Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyway here is the dyno graph from the tune. They had problems with wheel spin, they couldnt keep the car down, with it strapped down as hard as they could get it and with a few fellas in the boot it still managed to wheelspin...They chewed up the re55 sr's...made a mess of their dyno room. You can see the blips on the plot.

post-12828-1157099031.jpg

So final figure was 320kw at 8000rpm, wanted to keep going but 8k redline is fine. That was on 1.3 bar, knock is around 50-70. So due to boost spiking and excessive knock, that was the highest boost we could run with. Next step is definetely the water/meth injection, bigger cams and probably the 1.06 rear depending on lag difference. 400kw would be great, and shouldnt be too hard to achieve with the future mods.

Hope its kewl to have this posted here. Will have to put it in the rb30 hybrid power thread too.

Nice power, How easy/well does it rev to 8000rpm? I guess the ATI balancer helps it out, what was that worth in $ ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fuel is shell optimax extreme 100ron and yeh its just a dedicated track car. Yeh for racing i think the larger housing should be fine, just a matter of convincing my old man that.

The ATI damper we got for around $800 i believe....Its the 1000hp rb26 race one. With the 25/30 everything was fine except we had to modify the powersteering pump bracket a little bit...had to space it forward about 5mm so the belt would line up properly. We moved the pump forward within the bracket rather then modifying the bracket to move the whole lot forward. Just incase someone says its a bolt up item...well it isnt :D It revs out extremely easy and extremely fast almost as if nothing is holding it back, i can say like most of you think too that the 30hyrbid is just as revvy as the other rbs, just makes more power at lower rpm.

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is mad and completly pointless but im at dinner and doing this from my phone. This is really cool and time consuming from a mobile haha. Um yeh go cp pistons since were talking about forgies.

dude... you're out to dinner?

I want you to stop eating. Get up from your chair (excuse yourself of course...) and go to the bathroom.

In the bathroom, you will find a mirror. Go up to that mirror - look yourself straight in the eye and say:

".. I have a problem .."

Its the first and hardest step to recovery... :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is mad and completly pointless but im at dinner and doing this from my phone. This is really cool and time consuming from a mobile haha. Um yeh go cp pistons since were talking about forgies.

What Comp Ratio did you get using CP pistons?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It came from japan and is a jun plenum, bigger then greddy etc, needs a bit of work on the inside of the tb flange needs a clean up, also the runners and i need to take the ports out to suit my head as they are for an rb20det and my r32 rb25de ports on my head are much bigger, all up cost was $1400 for plenum and 800cc sard twin spray injectors, not bad eh :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ran mine on the stock ecu for close to 10,000km's.

Ran fine apart from the fuel cut at 6-7psi. AFR's were near perfect.

Thanks Cubes. Just wanting to confirm that it'll work with a rb25de head (out of the r32)... Not sure what sensors are different from a r31 where the rb30 is :P But I would need to find an ECU for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Comp Ratio did you get using CP pistons?

sky30 CP advertise that with a std headgasket (1.2mm) with their pistons you get a 8.3:1 CR, with our particular head and block and headgasket i worked out ours to be closer to 8.5:1, from memory it was around 8.4X:1. So you could call it 8.5:1 for arguments sake.

AM-PERFORMANCE Thats an extremely good price for plenum and injectors together. You should be heaps happy with that purchase, so now more clearance and more then enough fuel.

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

alright, been seriously considering this for some time, ok actually a very long time. mainly because i want my car to piss in the low revs.

i have since got the 30 series2 bottom and r33det head. BUT after talking to some builers they all seem to have the same respone... dont do it!

theyre main reason that they dont wona touch it is that the 30s dont handle no where near as much boost as the 25s. now im getting a bit put off the whole 25/30 idea coz i dont wona be afraid to rev my engine hard.

from you guys whats your experiance with reliability with these things? what sort of boost do youse run? what sorta power u making? forged internals? please help a bruvva out ive already got everything sitting in my shed, just waiting for the some good advice.. basically is this true or not?

my plan was to get a responsive and reliable 400rwph... using innovative T04E, turbo back 3", cat back 3.5, fuel reg, arais forged pistons, eagle H beam rods, full balanced and preped bottom end, full preped head with minor port polish and strengthened valve springs.

(pls dont be a chop and say read the 5000 previous pages)

thanx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
×
×
  • Create New...