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Hi fellas,

Just spent the last few days reading the thread >_< Theres some good info here. :laugh:

I've got a few questions that I don't think have been brought up before or if they have they've not been completely answered anyway.

Does anyone have any piston/pin and conrod weights for the standard RB30 parts compared to the aftermarket options ? At the moment I'm looking at CP 9.0 to 1 pistons and Spool rods so would be interested to know if they're lighter or heavier than the standard parts and how they compare to other makes.

I've been looking at balancers from ATI and Ross. The Ross balancers seem to be quite cheap in comparison to the ATI balancers. Are they comparable or are the ATI balancers worth the extra money ?

Does anybody have the correct part number for the ATI balancer I'd need to replace a R33GTS-T series 2 RB25 balancer retaining the Alternator/Power Steering and A/C belts ?

Cheers and happy New Year :O

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um ok everyone i have jus a little question to ask?? i have a rb25det in a stock r33 95model with cooked rings and pistons...all else is fine... crank .. barings head turbo etc... and i also have a rb30 sitting there rotting doing nothing. as i could jus bore and fit new pistons to the rb25 for a cheap fix i was wondering if i could use the rb30 bottom end to my advantage some how to get some extra KW..??... i have only a few K to spend and am very smart at mechanics and electrical is there anyway i can win ?????? or am i jus better doing what i know best and rebuilding the rb25 to standard specs.. please i would like a reply from someone who actually knows wat to do best... i dont want some 500 rwkw monster but mabey chase 250 rwkw somehow????? please anyone with some sensible answers will be much apreciated.....

TKS...................oh and i have a immaculate 300zxtt man totally origonal with very nice 18in alloys for sale pearl yellow. [email protected]

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In my opinion, it'd be far cheaper to do the work to ur rb25 than to do the rb25/30 combination. There's just soo man little things u gotta replace/change when doing a full conversion like this, and it adds up to alot quite quickly.

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i understand wat your saying. and im a pretty confident mechanic are the little things really that expensive or that much trouble to do ?? im looking for a little bit more explanitive answer if you can ??????? please only if you have time??? unlike alot i have read i actually am going to do this within the next few days and really need some good advice from someone.

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so whats the latest with the belt tensioner and belt to use as i am doing this to my head on the next few weeks.

also do you use two tensioners or 1 idler and 1 tensioner ?

Thanks,

Ariel

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ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A

they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps

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Guys;

on the timing belt issue, the preferred way of mounting the tensioners seems to be hi/low, as opposed to close together just above the water pump as in the stock RB26 set up. it appears that the problem with the 2nd method is that the tensioners are too close tegether and there is minimal clearance between the belt surfaces.

has anyone tried to overcome the problem with the 2nd method by using smaller circumference tensioners from another engine thus allowing the use of a shorter belt and creating more clearance between the belt surfaces?

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ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A

they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps

dude your a ledgend! just rang repco picking it up on tuesday. Hope the pitch in the teeth are the same and it sits on the cam/crank gears nice :(

Have to use two tensioners either way you go about fitting the belt, there is plenty of room using the stock position there is just no way the timming belt could foul. Although the two inner sides of the belt are close, the belt is at its tightest point with least movement.

Edited by kaige
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The belts being close together on the two lower tensioners really doesn't bother me.

Its the length of the belt from the cam gears to the tensioners. The RB30 block is ~38mm longer... but on the other hand the sohc RB30 runs the cam belt the same way but with only a single tensioner so that also shouldn't be an issue.

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i understand wat your saying. and im a pretty confident mechanic are the little things really that expensive or that much trouble to do ?? im looking for a little bit more explanitive answer if you can ??????? please only if you have time??? unlike alot i have read i actually am going to do this within the next few days and really need some good advice from someone.

gaskets, oil seals really aren't cheap. plus i did an rb26/30, so i cant give u in depth details of what you need to do, i have a rough idea, but i havnt done it to a 25/30. I'm sure some of the others will be able to give u a run down though :)

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gaskets, oil seals really aren't cheap. plus i did an rb26/30, so i cant give u in depth details of what you need to do, i have a rough idea, but i havnt done it to a 25/30. I'm sure some of the others will be able to give u a run down though :)

ok thanks mate....... well i will ask you something else then. the pistons in the bores seem fairly loose could i jus chuck em back in with new rings and make a goer for now ???

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ok thanks mate....... well i will ask you something else then. the pistons in the bores seem fairly loose could i jus chuck em back in with new rings and make a goer for now ???

depends what condition your bores & bearings are in, and i'd be double checking the clearances also.

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ok guys i just went through the whole timming belt thing if you want to use a 150 tooth belt go to you local auto one or repco and ask them fo a AUSTRAL timing belt T306A

they are in syd an i got mine in about an hour there 150tooth abd 23mm wide cost is $70 hope that helps

I'm also keen to know if this belt fits the tooth profile.

Does anyone know for certain what the thread size is for the RB30 oil pressure switch? Can fit an 1/8 NPT-27 tap in there but won't accept a sender of the same size. I think it's metric but not sure.

Edited by Scooby
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300zx...

If the RB30 is going in to a RWD then its very straight forward and will cost the same as rebuilding the RB25 with the ONLY exception being the head modification for VCT IF you run an R33 GTST head.

If its going in to a GTS4 or GTR then there is quite a few added little costs with lots little buggering around to get everything to fit.

RWD + RB30.. Piece of piss. :dry:

When I dropped my motor in and everything bolted up I sat there for a second looking, double checking and triple checking everything was ok and in as it seemed all too easy. Started her up on the stock ecu and drove it like that for close to 10k. :)

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I'm also keen to know if this belt fits the tooth profile.

Does anyone know for certain what the thread size is for the RB30 oil pressure switch? Can fit an 1/8 NPT-27 tap in there but won't accept a sender of the same size. I think it's metric but not sure.

i just went and did a check, it looks to be imperial, as i checked it with a 1.25 and a 1.50 pitch taps and the 1.25 is slightly too big.

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if its not 1/8 npt...it will be 1/8 bsp. The two will look exactly the same until you put a thread pitch gauge on it and see or something else that you know has a certain pitch. Either way its tapering.

I sent an e-mail to twinvl who made this site: http://www.users.bigpond.com/allanreynolds...enewtwinvl.html

He's now using the same belt p/n T306 due to the gates not fitting properly so should be all fine!

Edited by kaige
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