Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a few prices on some things, what do you guys think?

Rb30 water pump (silverline) - $80

timing belt (dayco) - $22.95

Rb20 thermostat and housing - $28.95

Rb30 sump gasket $12.50

Just wondering is the brand 'silverline' a good brand of water pump or should i try and source a genuine nissan water pump?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my car ran considerably hotter with an aftermarket than with a genuine nissan. The aftermarket also got stuck open after a while, i changed it back to genuine nissan and havent had a problem with overheating since. I also use the standard clutch fan although people are starting to change to the twin AU thermo's which work well.

Edited by Miz_VL_Turbo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

well i just rang another nissan dealership here in adelaide and they only want $260 for the vrs kit so search me? I also asked them about the thermostat and housing and they've said about $110 for both compared to the $30 i got quoted for the non genuine nissan items, do u guys/gals really think its worth spending the extra $80?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the genuine thermostats. $~50.

They get the car up to operating temp real quick, which equals better fuel economy and less engine wear.

From my observations the aftermarket thermostats react very quickly, in other words it flings right open, and very wide, and shuts really quick.

The genuine tends open not as wide and it does so a little slower, it also closes slowly. If that makes sense.

My sister had overheating issues in her VL Commodore when cruising up Willunga Hill (big arsed many km hill), drop the genuine thermostat in it and its fine.

I suspect the aftermarkets open too much that causes issues with either water flowing too quick or some some how reducing the pumps ability to flow?!?! No idea.. ;)

Grab a decent quality RB30E waterpump that come with a gasket, no need for rb26 n1 items unless it will see lots of the track.

As far as I'm aware there is only a genuine thermostat housing available. Obviously, they are a little pricey. :)

Use the one of your rb20, it should be fine.

Don't forget to change the block heater hose attachments on the rb30 to suit the rb20 setup.

One off the thermostat housing and another at the rear of the block on the drivers side.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, i found an rb30e waterpump, Brand name 'silverline' sounded pretty good for $80 and came with a warranty. I'll keep my thermostat housing from the rb20 as it looks in pretty good nick and i'll just grab a genuine nissan thermostat, better to be safe than sorry!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman?

Stocker for a while or..?

With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. :P

The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop.

The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two.

RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. :)

Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. ;)

I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman?

Stocker for a while or..?

With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. :)

The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop.

The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two.

RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. :D

Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. :O

I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm.

I'm able to get the bb VG30 pretty cheap so thats what i'm looking at pretty much before it gets bolted into the car. I remember you saying with your pissy little turbo that u were getting crappy mileage so i figure if i spend a little on a bigger turbo i'll save while running the car in and waiting for my 35/40 :D

Another noob question, Do you use the rb20/rb25 runners and plenum? I just can't remember what you said a while back!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuel economy isn't too bad, roughly 430kays to 50litres or so.

I am finding it annoying how she snaps on so hard with such little acceleration, you constantly have to be on the ball when trying to accelerate just that little bit harder than limping pace.

The VG30 with its larger turbine housing will be better suited and smoother to drive.

------

Use the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold and RB20DET plenum.

You can use the R32 RB25DE plenum, it lacks the BOV's boost feed, T into the carbon canistors feed.

You will also notice the turbo inlet manifold has a water galley run around the injectors that then feeds in to the turbo water lines around the back of the head. On the n/a inlet manifold this is blocked off. Not too much of a drama, I left mine blocked off. :)

I drove my oldies 100series v8 landcruiser around for a few days this week.

Jumping back in to my car I realised i have a big diff whine. :D

What clutch are you settling on?

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...