Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it's a series 1 head if that means anything?

it has like 12 big spline ridges/valleys and a half moon key - unless the key is broken somehow? i should really have a look at it but i'm lazy and the timing is right so i don't care too much. knock sensing FTW.

Sounds like you need a new cam and CAS by the sounds of that as there is to much play within the spline/half moon and the CAS itself. Have seen it before. Customer complains that it sometimes pings and sometimes just feels really sluggish. He had about +/- 7deg timing variance depending upon where the sline allowed the CAS to move to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys just have a few quick questions,

1) it was brought up about 7 pages ago.. but does anyone know if you can use apr rob bolts for a vg30 or a rb26 on rb30 rods? what rod bolts are people using when using stock rods.

and Cubes, have you pulled the rb30 guide? i keep getting page can not be displayed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geocities pulled the site down as their auto script deemed it as a site that contains forwarding code that automatically bounces you to another web site, which it clearly didn't.

I've raised a dispute so it should be back online within a day or so. If not I'm looking at throwing it in SAU's wiki which will also prevent those who bundle the guide with engine manuals and sell it on ebay.

With regards to the Vg30 bolts... Can any one else confirm so I can throw it in the guide for others?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the ARP site...

SR20 11/32˝ 202-6005
VG30 V6 D (Four Cam), DET, DETT 11/32˝ 202-6004
GOOD: STANDARD HIGH PERFORMANCE BOLTS

A premium grade 8740 alloy chrome moly steel is used to manufacture ARP High Performance connecting rod bolts. This material is heat-treated to provide a tensile strength in the 200,000 psi range, which is substantially stronger than the OEM bolts. Cycle testing shows ARP High Performance rod bolts to be nearly five times more reliable than stock bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 engine builder i know didnt like the fit of the sr20 bolts (wasnt my motor) even though they would have been rite when done up, they just where flopy in the hole where the std 1ns where a tight fit. the guy ended up just geting std bolts from nissan for like 50 all up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think different rods will have different pitched threads.

3/8" and 11/32" are two that are available for the RB30 I think...

You just have to make sure which one it is before you buy the rods I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from memory I think its the VG30 bolts that fit the RB30, or could be the SR20 :-) Either way its easy to figure out which are the ones with a few measurements.

Most aftermarket rods for RB30 use ARP 2000 cap screws, 3/8 thread, 7/16 head and 1.5 thread length ( from the bottom of the head )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks guys,

so those that are using standard rods, are yous just using standard nissan rod bolt?

i am, going to see how it lasts with 300rwkw

already picked up a 2nd motor incase it goes, which is gonna get the goodies in it, and more power

--------------------

anyone able to confirm if the rings are the same on the rb30E and RB30ET pistons?

i know the pistons are different, but i have just recieved some ACL rings and they are labelled RB30T rings .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

std rods should be fine providing you keep rev's in check.

Highest I've heard of a stock bottom end being pushed and holding together for some time was around 370rwkw, that was on the dyno that I run on. It had a GT40 bolted to the side of it with an SOHC head. Unsure if the motor actually let go or if he was just building up another motor as rods are required at that power level. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32 RB25 and R33 RB25 valves are exactly the same size.

The R32 RB25DE head ports are quite a bit bigger than the rb20det ports and are of the same design/shape. They are however slightly slightly smaller than the RB25DET/RB26DETT ports. The RB25/26 port design looks more of a square shape.

If I were to do it again and were not bothered about the non-stock look I would grab R33 RB25DET head and utlize its vct that aids low and topend power. Anything to extend that power band with the 3ltr is definitely a good thing. If its a streeter the VCT aids low end torque and as a result in theory, fuel economy. The R34 GTT head would be better again but unfortunately there are limited aftermarket plenums available. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome.. And it bolts straight up with the same vct modifications as the usual R33 head?

I'm not too familiar with the R34 head to be honest. From what I saw they appear to run vct on both the inlet and exh. cam. Is that correct?

If thats correct I'm also assuming its not a very intelligent system where by its constantly variable but a simple rpm switch point?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only got the head with std cams - no cams gears.

But it looks as if they only have VCt on the intake like R33. They have no drain back on the exhaust side like R33 either.

I am not using the VCT as I am running HKS 272 / 9.35 cams.

The R33 plenum bolts straight up, as I am using a CPC Plenum that used R33 runners.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im building an RB25/30 with an r34 neo head for an r32 drift car. The differences are that with the solid lifter i am chucking in my old standard gtr cams which means the r32 CAS bolts straight in. If you wanted to keep the VCT you can just fit the exhaust gtr cam. The combustion chamber is smaller meaning with my ACL flat tops, it ends up with 8.8:1 comp. On top of the R33 head, they have 1mm bigger inlet valves and the solid lifters, also the vct is variable instead of switched like the 33. For my next 25/30 i would like to get two R34 gtt VCT pulleys and setup a VCT on both the inlet and exhaust with a twincharge like Stocky's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well I had 2 choices from then on. I either had to (reluctantly) move it on to another potential buyer and take the loss on the chin. Or I stick with it and turn it into a restoration project. I chose the latter. Project Snowstorm began! The frp body kit was the first thing to go. Turns out the original colour used to be silver. The Neo and gearbox were removed, along with the prop and exhaust system before it took a trip to the bodyshop, where I wouldn’t see it again for quite some time due to the pandemic hitting very soon after they took it away. Eventually, progress began and damage assessments made. Even the front chassis leg was in pretty bad shape!     Then the chopping commenced. For these guys it was just usual routine, to me it looked absolutely terrifying!   More to follow as I’m struggling to focus on my screen at 12:45 am!!!
    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
×
×
  • Create New...