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AM-LACKOFPERFORMANCE drives like a pansy anyway it should be all good. :no:

It should be ok as the motors torque twist drops the drivers side of the motor.

LOL, you can talk CUBES MR SLOWER RB30, i guess im lucky then :), got cable all hooked up too as u can see in the pic am waiting for someone who noes there electrical shit! :sorcerer:

Alright. We got the motor out tonight and pulled the sump and pump off. First thing we noticed is the massive amount of bearing strips all throughout the sump and block. The pickup was clogged entirely with them and there was patches stuck to parts of the block. I havent had a chance to pull the pump apart to inspect the gears inside, but the backing plate is still on tight and the drive part of the gear is still fully intact with no cracking. The outer ring may be stuffed though. I will fully pull it apart on the weekend to see for sure if it is the pump. So if it isnt the pump then our only other guess is bearings. Weve heard numerous reports of acl bearings failing out at the track, apparently alot of the historic racers have been spinning acl bearings.

If anyone has anything to comment on my idea so far then please do. As it stands the crank is pretty severely scored as are the conrods. Infact some of the conrods have no bearings in them at all :happy: They can slop around about 3-4mm each way.

I took a few quick pictures, they are abit crappy as the battery was dying so i rushed them. I will take better ones on the weekend when i have more time and post them.

The blurry pic of the bearing in my hand is not the thrust bearing...its a normal bearing thats deformed and shaped itself in a thrust looking one, the same goes for pretty much the rest of them too.

post-12828-1162466222.jpg

post-12828-1162466307.jpg

post-12828-1162466350.jpg

post-12828-1162466460.jpg

yes we are using a high energy circuit sump it has one day trap doors that only let oil in but not out, i dont see how it could starve it of oil. Oil capacity in the sump is about 8 odd litres also, so there is a fair bit more in there then std. But it is possible.

Yes they were acl race series mains and conrod bearings. The mains were farked, but ok farked...the conrods were just non existent.

yes we are using a high energy circuit sump it has one day trap doors that only let oil in but not out, i dont see how it could starve it of oil. Oil capacity in the sump is about 8 odd litres also, so there is a fair bit more in there then std. But it is possible.

Yes they were acl race series mains and conrod bearings. The mains were farked, but ok farked...the conrods were just non existent.

No joke i tried using acl piston rings 3 times different sets of rings had number 2 compression ring too big and it wouldnt fit in the bores, did you check all the clearances, was there any noise prior?

anyone able to confirm if the rings are the same on the rb30E and RB30ET pistons?

i know the pistons are different, but i have just recieved some ACL rings and they are labelled RB30T rings .

Im also interested in this, just about to order the acl ring set but wich set do i get? obviously the RB30ET rings would be beter as they are almost twice the price. can the RB30ET rings be fitted to the RB30E pistons?

Cheers.

I have had two sets of ACL pistons arrive with incorrect rings. 1st set had a foreign ring that was completely different to all the others, never did find out what it was. And the 2nd set had compression rings that were too thin for the ring lands. So be vigilant when using them, apart from that they are a good piston and a great ring when u get the correct ones :-)

R33 racer - what bearing clearences were you running on your mains and big ends ?

I dont know the clearances mate. The bloke who did all the machining checked all the clearances and inspected everything after he did everything and he reckoned everything was spot on. I think my old man checked em also...but im not positive on that one. But we didnt just slap it all together and go hard with it.

After some thought we think the overall failure was due to a minor oil loss we had a few races ago when the alloy threaded part where your filter screws onto on the water/oil cooler broke off and we lost about 2 litres, however the oil pressure light never came on and there was no knocking or any sign of bearing damage. But it was still possible that during that time if any damage was gonna happen it would have been then. Since that time i guess its just gotten worse and then suddenly the pressure dropped enough to kill the turbo and eventually spin a bunch of bearings. We had noticed the pressure drop, but our oil pressure was always too high 120psi after 3000-3500 and since that time it came back to about 90psi 3000-3500 which is supposed to be about normal for an N1.

dude - check your clearances personally. I pay to have all my engine clearances measured when the machining is conducted, and then I double check them ( which sort of defeats the purpose of me paying for it ) but its one of those things that you got to do. And like the ACL rings I have found errors that would have caused massive failure if I hadnt detected it.

After some thought we think the overall failure was due to a minor oil loss we had a few races ago when the alloy threaded part where your filter screws onto on the water/oil cooler broke off and we lost about 2 litres, however the oil pressure light never came on and there was no knocking or any sign of bearing damage.

Hi Michael,

thanks for talking us through this mate, it's invaluable. re the 'threaded part' snapping off, can i ask what caused it?

Cheers

Can anyone give me advice ?

Is this a good deal for a RB30 build ?

My stocko rb30 shit itself.. I tortured it for 3 years and it said enuf was enuf....

