R33 Rb30 Conversion

[MonstaS4]

Oil pump is an R33 RB25DE with a couple of washers under the relief spring to bump the pressure up a little.

[5hift]

RE: Patrol RB30

As far as I'm aware they are the same RB30E SOHC.

What is it exactly that you want to know?

Let me try a few guesses...............

Was there an RB30 used in Patrols? Yes

Is it the same as RB30 used in Commondoors and and Skylines? Yes

Does it have oil squirters? No

Is it a 4wd block? No

Are they cheaper than Commondoor RB30? No

Are there more of them than Commodoor RB30? No

Are they rare? Yes

Would I bother searching out for one? No

Hopefully one of those answered your question.

Cheers

excellent ..wow..thanks both I knew if i couldnt find out here then NO ONE would know...once again SAU ....u never let me down.

The reason i ask SydneyKid (Gary?) is because im not in Australia...I'm in Jamaica...if i ask someone to source me RB30 from a GTS they're likely to want to jackup the price on me because of the even the phrase Sk-...if i tell em oh get an old nissan patrol 3.0 carbed engine....they might not be so greedy . If they have none here..am I likely to find the RB30e in Japan?

wow respect again for the info. You guys ever think about writing a skyline bible

[Dahtone Racing]

ok im confused with this restictor stuff

with the RB25DE head out of an R32 wat restrictors do i use and where do i get em from?

wat happpens if i dont use em?

[VHR32]

*For R32/R33 with VCT blocked off:

Sydneykid says use a 2.0mm restrictor and block the other one off.

Cubes wants to use 2x 1.5mm holes

If the RB30 has 2x 1.8mm holes, I wonder if only 1x1.8mm hole was

used whether it would be enough???

*For R33 with VCT working:

Sydneykid uses 1x 1.5mm hole and the standard VCT port

MonstaS4 uses 2x 1.5mm holes and the standard VCT port

All that happens if you dont use them is more (too much?) oil gets pumped into the head than is needed when it is better off in the sump!

Edited March 12, 2006 by VHR32

[ISL33P]

thanks for all the info guys and good timing to as i am just finishing getting all the parts togewther for mine.

do we have a similar summary for oil pumps and which is the recommended one except for the rb26 n1's and aftermarkerts. eg rb30e, rb30et, rb20de, rb20det etc etc

[Craved]

most general concensus i have read is to go for the R33 GTR oil pump with the crank collar from Pro Engines.

[Sydneykid]

I'll add to this my experiences.......

RB30 with R33 25 head. VCT enabled.

On the oil drain issue - head oil return is plumbed into the turbo oil return. Engine has been in and running for nearly 18 months without issue.

On the oil restrictors - I originally built the engine with 2 x 2.4mm restrictors plus the 1.2mm or whatever the VCT is. I had heaps of oil out the breathers if i maintained 4000rpm+ for 5 seconds or more.

About 4 months ago i purchased 2 x 1.5mm Tomei restrictors from Greenline. Punched the old ones down and put the 1.5's on top. So yes they fit the RB30. Oil blown out the breathers is now virtually nil. I did get a little (200ml) after a maintained high speed/rev run but otherwise i haven't checked the catch can since.

1 X 2 mm restrictor = same oil flow as 2 X 1.4 mm restrictors

2 X 1.5 mm restrictors = 12% more oil flow than 1 X 2 mm restrictor

The 12% extra flow is why you get oil in the catch can

Hence why we use 1 X 2 mm restrictor, as our cars see lots of continuous high rpm

Also why I don't recommend plumbing the cylinder head external oil feed into the turbo oil return. Driving around town it doesn't matter, but continuous high rpm and it does.

cheers

PS; (for others) the restrictors go in the block not the head.

[Sydneykid]

1. sydneykid when would you consider it worthwhile to do this (oil restrictors). at what power level etc

can you also give me some advice on what size external wastegate would be required for 20/25psi boost. some people say a 38 is mine however others say 40/45 is needed.

would you reccomend cam gears to be done as part of the engine if im doing the forged pistons you reccomended. i presume you get hundreds of pms but we talked re a t66, any luck on pricing?

Suggestions follow;

1. Power level is irrelevant, it's all about how many rpm you use and for how long (continuously) you use that rpm.

2. Some time ago I published the formula that we use for sizing wastegates. I then compared the results from using that formula with over 40 wastegate sizes done by many turbo and other workshops around the country. The results confirmed the accuracy of the formula, with over 90% alignment.

Airflow in lbs per minute = diameter of wastegate in mm X boost correction factor

Let’s use the formula on my own RB31DET

The target is 450 rwkw at 2 bar

450 rwkw = 700 bhp

700 bhp = 70 lbs per minute of airflow = 70 mm (if I was using 19 psi)

I am using 30 psi, so we need to apply the boost correction

70 / 30 X 19 = 44.3 mm

GCG recommended a 44 mm Tial wastegate based on their experience.

