Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

FORZA-MOTORSPORT Proficient

FORZA-MOTORSPORT

Posted
Posted (edited)
I would slap the intercooler on now any chance you can pick up a cheapo nismo fpr by then?

13psi is a fair wack and may impeed tuning as the stock ic will heat soak very quickly.

What has Shaun said he's going to charge?

LOL i could tell u but id have to kill you! :D about a third of tilbrooks, i have a d1 intercooler kit, 600x300x76 with 2.5" aluminium piping ill slap it on this week then, ill let you know what time ill be heading down later next week. Not sure ill have a look into the regulators unless anyone has some cheap 550cc injectors or Gtr 440's and a resisitor pack :(

Edited by FOOLBOOST
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone has completed one of these conversions with a r34 gtt head, im currently building one with acl forged pistons, and the head measured up to 50-51cc combustion chamber size, just wondering if this is normal or has the head been decked to the buggery?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Adriano, The R34 I haven't heard much about, I believe one person has done it but I don't remember them mentioning any problems they experienced.

What oil/water galley issues are there with the R34 head? Headbolts what size are they?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
Cool good to hear! ;) , I took her down on wed to Tilbrook and i wasnt too impressed... firstly they didnt even know my car was booked in at the time they had booked it in and it was just shit customer service, so much for there $75 power run, which they all of a sudden changed to a dyno tune $650-700 on friday which i just lol'd at as they had to get someone else in to do the tune. Pissed me off because they didnt seem to know what they where talking about and i didnt want to leave my car in there hands and pay that much! So i went down to see shawn at BOOSTWORX told him u gave me a hand to tune her so far, he is a great bloke and seems to know what he is talking about. My car is now booked in next friday, which he told me would give me a chance to do some more k's on the motor hence why i chose to get my car tunned there, someone who knows there facts! So if you want to come down next friday if your free, we gonna spin her up on the dyno me and my mate captain thread (helped me build the motor) will be there to see what she can do, Shawn thinks that the standard cooler will cause a bit of a problem, what do you guys think i am only aiming for 220rwkw on 13psi which is what my wastegate is set to at the moment ;) I do have a front mount i can put on before next week its just i was going to wait a while and do them all at once, then i had the following upgrades in mind, Q45 AFM, Q45 TB on front facing plenum, FMIC, 550cc injectors.

Can i ask why you chose to go to tilbrooks in the first place? If you'd asked myself or Cubes or Bl4ck32 we all would've told you to go see shaun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

lol.. the mad rush to get it done..

Think you'll have injectors in by tune day?

Wiring in the resistor pack and replacing inj. plugs/boots took my slow arse the good part of a day.

Using the PFC's inj. trim it started and ran perfectly, all though at full throttle it instantly went richer than 10:1. Afr's off boost and idle were near perfect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kastin Contributor

kastin

Posted
Posted

Hey guys been a long time follower of the thread, currently building a 26/30 combo,

How can i find out how much i can shave the head by to bring up CR when using a 280/10.5 cam and Arias rb30 pistons, also has anyone had any experience with these cams i am guessing they should kick in about 4500rpm?

Cheers

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
A very good mate of mine has had his car tunned at Tilbrooks and it goes very well and is reliable, hasnt had a problem at all, but my car is now going to shaun anyway...

Just installed FMIC pics below! :D

thats fair enough, i would've done the same thing!

If you get the injectors in time but don't have time to install them give them to shaun and he'll install them for you, from memory he only charged around the $100 and that included all the wiring of the resistor pack etc!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
FORZA-MOTORSPORT Proficient

FORZA-MOTORSPORT

Posted
Posted
thats fair enough, i would've done the same thing!

If you get the injectors in time but don't have time to install them give them to shaun and he'll install them for you, from memory he only charged around the $100 and that included all the wiring of the resistor pack etc!

Ok that sounds like a good idea :P , considering i probably wont be getting the injectors till thursday then it will be a rush to put them in and do the resistor pack and i probably wont have it finished in time as something will go wrong as usually does when you fiddle with cars!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted
Ok that sounds like a good idea :nyaanyaa: , considering i probably wont be getting the injectors till thursday then it will be a rush to put them in and do the resistor pack and i probably wont have it finished in time as something will go wrong as usually does when you fiddle with cars!

very true, do you have a resistor pack?

also what sort of power numbers are you going for?

