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im running stock 270 injectors think they have been hi-flowed or something due

GTR = 444cc?

i havent used a nismo FPR before, but found with the malpasi pressure was all over the place. played up with a/f's something shocking. removed it and went back to the stocker and the a/f graph was flat again. ive told people since not to bother with them. and of the tuners i know agree on the bandaid solution with them. IE better just to get injectors that suit the power you are looking for.

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Gary any experience with the GT35r .82 at 13psi?

Foolboost is running the std injectors. I think it will be damn close and 'possibly' just a little out of reach of the std injectors with fuel pressure.

Yes sounds like it will be close :), we will see how she goes, ill let mark know what mods have been done so he doesnt flog it too hard since its fresh too!

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im keen on a 25/30 convo but want some solid information minus all teh bullshit. if anyone knows some kick ass websites can u pls post them up. i tried going thru all the pages but f**k me after 4hours i didnt even make anyprogress.

so pls fellas any good sites with info on this would be greatly appreciated.

would a 25/30 convo be a good idea for better response ina r33. mines way too laggy for my liking with an innovative TO4E.

what other options do i have. front entry plenum? aftermarket exhaust mani? would these help? how much?

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This is a really kick ass website with all the information you need, plus whats in the guide. There isnt alot of bullshit in here either, unless your referring to posts that dont actually relate to doing the conversion directly, but more like idle chat or other problems associated with it.

a/m intake manifold will help with your height clearance issue.

a/m exhaust manifold i guess you need for your a/m turbo with an external wastegate, may flow better then a std one also, depends on what type.

Read the guide, if your keen to do it, get your block and head and start having a look at it if your doing it yourself, you will gain a far better understanding this way. If you get stuck somewhere either ask in here, or just do a search for something at the bottom of one of the pages in this topic and you should get a good answer from somewhere within the near 200 pages.

good luck.

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Read the guide, if your keen to do it, get your block and head and start having a look at it if your doing it yourself, you will gain a far better understanding this way.

good luck.

here here. Most people ask q's that could be answered from actually building the motor, and fitting it to see what needs to be done.

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I believe i figured out more when i actually had the parts in front of me and started fiddling with it, rather then relying just on what i could see in the guide from the pics and or descriptions...maybe some people just dont have very good mechanical feel or understanding...meh i dunno, do a trade instead of going to uni and sitting in an office, but if your the latter then you should be able to pay someone to build it for you :nyaanyaa:

All i was implying (if your attacking my proposal) was that certain parts of the guide i was unclear about until i actually had the block and head infront of me to look at and understand exactly what i needed to do.

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hooray for a non sarcastic remark :)

I too am for that form of learning...or else the world would be filled with too many idiots who just get lazy and want to pay someone else to do everything for them. I dont know about anyone else...but i feel prouder and more confident in myself being able to tell someone at the track that 'yes i did assemble/build/fabricate this myself' and be able to help/guide them if they want to attempt the same, save someone getting ripped by a performance workshop. Apologies if i offended anyone.

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I dont know about anyone else...but i feel prouder and more confident in myself being able to tell someone at the track that 'yes i did assemble/build/fabricate this myself' and be able to help/guide them if they want to attempt the same, save someone getting ripped by a performance workshop. Apologies if i offended anyone.

It is damn rewarding doing a little research and conversion your self, or at least know exactly what is going on, gives a nice fuzzy feeling in side. lol. :)

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has anyone got some pics of the oil pick up relocation and do i need to do this for a rb30 with 26 head and 4wd sump? whats the reason for this exactly? is it the fact it comes out the 30 block where the driveshafts go or something else?

can someone explain the procedure and what needs to be moved and where to?

thanks

Brad

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has anyone got some pics of the oil pick up relocation and do i need to do this for a rb30 with 26 head and 4wd sump? whats the reason for this exactly? is it the fact it comes out the 30 block where the driveshafts go or something else?

can someone explain the procedure and what needs to be moved and where to?

thanks

Brad

Hi Brad the oil pickup cant be in the middle of the 4wd sump because thats where the diff is, so you will have to relocate it somewhere else, i put it as low as possible to the bottom of the sump and also as far back towards the buldge before the diff to ensure on launches that the oil is still picked up well. Now drill a hole in the webbing on the side of the sump and tap a thread in that, this will be where the oil pickup screws into. Then on the outside all you have to do is fit a fitting with a barb on it and then connect a hose from this to the oil pump, i would use braided hose just to be sure. Ill take some photos and post them up soon so you can see maybe it will make more sense then! :thumbsup:

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Hi Brad the oil pickup cant be in the middle of the 4wd sump because thats where the diff is, so you will have to relocate it somewhere else, i put it as low as possible to the bottom of the sump and also as far back towards the buldge before the diff to ensure on launches that the oil is still picked up well. Now drill a hole in the webbing on the side of the sump and tap a thread in that, this will be where the oil pickup screws into. Then on the outside all you have to do is fit a fitting with a barb on it and then connect a hose from this to the oil pump, i would use braided hose just to be sure. Ill take some photos and post them up soon so you can see maybe it will make more sense then! ;)

hey mate thanks for that info, i have actually just been lookin on the gtruk forums and reading that thread on the 30 setup but he didnt actually explain why he moved it and how he did it exactly except a pic of the external fitting on the side of the sump. i just wanted to know why its not possible to use on the 4wd sump and u explained it exactly how i thought.

