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Lets see what r33_racers failure was caused by before we go jumping the gun.

True, it may not even be that.

But while on the subject, does anyone run any 'engine kill' devices that detect low oil pressure and cut ignition to help save the motor? Is there a separate device like this available? A light on the dash doesn't give much time to react when at high revs, but perhaps a sensor to trigger ignition kill would be the go...

I've thought about a warning buzzer, not sure if killing ignition is the way to go, probably just better off with a buzzer so you can drop it in neutral asap. Providing you don't forget about the buzzer, it goes off and you think wtf is that, by the time you remember its too late anyway. :laugh:

Kill ignition and it may lock the rears mid corner or something silly.

True, it may not even be that.

But while on the subject, does anyone run any 'engine kill' devices that detect low oil pressure and cut ignition to help save the motor? Is there a separate device like this available? A light on the dash doesn't give much time to react when at high revs, but perhaps a sensor to trigger ignition kill would be the go...

I've thought about a warning buzzer, not sure if killing ignition is the way to go, probably just better off with a buzzer so you can drop it in neutral asap. Providing you don't forget about the buzzer, it goes off and you think wtf is that, by the time you remember its too late anyway. :P

Kill ignition and it may lock the rears mid corner or something silly.

mate runs an engine kill switch like the one suggested on his sprint car, with over $60K in the engine, as soon as the oil pressure drops, it cuts everything.

with our cars it might ne a little harder than the carbied V8.. as you have to bypass any chance of a turbo timer working etc, then power steering and where you are.

but i am DEFINATELY going to run a switch to a specific light (autometer pen light for example) that will be direct line of sight. might not save the rebuild, but you wont go seizing anything.

yeh i think motecs and autronics have that feature built in, if something goes over a preset warning value it shuts off the engine completely to save it from harm. I know alot of sprint car racers and even circuit racers have a kill switch hooked inline to the oil pressure switch which craved is talking about so it kills the engine if pressure drops to nothing. I think we wish we had that now haha >_<

Well my motor is nearly ready to go back in my car so hopefully thursday/friday the rb30det will be out and getting stripped down....we found a strip of steel/tin in the oil, looks like its from a bearing... :P

Oh also cubes...things we would do differently... Well our tuner wants us to run a flat 8:1CR. Id like to run 9:1, but they like it lower to help keep the knock down, so can run more timing and boost. Will definetely do all the oil control mods that SK listed properly, instead of letting my old man half arse them cause he thinks he knows better haha, umm defintealy run conrods with oil squirters and thats about it so far that i can think of. Will probably come up with more as we put it back together.

Edited by r33_racer

quickie -

what engine sealant did you guys use on the replacement whelsh plugs .. i have a black sensor safe engine sealer i used on my bike, would this suffice?

or something like a tri bond sealer be best?

Edited by Craved

Just fitted front facing plenum, what a nitemare, even check out my new clutch master cylinder to compensate for plenum size :no:, now bonnet does close :), all thats left to do is the final wiring for injectors, z32 and apexi ebc then ill crank 20psi and see what she can push at all 4 wheels!

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