R33 Rb30 Conversion

[shanef]

1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard)

2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc.

3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump

4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block

5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil "

1. In ur head assuming its an rb25, ull have 2 oil restrictors there, make up a solid one and push it ontop, blocking one restrictor.

2. Refer to the table decribed in the previous post by r33_racer

3. If you look at the back of the head ther will be some welsche plugs, tap a fitting into one (cant remember which one, but its explained in the oiling in rb's thread) and and tap a fitting into ur sump, and run a line between the 2 fittings.

4. Do as it says, or send it to a workshop that knows what they r doing.

5. As 4.

Dont take this as gospel, but its near on correct.

[anticeptik]

Shane f, thanks heaps wasnt sure with the sump but ive worked it out

Cheers

Edited August 15, 2006 by anticeptik

[SLIMVLT]

wait till u get it tuned stocky then u will have traction issues.

ive owned and had the plesure to drive quite a few high powered v8 and turbo cars and its not a fun fealing when a big turbo comes on in 3rd or ya hit a bump or something on a upshift in the monro and it skips strait sideways not a fun thing when your doing over 100, or even thinkin it will be a great idea in the vl to go back to 3rd to overtake in the rain at 100 kmhr not fun at all.

[r33_racer]

ok so i was bored....went and found the thread for the oil control in RB's by SK.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110680

That will help if you havent already found it.

[StockyMcStock]

wait till u get it tuned stocky then u will have traction issues.

ive owned and had the plesure to drive quite a few high powered v8 and turbo cars and its not a fun fealing when a big turbo comes on in 3rd or ya hit a bump or something on a upshift in the monro and it skips strait sideways not a fun thing when your doing over 100, or even thinkin it will be a great idea in the vl to go back to 3rd to overtake in the rain at 100 kmhr not fun at all.

that's cool man - the thing will be twincharged so the boost (and hence throttle response) will be perfectly linear at all RPM with respect to my right foot. makes it a hell of a lot easier to stay on the edge of traction when torque output is flat through the rev range, and perfectly proportional to throttle opening. i'm hoping it will be quite smooth and easy to drive quickly. hoping.

[Sydneykid]

that's cool man - the thing will be twincharged so the boost (and hence throttle response) will be perfectly linear at all RPM with respect to my right foot. makes it a hell of a lot easier to stay on the edge of traction when torque output is flat through the rev range, and perfectly proportional to throttle opening. i'm hoping it will be quite smooth and easy to drive quickly. hoping.

Time for a touch of realism and a genuine wish for good luck in tuning it. Some things to think about;

1. Torque x Rpm = horsepower.

2. Mechanical losses increase with torque output

3. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of speed, but the horsepower absorbed rises with the cube of speed.

4. 50% of the horsepower does not arrive at 50% of the throttle opening, well not on any engine I have ever tuned. On an N/A engine it’s closer to 30%, a supercharged engine around 40% and a turbocharged engine around 55%.

5. This % varies markedly according to rpm

If you do achieve the magic of balancing the above, you will have achieved something that all of the automotive manufacturers in the world haven’t been able to despite 110 years of trying. The most recent attempts being throttle by wire, because a linear response throttle cable has no chance.

cheers

Edited August 16, 2006 by Sydneykid

[shanef]

Can some1 help me out with the front pipe & dumps for my 32 gtr rb2630 conversion.

I need some dump pipes and a new front pipe, in the next 2 weeks, but dont want to pay a rediculous amount (i.e ~$2000 CES quoted for a full custom job).

Would the best idea be to buy a pre-made one (like a Trust Extension Pipe) and modify it so the dumps dont hit the firewall?

What have other people done, and how much did it cost?

cheers, Shane

[GTR-Ben]

Can some1 help me out with the front pipe & dumps for my 32 gtr rb2630 conversion.

I need some dump pipes and a new front pipe, in the next 2 weeks, but dont want to pay a rediculous amount (i.e ~$2000 CES quoted for a full custom job).

