming of building-up street/drag 700-800+hp machine. what type of turbo setup should I go for ? I think GTA51R setup is not suitable for too much lag since RB30 rpm rev are limited.

[discopotato03]

GT40R's and GT42R's would probably make the power with less cost and better response , those HKS T51's I think need spanky V Band clamp mounting hardware just to be different .

[Alf]

Wat do you guyz say if I am building up a RB26/30 with the following setup :

272 Deg Int/Exh Trust Camshaft + Trust valve spring + Arias forged piston + Crower Conrods + ARP bolts kits + Original Nissan bearings + JUN High flow oil pump + Trust intake plenum + 850cc injectors + Q45 90mm trottle body + HKS Stainless Exh manifold + custom GTA51R (HKS T51R spec) + Haltech E6K + etc.... but standard crankshaft hmmm ...

Will this thing works ? Can the engine withstand the power ? Any Advices ?

The standard crankshaft should cope as long as it has been checked and prepped prior to install.

I say you are one crazy mofo, u must love alot of wheelspin :headbang:

I'd prefer twins for better repsonse and driveability.

[RB30-POWER]

For anyone thinking/dreaming od making some high powered RB30 this thread is worth a read its quite a few pages, but some real useful info. Specifically note "700hp" comments.

One primary thing to note in particular is how critical a Gibson Motorsport Harmonic Balancer is if your going to rev the RB30 over 6600rpm or thereabouts.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...46&page=1&pp=30

[Cubes]

That harmonic balancer may be required if running a rb30 harmonic balancer.

Is it still required if one is using the RB20/25/26 Harmonic balancer that has been designed for high rev's?

RIPS claim they have no issues with harmonics at the 6600rpm or 7500rpm claims floating around.

This is why the skyline RB26 block is de-stroked to 2.6L - to enable it to survive at higher RPM. Trust me, I've tried this myself (as has Ben Visconte), and the first sign of danger is broken oil-pump drive gears at 7000RPM.

RB26's also suffer the oil pump drive gear breakage. Nissan fixed the problem with their R33 GTR's and R33 Series 2 Rb25DET. It comes down to age and such high pressure on a little surface area.

I think it comes down to if you are making shiet loads of power you have to stiffen up the bottom end. Be it a combination of crank girdle & sump.

[RB30-POWER]

That harmonic balancer may be required if running a rb30 harmonic balancer.

 

Is it still required if one is using the RB20/25/26 Harmonic balancer that has been designed for high rev's?

If you go look back through Brett's (700hp) posts on ct.com.au there is heaps of info, he use to have a website, but it must have been taken down.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=12784

This guy has learnt alot from not only blowing a few motors, but from getting assistance from a few workshops that have tuned/built some big power RB30's.

Some more interesting reading here to about the bearings that he used.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...64&page=1&pp=30

Its great to read about high power motors, because i could never afford to do it myself. Well not risk a motor by pushing its limits that cost a fortune anyway...

[Cubes]

Well, it didn't "break" break. It just got "hurt" on the dyno. Scored bores and some crank scoring.

Cause was not quite enough piston-to-bore clearance, therefore causing a problem when the engine became hot & bothered & the pistons began to expand at a greater rate than the block - hence clearance problem. A light hone & some new rings fixed that problem.

Problem #2 was crap bearings - aluminium-tin tri-metal bearings were never going to cop the power I was trying to make. So a new crank and some copper-lead bearings - and all is beaut!

and then...

I was using King bearings.

My engine builder sourced the new bearings - not sure whether he got them through ACL direct, or through a dealer.

Tri-metal bearings?!??! King bearings are bi-metal.

Does this mean he went the King bearings the second time around or didn't really know what was being used? It seems like he was a little un-informed.

Reason I ask is I am running King bearings, at the time of my build there was a VLT making 700hp next door, it was running the exact king bearings, wiseco forged pistons and modified crank girdle. It didn't have any issues with bearings.

Previously it did have previous issues with the std nissan bearings.

700HP's first build may have been a slap together build, by the sounds of it anyway.

Hence

Cause was not quite enough piston-to-bore clearance

If the piston to bore clearance was overlooked what else was? Does make one wonder.

King bearings requiring a slightly different clearance setup maybe it was simply setup incorrectly.

I suppose it may have came down to using a product that the builder usually doesn't use.

Setting up the clearance with the assumption of one product will perform like another at that clearance.

[Cubes]

lol, King do make a tri-metal.

Product Code CP

Copper-Lead on Steel with .001" Copper-Lead-Tin Overplate (Tri-metal bearing)

I used the HP Bi-metals as that is where recommended for high performance.

[gtst25]

Gidday cubes,

Just wondering how the rb20 g/box is handling things?

Reason I ask is when in AUS last I helped dad put a new clutch into his r31 with rb running gear.

Decided while it was apart to pull the rear of the box apart and check out the nuts which hold the shaft assembly together.

Sure enough they were loose - all we did was tighten and it's feels like a new box - took all the end float out of second - amasing difference.

Not too big a job either - would do it in a day easy.

Cheers

[Cubes]

rb20t box appears to be holding it with no problems so far.

However, after a long drive it does tend to get a little noisy in fourth.

Neutral has the usual input (I assume) shaft bearing noise.

Apart from that there is no on and off throttle slack in the box.

[TTT]

just had a look at that video...

the way you come on boost..

that's just not right man....

I hear engine, engine, engine.. then SNAP, boost comes on crazy like.

at about 48 seconds on the video..

[Cubes]

EDIT: yer I noticed the glitch in the vid around that mark. Its like it skips a few frame. Maybe hiding the laag heeh nar. .I don't think its that laggy.

[VIPERGTSR01]

Ive just blown my motor in R33 GTS25t and im looking at doing a RB30DET conversion, anyone in South Australia doing these motors, or do I have to do it myself?

Sorry if this has been mentioned before Its hard to find specific info in a 97 page thread.

[Cubes]

Please, No more RB30DET's in South Australia..

Give Shaun @ Boostworx a buzz, he sorted my engine mounts.

He may be interestered in doing a motor.

82990621

Consider grabbing an aftermarket plenum if you don't want to lower the engine. Which you really don't want to.

Or sell yours and buy a Rb26DETT head and plenum.