Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case. "

taken from Pauls power FC FAQ ..

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#41

"Airtemp sensor on unsupported car?

Some PowerFC's have support for the AirTemp sensor under MONITOR but the car itself does not utilize a factory air temp inlet sensor. I attempted to hook up an airtemp sensor on my ECR33 PowerFC and fried the powerfc and damaged a sensor on my car. The concept was to look at which pin on the BNR33 PowerFC the air temp sensor was connected on and then try and replicate this on the ECR33 PowerFC. I tried this and it did not work, I tried an adjacent wire and it fried the PowerFC. It has since been fixed and all is working but I do not recommend you try to get this working. It may work out costly like it could have been in my case.  "

Yes this mod works fine for BNR32 + HR32 PowerFC. Only ECR33 PowerFC it goes bang

haha yeah good idea

shoulda seen the look on my face when i had pacman characters running around on the hand controller screen and pshyco ticking noises coming from the powerfc

im sure that would have been followed by some VERY colourful words :lol:

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

hey guys. im new to sau, but i jst thort id thro my 2c worth in... im currently building a rb25/30 setup, using a complete factory rb30et bottom end, crank rods and pistons, rb25det head, my current hi flowed xtr turbo,850cc powerflow injectors,haltech ecu, rb26dett water pump, stock oil pump, thru a r33 gtst manusl box...iv been told it will be good for 3/320rwkw...duz this sound rite 2 u?

If it's a high flowed RB20DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 260 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 270 rwkw

If it's a high flowed RB25DET Neo turbo it will run out of airflow at around 280 rwkw

That's not your main problem, the RB30ET pistons with an RB25 head will have very, very low compression ratio (in the 7's). That's why we use the RB30E.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

with the rb30e, are the stock rods and slugs strong enough to take the beating? or a $2500 aftermarket jobs the go? think cheap, thats wat im trying to do.... i know i know, cheap usualling ends up being "cheap", but i dnt av THAT ammount of money lying around atm...

I just want to build a torquey motor, turbo upgrade can wait. so 270kw? a the wheels im guessing? why did this guy tell me 320? is he just having a wank? or is he just trying to get work from me?

This pic illustrates the close curved lines a little better.

Sorry Geoff.. I don't follow the Cap'n... :rofl:

Do you mean repeated high load that attempts to and may very well slightly bend the teeth every time?

A little like breaking a coat hanger by bending it repeatedly.

So definitely rb30 related?

Sorry mate, I missed the question. Wasn't meaning to be rude.

Basically all steel things have a fatigue load limit. Below that load you can load infinitely (faults notwithstanding) and it won't fail, but increase the load, or in this case torque, and eventually it will start to crack slightly more and more each load cycle until the cross sectional area holding it is too small and just lets go, like the coathanger.

The rb30 vl type blocks dont have oil squirters. only the rb20,25,26 have them. a lot of ppl put the rb25det squirters in the rb30 conversions tho...

It's a bustard of a job (= costly), and only about 2 in 10 RB30 blocks are suitable. Ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts, just as effective.

:rofl: cheers :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have one and it was at ~43.5PSI.
    • Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
    • I've uploaded logs / the current map to Gdrive if anyone has any ideas. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1FPnr22Z-EilG7tYdHSi0Qb07P2jfFLKV?usp=sharing
    • I'm running a Haltech Platinum Pro with the stock map for the RB20DET + tweaks for my build. When I started it this morning, the IAT was at 32F/0C (Outside temp was ~42F) and the AFRs went off the scale for my AEM gauge. I let it run for ~30 seconds then turned it off. I then did a smoke test, by hooking into a vacuum line directly behind the throttle body, and confirmed there was no leaks ( i let the smoke tester run for ~5 minutes / confirmed it was generating smoke before hand ). I then started the car again, after fixing a power steering leak.... and it seemed to be happy for ~30 seconds (was at ~11/12), but then seemingly shot back up to ~18 again. I then let the car run for a few minutes, thinking this was just cold start related, but the AFRs never came back down. I didn't let the car fully warm up, so maybe this makes sense, but I'm not sure what to do? The AFRs, when I last ran it, were normal, but because of personal reasons I haven't been able to break in the car. It was rebuilt last year. Engine / Mod list: Supertec pistons Spool rods Kelford 270 cams and Springs Stock crank Deatschwerks 900cc injectors Walbro 255 (Wired directly to the battery relocated in the trunk) NKG Audi R8 Coil packs + Conversion Harnesses from Wiring Specialties Holset HY35 turbo Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Haltech boost controller (wired in for high boost RB25 Neo transmission + needed bits for the speedo to work  
×
×
  • Create New...