Would the best idea be to buy a pre-made one (like a Trust Extension Pipe) and modify it so the dumps dont hit the firewall?

What have other people done, and how much did it cost?

cheers, Shane

The 30mm or so really make that bigger difference?

I would say the cheapest would be to modify a current setup by far.

[Craved]

to correctly modify that 30 vertical lift you nearly have to re engineer the whole dump pie to get it to continue flowing smoothly

[shanef]

looking at the trust extension pipes, it looks like it can be cut along the straight bit in the dump pipe section, and additional pipe put in, yeah?

[Craved]

that would make it fit like 15mm forwards and 15mm upwards

the 30 mm is straight up

*insert dodgy picture here

[shanef]

yeh good point. i rang up CES today for a quote, and he said that i could get away with running a stock position front dump, but the rear would need to be changed

prolly depends on how much clearance there is/isnt. i can see me putting the engine in and out a few times here *sigh* there goes the lovely new paint job

[StockyMcStock]

lol that's twice now i've been caught out using words that aren't 100% correct.

in my previous post, delete the word "perfectly".

but i am still expecting torque output to be very flat through the whole rev range, which goes a long way towards making a car easier to drive quickly.

4. 50% of the horsepower does not arrive at 50% of the throttle opening, well not on any engine I have ever tuned. On an N/A engine it’s closer to 30%, a supercharged engine around 40% and a turbocharged engine around 55%.

5. This % varies markedly according to rpm

the number are irrelevant, so long as power is fed in linearly to the wheels with respect to throttle position. at any given point in the usable power band i would hope to be able to control the throttle (and hence traction) with much greater ease than a conventional turbocharged engine. this is primarily due to turbine shaft speed taking a little while to "catch up" to the engine as you feather the throttle. a roots blown job might be better for this, strictly speaking, but as we know most roots blower setups have a rather sharp drop in torque at the top end.

bah anyway we're just being picky gimps now (i'm the pickiest of the bunch haha!) i guess i should get off my ass and build the thing already and stop arguing silly points.

p.s. cheers for the info man, i didn't know this either: "3. Aerodynamic drag rises with the square of speed, but the horsepower absorbed rises with the cube of speed." happy to learn new things!

Edited August 16, 2006 by StockyMcStock

[FORZA-MOTORSPORT]

Shane we can do it for you twin dumps $550 and fronts $550 pics attached, but you will have to wait over a month as we r going on a break till 21st of september. Also 4" cat back system as seen below straight threw

[R31 POWER]

Fark me looks like a Big Conda, you know those big snakes lol

[magicfingers]

hi guys what a thread!!

i have a mid level drag gtr

last time out i blew a side out of the block(to greedy with the nos)

so ive been thinking about building a rb30 baised short block as a temp replacement untill i can get the funds together for another full counter bottom end

so i have a few questions

is block flex a problem at higer outputs?

if so anyone maid a stronger crank/block gurdile?

if so was it incorperated into a 4wd adapter?

how hot do they run with a filled block?

as my 26 head/cam setup makes maximim power at 9500rpm is there any way to make the things rev

anyone tryed a rd28 crank in a rb30?

is there any way to work out the first/second order hamonic vibrations on a crank(rd28)

will my rb26 ati harmonic balancer work on a rb30 or rb30/rd28 hybrid?

is there anything else i need to know about the rb30 in extreme power aplications

the general idea is to use a rb30 early block(iv been told they are a little stronger correct me if im wrong) rd28 crank with some custom rods and a set of ross rb26 pistions i have lying around

what do you thing it could rev to (not paticulaly safely)

the donor rb26 has the following specs

gt42r

nos six port flogger

hks manifold

trust drag spec intercooler

geady plenium

50mm x 6 thottles

full tomei drag spec head

extensive porting

tomei drag cams 280 in 288 ex 11.25 lift

ti buckets/retainers

big valves/springs

ati damper

os tripple clutch/flywheel(will it bolt up?)

