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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Cubes i know where your coming from and concur fully. I wish everyone else would live by that also. It might save someone some heartache or it might not. Why would you not play it safe now when you easily can? Collars are cheap and readily available. Well i know JUN ones have come down in price too cause im pretty sure we got ours from Hi-Octane for like 200odd bux. Unless its a proengines one named a 'JUN' crank collar.

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

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SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
Posted

a company called japaneseperformance in nz do them also.

email them on [email protected] and say byron sent you and they should hook you a good deal. i think they are cheaper that above definitley

i definitley get the concept now, just had to have a closer look at the pictures as im blind sometimes hah

GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted (edited)

Then there are old builds like mine that havn't done 1km yet... :(

It will some day!!

I don't have a crank collar also.. same reason as Cubes, the cost at the time.

Oh got the dry sump setup on the OS RB30 almost done. A lot of work in that to fit it all in a stock engine bay.

Drysump1.jpg

Drysump2.jpg

Edited by GTR-Ben
GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
' date='13 Sep 2006, 11:05 PM' post='2491706']

What did that dry sump setup set you back?

I don't own the posted motor. Mine is the red one in my sig :D

Most of the cost would be in labour.. especially when fitting all that into a stock engine bay where you have to allow for all the other accessories. The custom fabrication and cost of all the braided lines and fittings adds up also.

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Why would you have to fit it into a stock engine bay? Ive seen race cars with dry sump setups spread out through the car to suit weight distribution and the problem of space limitations.

You can spread it out abit if its a dedicated track car...a road reg car well... why would you even bother doing all that work to a road registered car anyway?

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Eliminates any chance of oil surge, lets you hold more oil and removes crank case pressure which results in a slight increase of hp . Its perfect for circuit racing as the oil is totally controlled so to say.

Depending on the setup though if you did it yourself then it would probably only cost 2-3grand maybe if you can source parts well and that would include you making the bracketry and all the lines and so forth. If you get someone else to do it, i think a price i heard from a bloke at the track was about 6-7grand.

Edited by r33_racer
GTR-Ben Proficient

GTR-Ben

Posted
Posted
Why would you have to fit it into a stock engine bay? Ive seen race cars with dry sump setups spread out through the car to suit weight distribution and the problem of space limitations.

You can spread it out abit if its a dedicated track car...a road reg car well... why would you even bother doing all that work to a road registered car anyway?

Well.. it is a road reg car.

Why do this to a road reg car? well why have anything this crazy for a street car?

Street legal street car that he wants to drive around.. yet be fast down the 1/4.

It all fits fine, just a bit more work in doing it. Less piping etc though :rolleyes:

r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

rb30e and rb30et are virtually identical. One has lower compression then the other to suit a turbocharged state. However the na pistons are better as they provide a higher CR, where as the turbo pistons give too lower CR. Rods and crank are all the same, blocks are also. Only difference is the series model, one has blanked off holes for oil and water feed for turbo and the other has tapped holes to suit but with bungs in them if NA.

If it helps we used a series 2 NA block.

I should also add that you should read the guide it might answer some questions you may have.

Edited by r33_racer
JMCY Newbie

JMCY

Posted
Posted
rb30e and rb30et are virtually identical. One has lower compression then the other to suit a turbocharged state. However the na pistons are better as they provide a higher CR, where as the turbo pistons give too lower CR. Rods and crank are all the same, blocks are also. Only difference is the series model, one has blanked off holes for oil and water feed for turbo and the other has tapped holes to suit but with bungs in them if NA.

If it helps we used a series 2 NA block.

I should also add that you should read the guide it might answer some questions you may have.

whats the view regarding pistons should I go for CP pistons with flat top compression 8.5 or dome 9.0?

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