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That means 1 Map and 2 Tables

Map 1 is the wastegate solenoid map with MAP and RPM being the axis

Table 1 is multiplier table of the first map with TPS and RPM being the axis

Table 2 is another multiplier table of the second map with TPS and KPH being the axis

MAP + RPM + TPS + KPH = ooops, that's 4 dimensions

How do you do that on a 3 dimensional map?

:) cheers :D

Im pretty sure it can be done to some degree with a SM2 autronic, there is definately a speed trim, but im not sure how comprehensive it is, i think its set up for drag cars

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That means 1 Map and 2 Tables

Map 1 is the wastegate solenoid map with MAP and RPM being the axis

Table 1 is multiplier table of the first map with TPS and RPM being the axis

Table 2 is another multiplier table of the second map with TPS and KPH being the axis

MAP + RPM + TPS + KPH = ooops, that's 4 dimensions

How do you do that on a 3 dimensional map?

:) cheers :D

Map 1 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map with MAP and RPM being the axis

Map 2 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map iwth TPS and RPM being the axis

Lookup Table 1 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map with VSS being the axis

MAP 1 - MAP 2 - Table 1 = final wastgate duty cycle.

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Map 1 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map with MAP and RPM being the axis

Map 2 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map iwth TPS and RPM being the axis

Lookup Table 1 is wastegate solenoid duty cycle map with VSS being the axis

MAP 1 - MAP 2 - Table 1 = final wastgate duty cycle.

Since the VSS is on the driven wheels (I assume) how do you handle wheelspin?

Or do you take the VSS off the undriven wheels (if it's 2wd)?

Or do you use wheel speed splitter and use the lowest speed ie; hopefully the one without wheelspin?

:) cheers :D

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SM2 runs multiple sensors, as it also has traction control, you can set the boost to run off the front or rears(although i dont know why you would)

Traction control via ABS wheel speed sensors is not what we are talking about.

On a circuit race car that method is pretty much useless as changes in power application, at the edge of the tyres' traction cirlce, affect the stability very drastically.

What we are discussing is limiting boost (and therefore power) using other inputs, ie; NOT traction control, because even with limited boost, the car can still have sufficient power to spin the wheels ie; lose traction.

:) cheers :D

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Since the VSS is on the driven wheels (I assume) how do you handle wheelspin?

Or do you take the VSS off the undriven wheels (if it's 2wd)?

Or do you use wheel speed splitter and use the lowest speed ie; hopefully the one without wheelspin?

:) cheers :D

Would take a fair amount of tuning to get right. But if you wanted to get tricky you may be able to measure the differnce between front and rear wheel speed sensors and make that an axis. That way you would have:

1. Map1 Wastegate duty cycle with MAP and RPM as the axis.

2. MAP2 wstegate duty cycle with (difference in wheel speed) and RPM as the axis.

THat way you pull the boost out when there is a larger difference in front to rear wheel speeds.

We are actually the agents for racelogic traction control systems they work on wheel speed differntials and you can dial in the percentage slip allowed - very cool stuff, very expensive as well - as its used in formula 1.

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cheers gents - i'm quite happy with the way the mounts came together. i learnt a LOT about supercharger drive systems from my last effort which was a shocker to say the least. this time i have very short belt lengths and everything is extremely rigid, both of which are critical to success. i have had it running with the pipes off and it all looks top notch straight off the bat. touch wood, i won't have alignment problems. i am particularly impressed with the compound drive system, i can take all the credit for it too because it was my idea!

stick welder, angle grinder and drill all the way!

sounds like a big angry bee with no outlet pipe on - very noisy indeed! pumps a lot more air at idle than the little SC-14 did too.

as you can see from the pics, the turbo outlet needs to do a sharp turn (bummer!) straight into the blower's inlet, which is on the rear face of the thing. the large square outlet needs to be merged into that 3 inch pipe before intercoolind and throttle body in the conventional manner. bypass gate goes on there too.

issues to still be addressed include heat shielding for the manifold and blower, piping, gate setup and tuning!

pity i'm broke as anything. should have a real job by the end of the year so that will help.

cubes: 550cc nismo squirters here ready to go in when the time comes.

more pics:

IMG_1108.jpg

IMG_1112.jpg

IMG_1114.jpg

concerns over the torque moment on the tensioner arm will be addressed if they become a problem with fatigue cracking etc. it's as stiff as i could imagine at the moment and i can't see it breaking anytime soon. time will tell!

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fark you're quick off the mark tonight!

story goes that a few weeks ago i had a little oil leak from the front of the engine somewhere, took the timing cover off etc but couldn't find it. then assembled it all again and realised it was just the little blanking plate i'd made up for the extra oil drain hole leaking a bit, bolt had come loose.

anyway the car seemed to lose a whole lot of power after it, so i checked the timing again and it was 10 degrees retarded. oddly, it still ran pretty well, just lost power everywhere obviously. beforehand, the CAS had been pretty much in the middle of the tracking groove, but not afterwards? my only conclusion was that i put it back in on the wrong spline somehow, even though it has a keyway which should make this impossible.

anyway i re-timed it to 15 degrees and picked up about 80hp at the wheels (pants dyno) so i'm happy.

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lol yes I was quick.. Only just got home, checked email and there you were. >_<

It looks as if your running the later style cas, being without the black center. The early model cas's run a half moon key so its either in or not.

Spline... so the late model doesn't run the usual half moon key?

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