I supplied a stock rb30e engine and its getting

Full clean

Bore out and fit ACL Forged Pistons with rings (new type fully forged)

Scat H beam Rods

Fully Balance from balancer to pressure plate

Decked Block

ACL Race Series Bearings

Full Cometic gasket kit (includes RB25 head gasket and inlet and exhaust and everything thats needed)

Fit everyting and assemble bottom end gaurenteed

$3,300

Can anyone get a better deal or am i onto a good deal.

Please help before i outlay that much cash.. I am looking at gettin the crank collar mod and valve springs done too but thats not included in the price.

Cheers

PS: where is Sydneykid ?

Wow man you have had the same failure as i did but mine was not quite as bad.. i did not have as much shavings in the engine.

Did you use standard ACL bearings or Race series ? i used standard ones and got about 70,000km out of them before i took the engine out and pulled them down.

Mine spun a bearing too and the acl rings i got were totally shot on 5 pistons.. only 1 piston had rings that were not broken.

If ACL race series bearings do this then I might go for better ones.. one of my conrod bearings welded itself to the conrod :no: took ages to get it off (it was the spun one)

Im gona drill a hole through it and hang it on my revision mirror to remind me never take shortcuts again...

cheers lemme know

Alright. We got the motor out tonight and pulled the sump and pump off. First thing we noticed is the massive amount of bearing strips all throughout the sump and block. The pickup was clogged entirely with them and there was patches stuck to parts of the block. I havent had a chance to pull the pump apart to inspect the gears inside, but the backing plate is still on tight and the drive part of the gear is still fully intact with no cracking. The outer ring may be stuffed though. I will fully pull it apart on the weekend to see for sure if it is the pump. So if it isnt the pump then our only other guess is bearings. Weve heard numerous reports of acl bearings failing out at the track, apparently alot of the historic racers have been spinning acl bearings.

If anyone has anything to comment on my idea so far then please do. As it stands the crank is pretty severely scored as are the conrods. Infact some of the conrods have no bearings in them at all :D They can slop around about 3-4mm each way.

I took a few quick pictures, they are abit crappy as the battery was dying so i rushed them. I will take better ones on the weekend when i have more time and post them.

The blurry pic of the bearing in my hand is not the thrust bearing...its a normal bearing thats deformed and shaped itself in a thrust looking one, the same goes for pretty much the rest of them too.

post-12828-1162466222.jpg

post-12828-1162466307.jpg

post-12828-1162466350.jpg

post-12828-1162466460.jpg

i've been meaning to ask a question and it's bugging me so ill ask now. with a normal street driven car that has a fresh engine, they usually get run-in for a certain amount of time. now do u still do this on a race engine?

Is this a good deal for a RB30 build ?

I supplied a stock rb30e engine and its getting

Full clean

Bore out and fit ACL Forged Pistons with rings (new type fully forged)

Scat H beam Rods

Fully Balance from balancer to pressure plate

Decked Block

ACL Race Series Bearings

Full Cometic gasket kit (includes RB25 head gasket and inlet and exhaust and everything thats needed)

Fit everyting and assemble bottom end gaurenteed

$3,300

First up.. Your Scat rods.. This may be of interest.

http://calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t...beam+discussion

Also.. Over at ct.com ACL bearings are not thought of that highly.

However its a good price.

I'm certian you know what I went with:

Wiseco pistons, King HP bearings, rb25 cometic headgasket, std rods resized, block,rods & crank crack tested and all Heinz Balanced etc. That set me back ~$3500

Other bits on top, oil pump, vrs kit, head rebuild/porting, waterpump, cam belt, tensioners etc.

Adds up so quickly. :D

Running in, no we didnt bother with it as we cant drive it on the street and you cant go easy in a race. We did several hours of running it through the rev range and they did abit of running in on the dyno before tuning for a few hours for us. The maintenance plan is a strip down every 12 months and replace worn or suspect parts...bearings, rings or seals and such. So its not as crucial as a road engine that you dont want to touch for at least another 5-10 years.

Edited by r33_racer
Can anyone give me advice ?

Is this a good deal for a RB30 build ?

My stocko rb30 shit itself.. I tortured it for 3 years and it said enuf was enuf....

I supplied a stock rb30e engine and its getting

Full clean

Bore out and fit ACL Forged Pistons with rings (new type fully forged)

Scat H beam Rods

Fully Balance from balancer to pressure plate

Decked Block

ACL Race Series Bearings

Full Cometic gasket kit (includes RB25 head gasket and inlet and exhaust and everything thats needed)

Fit everyting and assemble bottom end gaurenteed

$3,300

Can anyone get a better deal or am i onto a good deal.

Please help before i outlay that much cash.. I am looking at gettin the crank collar mod and valve springs done too but thats not included in the price.

Cheers

PS: where is Sydneykid ?

i was certain that acl didnt make a forged piston that worked for the rb30det. their shop in nz said they didnt and when i contacted acl in aussie they also said they didnt???

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