so who has a pic of the factory oil pickup location on the rb30 blocks? its exactly the same location isnt it by the looks of this pic

BlockC4.jpg

so is it the fact the 4wd sump adaptor goes on that it actually blocks the spot for it and therefore needing to use the external one instead? or am i totally off track and getting confused? :thumbsup:

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hey mate thanks for that info, i have actually just been lookin on the gtruk forums and reading that thread on the 30 setup but he didnt actually explain why he moved it and how he did it exactly except a pic of the external fitting on the side of the sump. i just wanted to know why its not possible to use on the 4wd sump and u explained it exactly how i thought.

so who has a pic of the factory oil pickup location on the rb30 blocks? its exactly the same location isnt it by the looks of this pic

BlockC4.jpg

so is it the fact the 4wd sump adaptor goes on that it actually blocks the spot for it and therefore needing to use the external one instead? or am i totally off track and getting confused? :thumbsup:

Brad if you use the 4wd sump adaptor then it blocks off the oil feed on the rb30 block so you can run the external one instead, remember when assembling your motor to do all the 4wd sump mods first before putting the bottom end togther as it is a hell of a lot of work and even if you purchse one of those 4wd adaptor plates there is still a lot of modifying to be done! Plus you dont want pieces of metal getting into your motor with all the grinding down of the block and drilling... The 4wd diff runs down the centre where the oil feed is on the rb30 block, on the gtr or gts4 block the oil feed is slightly further forward, hope that makes sense ;)

Edited by FOOLBOOST
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hey foolboost thanks again mate, just as i thought the sump adaptor is the main issue, and my plan has changed abit now and i want to rip my head off my jun stroker bottom end and put it on a stock rb30 bottom end (untouched from a vl) with stock pistons, and i dont even wanna touch the crank or bearings, etc as its actually only a temporary setup because i want to learn to tune my autronics smc ecu and i dont want the risk of wrecking my jun forgies/rods and billet crank if i lean it out or something stupid :/

so im going to put my hks t04z/ jun 272 cams/ported head on the stock as a rock rb30 bottom end for a couple of thousand km's until ive sussed out tuning correctly and then when im confident ill put the rb27 back in for a while until i find a track car to put the engine in and then ill chuck a rb30/26 back in the stagea with a more sutle turbo setup and mild cams for daily use. i know its a long way around the solution but one mistake and its gonna cost me big time if i lunch some jun pistons, etc.

best thing is ill get a direct comparision of the jun 2.7L compared to the rb30 bottom end with exactly the same external setups. ill be limiting power on the 30 to around 400hp to keep the crank oil drive and oil pump, rods, etc happy. and ill even get a dyno graph of each to compare on the same horsepower figures and compare boost figures/response etc.

so if i leave the 30 bottom end as it is when i buy it from a wrecked VL then is the adaptor still easy to install without removing the crank and stuff? whats all the grinding needed u mention? do i need to tap new

threads in the bottom of the 30 block for the sump adaptor or do u just use existing threaded holes?

so my interpretation of the mods needed for fitting 26 head on and sump adaptor are...

add 2nd tensioner to front of block

drill and tap block for 12mm rb26 head bolts

external oil pickup onto my existing 26 sump

the 2 bottom gearbox bolts dont lineup but i dont care as ive ran mine without then before

longer silicone joiners for cooler pipes

what happens with the radiator shroud??? or doesnt the height of the fan change?

4wd sump adaptor

modify top power steering bracket bolt hole

get longer timing belt

extend dump pipe for extra height

is that all or am i missing some things to do to make it all fit?

cheers again for the help and info

Brad

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just FYI your better off looking for an R31 skyline for the motor, as a general rule nissan owners tend to look after there cars better and the motors are in heaps better condition. atleast thats what i found lookin at the average VL versus the average R31. if the motor your looking at gettin still has the head on it take a look under the oil cap and check how much sludge is in it. all the nissans i saw were relatively clean and all the vl's were cloged up. this is looking at around 30 different motors.

also r31's use triple flat belt harmonic balancers

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just FYI your better off looking for an R31 skyline for the motor, as a general rule nissan owners tend to look after there cars better and the motors are in heaps better condition. atleast thats what i found lookin at the average VL versus the average R31. if the motor your looking at gettin still has the head on it take a look under the oil cap and check how much sludge is in it. all the nissans i saw were relatively clean and all the vl's were cloged up. this is looking at around 30 different motors.

also r31's use triple flat belt harmonic balancers

hey dan no worries mate i didnt even really think about the r31's to be honest. is the 31 balancer ok for the conversion?

what sort of km's do the 30s usually require new bearings and rings i wonder?

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