MonstaS4 Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 it seems the "search this thread" option is no longer available. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Use the "search topic" function at the bottom of the page B) Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1574192 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 got a few prices on some things, what do you guys think? Rb30 water pump (silverline) - $80 timing belt (dayco) - $22.95 Rb20 thermostat and housing - $28.95 Rb30 sump gasket $12.50 Just wondering is the brand 'silverline' a good brand of water pump or should i try and source a genuine nissan water pump? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1576701 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bl4cK32 Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 all good Make a choice on what thermostat u want, -genuine std .or aftermarket. They differ slightly in the way each holds water temps. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1577162 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 all good Make a choice on what thermostat u want, -genuine std .or aftermarket. They differ slightly in the way each holds water temps. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> what would u recommend? What about the water pump? genuine nissan or won't it really matter? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1577217 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miz_VL_Turbo Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) i have used both aftermarket and genuine thermostats and would recommend the genuine nissan. i have also used various water pumps, i currently have powermax on my car which is fine. Edited September 12, 2005 by Miz_VL_Turbo Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578175 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 i have used both aftermarket and genuine thermostats and would recommend the genuine nissan.i have also used various water pumps, i currently have powermax on my car which is fine. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> why the genuine nissan over the other brands? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578232 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miz_VL_Turbo Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) my car ran considerably hotter with an aftermarket than with a genuine nissan. The aftermarket also got stuck open after a while, i changed it back to genuine nissan and havent had a problem with overheating since. I also use the standard clutch fan although people are starting to change to the twin AU thermo's which work well. Edited September 12, 2005 by Miz_VL_Turbo Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578255 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 ok, thanks for the help. I just got a price of $308 from nissan for the vrs gasket kit for the rb25de, aren't they supposed to be around the $270 mark? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578277 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 well i just rang another nissan dealership here in adelaide and they only want $260 for the vrs kit so search me? I also asked them about the thermostat and housing and they've said about $110 for both compared to the $30 i got quoted for the non genuine nissan items, do u guys/gals really think its worth spending the extra $80? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578315 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) I like the genuine thermostats. $~50. They get the car up to operating temp real quick, which equals better fuel economy and less engine wear. From my observations the aftermarket thermostats react very quickly, in other words it flings right open, and very wide, and shuts really quick. The genuine tends open not as wide and it does so a little slower, it also closes slowly. If that makes sense. My sister had overheating issues in her VL Commodore when cruising up Willunga Hill (big arsed many km hill), drop the genuine thermostat in it and its fine. I suspect the aftermarkets open too much that causes issues with either water flowing too quick or some some how reducing the pumps ability to flow?!?! No idea.. Grab a decent quality RB30E waterpump that come with a gasket, no need for rb26 n1 items unless it will see lots of the track. As far as I'm aware there is only a genuine thermostat housing available. Obviously, they are a little pricey. Use the one of your rb20, it should be fine. Don't forget to change the block heater hose attachments on the rb30 to suit the rb20 setup. One off the thermostat housing and another at the rear of the block on the drivers side. Edited September 12, 2005 by Cubes Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578423 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) so get a genuine 'Nissan' one form a nissan dealership? water pump that is! I think they're about twice as much as getting one from motormate/sprints? Edited September 12, 2005 by mr_rbman Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578443 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) Genuine thermostat. ~$49.95 Aftermarket waterpump. ~$80-$85 Edited September 12, 2005 by Cubes Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578456 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 ok, i found an rb30e waterpump, Brand name 'silverline' sounded pretty good for $80 and came with a warranty. I'll keep my thermostat housing from the rb20 as it looks in pretty good nick and i'll just grab a genuine nissan thermostat, better to be safe than sorry! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1578465 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAD_HUH Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 are the rb25de oil pumps any different to the rb25det oil pump? (s1 r33) Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1581434 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dahtone Racing Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 quick question guys is the R31 RB30E the same as the VL one? in other words can i use a bottom end out of an R31 skyline? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1581450 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 i used the r31 bottom end! Same as the series 2 vl bottom end! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1582738 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 (edited) What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman? Stocker for a while or..? With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop. The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two. RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm. Edited September 14, 2005 by Cubes Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1582781 Share on other sites More sharing options...
discopotato03 Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 Is that the way you'll go Cubes and yes mileage is important to me as well , hence pedalling on loan G11 Charade - true king of three cylinder carby n points terrors ! I can well understand why JE had heaps of fun in the turbo Mira . Beware of the flying flea cheers A . Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1583704 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_rbman Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 What turbo are you bolting on the 3ltr rbman?Stocker for a while or..? With these petrol prices i'm starting to want some lag back.. The 3ltr drops out of closed loop mode so easily, its actually quite hard to accelerate up to speed and keep it in closed loop. The old rb20 would stay in closed loop until it was making a psi or two. RB30 being the rb30 spools 1psi as you let the clutch out at idle. Bolting a XR6turbo is looking attractive. Even if it doesn't get going until 3800rpm or so who cares. I find I don't really use the power under ~3500rpm. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm able to get the bb VG30 pretty cheap so thats what i'm looking at pretty much before it gets bolted into the car. I remember you saying with your pissy little turbo that u were getting crappy mileage so i figure if i spend a little on a bigger turbo i'll save while running the car in and waiting for my 35/40 Another noob question, Do you use the rb20/rb25 runners and plenum? I just can't remember what you said a while back! Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1584426 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubes Posted September 14, 2005 Share Posted September 14, 2005 (edited) Fuel economy isn't too bad, roughly 430kays to 50litres or so. I am finding it annoying how she snaps on so hard with such little acceleration, you constantly have to be on the ball when trying to accelerate just that little bit harder than limping pace. The VG30 with its larger turbine housing will be better suited and smoother to drive. ------ Use the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold and RB20DET plenum. You can use the R32 RB25DE plenum, it lacks the BOV's boost feed, T into the carbon canistors feed. You will also notice the turbo inlet manifold has a water galley run around the injectors that then feeds in to the turbo water lines around the back of the head. On the n/a inlet manifold this is blocked off. Not too much of a drama, I left mine blocked off. I drove my oldies 100series v8 landcruiser around for a few days this week. Jumping back in to my car I realised i have a big diff whine. What clutch are you settling on? Edited September 14, 2005 by Cubes Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/page/122/#findComment-1584465 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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