This the original thread if you want more details;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=43638

3. PM me about the turbo, there are a few alternatives with the new releases of aerodynamics from the T04Z work.

Cheers

Edited March 14, 2006 by Sydneykid

[SirRacer]

thanks for your information sydneykid. all your information regarding everything is absolutely invaluable. id hate to know how many engines have been successfully built with some of your information.

im glad i read this thread as my engine would have otherwise been assembled without the restrictors and i probably would have gone with the bigger is better idea rather than listening to any form of reasoning in respect to the wastegate.

where is a place (other than greenline) that you would know of that would stock these restrictors, or is it simply a case of someone being able to fabricate them?

at present my blocks in pieces as is the head waiting to be sent off for some boring. when i get that back ill assemble it all and get back to you regarding a few questions then we can talk turbo. i look forward to it.

[Cubes]

As I mentioned earlier..

Hi Octane Racing Australia

www.hioctaneracing.com.au

$15 each inc. gst + postage.

[SirRacer]

As I mentioned earlier..

Hi Octane Racing Australia

www.hioctaneracing.com.au

$15 each inc. gst + postage.

thanks for that

i read in an earlier thread that you were looking at doing gtr valve springs. i was looking at doing the same then read they also werent all that great.

i then called kelford camtech(im in nz) who do most of the countries top head work. they mentioned there are 3 types of valve springs for the rb25 head which i found interesting. they are 10 dollars dearer than the gtr items from nissan.

they are made by an australian company called performance springs and the quality is meant to be very high.

anyone got any comments on how many kws on a 300 kw engine can be made by cam gears finely adjusting the cams?

anyo

Edited March 14, 2006 by SirRacer

[Cubes]

I've been told to steer clear of aftermarket aussy valve springs by many.

Allen engineering, Chris Milton Engineering and Boostworx to name a few.

I was told to either go s/h gtr springs and have them tested or grab a set of aftermarkets from japan.

I went the s/h low km R33 gtr valve springs. Cost bugger all and are all perfect.

[fatz]

can someone confrim the sentance below re head bolts

"Use a set of 10mm standard RB25DE head bolts. They fit the RB30 block and are the correct length for the GTR head."

i dont want to retap the block until i rebuild it

pete

Edited March 14, 2006 by fatz

[r33_racer]

i know the rb25det head bolts go into the rb30 block..i would assume the rb25de ones are identical. 10mm x 1.5P or 1.25P not sure its probably the later being its going into steel so a fine thread is probably ok. Without checking, my money is on 10mm X 1.25P.

I believe next metric size up is the 12mm bolts which are called half inch. So if your gonna retap it, are you gonna oversize to half inch?

I dont know if the rb25de/t head bolts will work with a gtr head. I would say you would just use the ones that came off that head as its the height of the head that matters..so long as the thread size and pitch is the same you should be laughing.

Question for your question, Doesnt rb26 use half inch head bolts/studs anyway? Isnt that why you have to drill and tap out the block to suit the 26's larger headbolts? A 10mm in a 12mm would leave alot of slop.

[fatz]

ya gtr uses 12mm

but the head is located on dowels so the head studs really just clamp it down and dont provide any horizontal strength???

thats my reading of it

pete

[Sydneykid]

iI believe next metric size up is the 12mm bolts which are called half inch. So if your gonna retap it, are you gonna oversize to half inch?

RB20/25/30 = 11 mm

RB26 = 12 mm

There are 12.7 mm (1/2"), it's a common size for small block V8's = cheap

cheers

Edited March 16, 2006 by Sydneykid

[r33_racer]

ahh so half inch studs/bolts actually are close to half inch..not just closest metric equivalent full value.

I swear someone called the 12mm head bolts/studs half inch even though half inch is 12.7mm.

Isnt 11mm an odd size since most bolts and studs come in multiples of 2 unless you go relatively small.

[Sydneykid]

ahh so half inch studs/bolts actually are close to half inch..not just closest metric equivalent full value.

I swear someone called the 12mm head bolts/studs half inch even though half inch is 12.7mm.

Isnt 11mm an odd size since most bolts and studs come in multiples of 2 unless you go relatively small.

Yep, that's why the 11 mm studs are expensive compared to 1/2". The 12mm ones are expensive because they have RB26 written on the box.

cheers

[Craved]

whats a rough guess on price for the head studs 11mm ??

also would you recommend using studs to hold the crank girdle (right word? ) ?? any part numbers etc and prices ??

[r33_racer]

I believe studs have a greater compression/tensile strength. It supposedly increases it about 15-20% extra over bolts. Im sure arp will have prices for such things.