Reason i ask is i'm only making 228rwkw's and my GTR injector's sometimes get up to around 88% duty cycle, With a Fuel Pressure regulator you could probably push it a bit past 250 rwkw's but i doubt much more.

Mind you i still have the standard crappy rb25de (non VVT) cams so with any luck some new cams and cam gears might pick myself up a bit more!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hey guys been a long time follower of the thread, currently building a 26/30 combo,

How can i find out how much i can shave the head by to bring up CR when using a 280/10.5 cam and Arias rb30 pistons, also has anyone had any experience with these cams i am guessing they should kick in about 4500rpm?

Cheers

Jon

Hi Jon, you have to measure the combustion chamber size. Every RB cylinder head is different and every individual cylinder is different.

In my opinion 280 degree cams (particularly inlet) are too long in the duration for an RB30. Based on what I have seen on several engines, 280's don't work efficiently until 5,500 rpm, which is too high for an RB30. Unless you are aiming for 800+ bhp of course. The max duration I would use is 272 for the inlet, even 264's work great for a raod engine You might just get away with 280 on the exhaust, it depends on what you are going to use the engine for.

:nyaanyaa: cheers :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
FORZA-MOTORSPORT Proficient

FORZA-MOTORSPORT

Posted
Posted
very true, do you have a resistor pack?

also what sort of power numbers are you going for?

Reason i ask is i'm only making 228rwkw's and my GTR injector's sometimes get up to around 88% duty cycle, With a Fuel Pressure regulator you could probably push it a bit past 250 rwkw's but i doubt much more.

Mind you i still have the standard crappy rb25de (non VVT) cams so with any luck some new cams and cam gears might pick myself up a bit more!

Nope im in the process of getting a resistor pack :rofl: got any spare? My external wastegate is set to 13psi so i think the max ill be making will be 220rwkw if that as my compression is only 8:1, hence ill be able to run higher boost and more timing giving more potential power output once i get an EBC and some bigger injectors! :nyaanyaa:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Just a quick one...how do the heads from the R32 and R33 RB25DE differ. They appear to have different inlet manifolds. If i use the DE head off the R33 RB25DE can i use my Rb20 inlet manifold?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Roy,

The R32 and R33 heads are much different, the R32 RB25DE ports are a bee's dick smaller and of a different design, the R33 n/a head also runs vct, unfortunately the plenums are not interchangable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kastin Contributor

kastin

Posted
Posted (edited)

[Hi Jon, you have to measure the combustion chamber size. Every RB cylinder head is different and every individual cylinder is different.

In my opinion 280 degree cams (particularly inlet) are too long in the duration for an RB30. Based on what I have seen on several engines, 280's don't work efficiently until 5,500 rpm, which is too high for an RB30. Unless you are aiming for 800+ bhp of course. The max duration I would use is 272 for the inlet, even 264's work great for a raod engine You might just get away with 280 on the exhaust, it depends on what you are going to use the engine for. ]

Thanks SK

Sorry for some reason i got 280 in my head checking my msn history its 272, what i want to do is, i got a gt35/40 with a .82 houseing i was planning on the turbo to be spooled up buy 3500-4000, then the cams kick in about 4500, so basicly offsetting the "lightswitch" type power of the turbo by making the cams come in a bit later, giving it some time to grip.. power wise hoping for 650hp ish so using the gt35 to the max (well for dyno runs)

1) will i have to upgrade the lifters to work with the 10.5 cam

2) And How do i identify what type of retainers i have so i can order the right JUN cam kit?

3) What pistons give a 9 ish cr? with the 26 head or do theyb have the be custom made?

Cheers

Jon

Edited by kastin
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BOVed Community Regular

BOVed

Posted
Posted

Very interested in having an Rb26/30det built for my 33gtst but I dont have the time to read 3000+ posts at the moment anyone whos had this done possibly have a list of parts,pricing,labour etc? would be much appreciated

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...