motec m800

we were running 2.5 bar in a filled rb26 group a block will a rb30 block take this?

anyone give my trust dog box a chance with the extra touge?

am i playing with myself with the rd 28 crank idea would i be better to run a rb 30 crank and use smaller cams and only rev to 8000?

thanks in advance

Edited August 16, 2006 by magicfingers

[Sydneykid]

hi guys what a thread!!

i have a mid level drag gtr

last time out i blew a side out of the block(to greedy with the nos)

so ive been thinking about building a rb30 baised short block as a temp replacement untill i can get the funds together for another full counter bottom end

so i have a few questions

is block flex a problem at higer outputs?

if so anyone maid a stronger crank/block gurdile?

if so was it incorperated into a 4wd adapter?

how hot do they run with a filled block?

as my 26 head/cam setup makes maximim power at 9500rpm is there any way to make the things rev

anyone tryed a rd28 crank in a rb30?

is there any way to work out the first/second order hamonic vibrations on a crank(rd28)

will my rb26 ati harmonic balancer work on a rb30 or rb30/rd28 hybrid?

is there anything else i need to know about the rb30 in extreme power aplications

the general idea is to use a rb30 early block(iv been told they are a little stronger correct me if im wrong) rd28 crank with some custom rods and a set of ross rb26 pistions i have lying around

what do you thing it could rev to (not paticulaly safely)

the donor rb26 has the following specs

gt42r

nos six port flogger

hks manifold

trust drag spec intercooler

geady plenium

50mm x 6 thottles

full tomei drag spec head

extensive porting

tomei drag cams 280 in 288 ex 11.25 lift

ti buckets/retainers

big valves/springs

ati damper

os tripple clutch/flywheel(will it bolt up?)

motec m800

we were running 2.5 bar in a filled rb26 group a block will a rb30 block take this?

anyone give my trust dog box a chance with the extra touge?

am i playing with myself with the rd 28 crank idea would i be better to run a rb 30 crank and use smaller cams and only rev to 8000?

thanks in advance

So many questions, the answer really depend what power output that you are chasing. Let’s try a numbered approach;

1. Why do you want use an RD28 crank, they are no stronger than an RB30 crank

2. Nizpro make a full width crank girdle, damn expensive though. We have used the standard crank and girdle up to 950 bhp. That using ARP main bearing studs.

3. RB30 harmonics are GROSSLY overrated. To cure the tiny harmonic that they really have, you can use your RB26 ATI damper or simply overbalance it.

4. Off the shelf Argo I beam rods will do the job, as per #2 above.

5. The 4wd sump adaptor adds a fair bit of lower block rigidity

6. Sorry I have no idea about temperature and block filling. Since engine temperature it is a factor of horsepower X efficiency I can’t see why an RB30 would be any different to an RB20/25/26 at similar power levels.

7. I can’t say as I have ever seen any differences in early/late/turbo/non turbo/ Skyline/Commondoor blocks. They have all measured up the same for me.

8. You won’t need 2.5 bar (like you did in the RB26) to make the same power in an RB30. It’s actually pretty linear, so around 2.1 bar should do it.

9. The extra 500cc’s takes away some of the “bigness” in the cams. What’s a lumpy overlap in a 2.6 litre is quite a bit smoother in a 3 litre. I’d give the 280/288’s a go.

10. Always keep in mind that an RB30 will make the same power at 7,500 rpm as an RB26 does at 9,000 rpm.

I think that about covers it (tip = number the questions, it makes it easier to repond)

cheers

[magicfingers]

thanks for the advice sydney kid it is much apriciated

[slo-a31]

i've gone thru 207 pages i cant find anything.

i'm running an rb30dett

using

rb25de R32 head

rb26 plenum

rb26 turbo and manifolds

i cant seem to find any pistons to get my comression up so i have good responce.

any help would be good.

cheers

[r33_racer]

How high are you trying to go with your CR?

I believe there are CP pistons available now to get a CR of 9:1 or conversly just shave the head or use a thinner headgasket.