R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Bl4cK32]

I used the rb20det pump out of mine, and its sits over 4 on cold (5 on the oil pressure gauge), cruise is 2, and warm sees 6 (nudging 7 as cubes said)....

Only difference between mine and his is the cold start pressure i believe...

[benl1981]

Would a new RB30E pump not do the job??

THanks

[Cubes]

I wouldn't risk it. Not for the price of a second hand RB25DET or even RB20DET pump.

RB30E flows less oil and has less oil pressure. That higher oil pressure will be required for a motor that rev's higher.

[tweak]

has anyone got a pic of the inside of a rb25det oil pump?

i got a brand new one here and just want to confirm that it is one.

thanks

[benl1981]

Thanks cubes. Handy to know

[Cubes]

Pump Pics.

First 2 are RB25DET pump,

Second 2 are RB30ET pump.

[tweak]

thanks very very much cube's.

i bought the pump as it was advertised as a brand new vl turbo pump.

but when i got my old vlt one to compare,i found they are completely different internals.

wasnt happy.

but looks like the pump i got is an rb25det one.

anyone want to buy it?

hehe

[platinum]

Just trying to finalise a few parts for my conversion - sorry if these have been answered somewhere else, I did search!

- What is the difference between series 1 and series 2 rb25DET's ? I'm looking at buying a splitfire ignition system instead of coilpacks and they have a model for each - this is going in a VL with an aftermarket ECU, so is it even applicable? On a similar note, is the wiring loom the same for these series 1 and 2 engines?

- I'm going to be running a powerFC, are they able to be tuned without an AFM? Or does it still rely on that (as far as I can tell it does). If that's the case - what AFM will have enough scope to cover things (engine builder was suggesting a twin AFM arrangement, but that sounds more complicated than it needs to be IMO).

- Can someone explain exactly what has to happen to the block and/or head when fitting an RB25DET head onto the rb30 block, a detailed explaination would be great.

So far I'll be using the stock head, turbo/manifolds (will have the loom + coilpacks), a computer and obviously upgrading any old parts where needed. Is there any hidden items I've missed that I should be budgeting for (not accounting for things like piping, etc)?

Cheers guys - this thread is a life saver

[benl1981]

series 1 have a seperate ignitor module. Wheres series 2 the ignitor is built into each coil.

[Sydneykid]

Just trying to finalise a few parts for my conversion - sorry if these have been answered somewhere else, I did search!

1. What is the difference between series 1 and series 2 rb25DET's ?

2. this is going in a VL with an aftermarket ECU, so is it even applicable?

3. On a similar note, is the wiring loom the same for these series 1 and 2 engines?

4. I'm going to be running a powerFC, are they able to be tuned without an AFM? Or does it still rely on that (as far as I can tell it does).

5. If that's the case - what AFM will have enough scope to cover things (engine builder was suggesting a twin AFM arrangement, but that sounds more complicated than it needs to be IMO).

6. Can someone explain exactly what has to happen to the block and/or head when fitting an RB25DET head onto the rb30 block, a detailed explaination would be great.

7. So far I'll be using the stock head, turbo/manifolds (will have the loom + coilpacks), a computer and obviously upgrading any old parts where needed. Is there any hidden items I've missed that I should be budgeting for (not accounting for things like piping, etc)?

Cheers guys - this thread is a life saver

Much easier if you number you questions;

1. As Ben said S1 has a separate ignitor module, S2 has ignitors built int oeach coil.

2. Chassis is irrelevant, the only thing that matters is the wiring harness, use the coils that go with the wiring harness and the ECU.

3. No

4. No

5. You can use a single Q45 AFM (90 mm), so far good for 420+ rwkw

6. No way, read the thread there are so many choices, pick the one that you like. Read the How to Guide it's simpler/shorter.

7. The list (tick off what you already have). Intercooler, radiator, exhaust, intercooler pipework, power steering, air con, engine mounts, oil cooler, turbo/turbos, turbo water and oil fittings, air filter, AFM to turbo pipework, gaskets, decent sump (wings, one way doors and baffles are best), boost controller, Power FC, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, radiator hoses, belts, water pump, oil pump, clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, diff, brakes, suspension, wheels, tyres, gauges etc etc

Good luck:cheers:

[platinum]

Cheers

2. Chassis is irrelevant, the only thing that matters is the wiring harness, use the coils that go with the wiring harness and the ECU.

I thought the series1/2 differences may not have been related to the actual head itself. My point being, if I used a series 1 loom on a series two engine or vice versa would it work?

5. You can use a single Q45 AFM (90 mm), so far good for 420+ rwkw

Ah great - I'll keep an eye out for one

6. No way, read the thread there are so many choices, pick the one that you like.  Read the How to Guide it's simpler/shorter.

hehe, I've got the how-to guide and it doesn't cover the actual nitty-gritty, just mentioned it has to be 'modified' and has a picture comparing the two blocks. I guess I'll leave that up to the engine builder.

7.  The list (tick off what you already have).  Intercooler, radiator, exhaust, intercooler pipework, power steering, air con, engine mounts, oil cooler, turbo/turbos, turbo water and oil fittings, air filter, AFM to turbo pipework, gaskets, decent sump (wings, one way doors and baffles are best), boost controller, Power FC, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, radiator hoses, belts, water pump, oil pump, clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, diff, brakes, suspension, wheels, tyres, gauges etc etc

lol cheers mate (definatly has wheels and suspension last I checked ) I think I can check off almost everything there, although I do need to replace the oil/water pumps

[Duncan]

yes the s1 and s2 block and head are identical, you can use either loom on either engine

[StockyMcStock]

yes the s1 and s2 block and head are identical, you can use either loom on either engine

you sure? the coilpacks on a S1 have an external ignitor so the loom must be different......

[platinum]

mmm yeah the powerFC's make a different model for series1 and 2 as well it seems.

[Duncan]

you sure? the coilpacks on a S1 have an external ignitor so the loom must be different......

sorry yes the externals are different like coil pack....I mean the actual heads themselves are interchangable. I put a S1 motor into an S2 car using the S2 ignition with no problems

[StockyMcStock]

my bad - didn't read your post correctly. you are right about that, they are exactly the same mechanically

[OFENSV]

got my car tuned today, was abit diapointed with the power, but still pulls hard

need and EBC due to boost dropping from 20 down to 17psi in the top end

[TTT]

yeh man.. 297 rwkw... real dissapointing..

hahahaha

although.... when I go through this whole thing, I was hoping to get that sort of figure on 1 bar boost.

can you do a quick summary of your supporting mods on here please?

[OFENSV]

yeah i was maybe hoping to get closer to 350 but ohwel. with ebc said should be around 315kw.

arias pisons

mild port & polished head (standard cams)

gt35 turbo

50mm ex gate

600cc injectors

wollf 3d

044 pump

custom plenum

[TTT]

I keep comapring all results to Sydney kids original rb30 engine.

475hp on engine dyno, using old t04e and standard everything on 1 bar boost..

anyway.. great results.