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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

why is everyone strung up on the damn strut brace.

Make new ends to offset the bar across the engine to clear the tb.

If your building the engine, you have to cut and weld the engine mounts, so whats hard about making new strut ends at the same time??

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

possible issue with making the strut brace higher is that i know my strut brace had rubbing marks on it from the std bonnet.. so i know i wouldn't be able to make the strut brace higher ..

saying that i am hoping i wont have an issue with the plazmaman front facing plenum.

BADR33 Collaborator

BADR33

Posted
Posted

yeah my rb30s now fitted. i didnt need to mod the engine mounts. just a slight hammer on one of the under bonnet supports. looks damn sexy.

should have it running on thursday :(

now only if it would stop raining so i could go outside and finishd changeing the fuel pump :)

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted (edited)
  Bl4cK32 said:
why is everyone strung up on the damn strut brace.

Make new ends to offset the bar across the engine to clear the tb.

If your building the engine, you have to cut and weld the engine mounts, so whats hard about making new strut ends at the same time??

yeh but how rigid is it going to be ?

I haven't seen any pics either.

See pic below, can't move it forward with the RB25DET head, have to go right back against the firewall.

Useless...

Edited by conan7772
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
  conan7772 said:
yeh but how rigid is it going to be ?

I haven't seen any pics either.

Same as the bar was before, or make it better. :blink:

I havent posted pics, but whats so hard to picture about it??

Your simply offsetting a bar forward, not making great structural changes

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

This is what came out of the rb20det gearbox + lots and lots of large chunks of teeth, be buggered fishing them out of that stinky oil. :O

Drain Plug

The back of the tooth where it broke

The mesh side of the tooth, looks as if the engaging gear was really digging in and not meshing with the whole tooth. :S

The new box is very very quiet.. Feels quite strange, like a new car. :P

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Thats a fatigue failure as you can see from the close curved lines across the broken face and the rough area to the other side of the break.

Starts somewhere about where I've marked as best as I can discern from the photos.

Just couldn't handle no more Cap'n

post-6392-1139565202.jpg

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better.

Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... :O

Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time?

A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

So definitely rb30 related?

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted
  Bl4cK32 said:
Same as the bar was before, or make it better. :D

I havent posted pics, but whats so hard to picture about it??

Your simply offsetting a bar forward, not making great structural changes

Can't go forward.

There's nothing between the induction pipe and the bonnet.

Running a bar behind the BOV is too bigger an offset.

It will flex under load i.e USELESS.

What head do you have ?

conan7772 Mentor

conan7772

Posted
Posted
  Cubes said:
This is what came out of the rb20det gearbox + lots and lots of large chunks of teeth, be buggered fishing them out of that stinky oil. :D

Drain Plug

The back of the tooth where it broke

The mesh side of the tooth, looks as if the engaging gear was really digging in and not meshing with the whole tooth. :S

The new box is very very quiet.. Feels quite strange, like a new car. :D

Gees you got that in quick !

What did you pay for it ?

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
  conan7772 said:
Can't go forward.

There's nothing between the induction pipe and the bonnet.

Running a bar behind the BOV is too bigger an offset.

It will flex under load i.e USELESS.

What head do you have ?

ive got the 25de head, and you can move it forward.

edit/ im not going to argue about it, but in a 32 it will fit

Edited by Bl4cK32
Waldo Proficient

Waldo

Posted
Posted

hey guys...my rb20 just blew up..and im considering doing this conversion as i have heard its a great upgrade....just one question though...i have a rb20det power fc...but if i do this conversion i want to run the rb26 head...will my power fc work with this head (i dont mind if i have to rewire a few things) i already have modded the wiring loom for stock gtr injectors. any help would be good

cheers

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It will work fine providing you stick with a single afm.

The only sensor that 'may' not be used is the intake air temp sensor, I am not 100% sure what pin or if it indeed can be used with the rb20det pfc.

SK has said it has or can be done? Not completely sure.

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