R33 Rb30 Conversion

[@irborne]

that's what he told me also. the t306 is a 23mm belt, not sure how it measure up to the 25mm ones??~!? anyone care to chime in on this

[Scooby]

Just had another look at the guide, it talks about grinding fins off the sump on the RB26 to accomodate the longer throw. Can anyone please provide further explanation or a pic - the engine builder measured it all up and can't see where the interference might be; I was there when he did it and I'm not sure either.

Cheers

[Cubes]

I too just noticed I included the rb26 in to the list.

I'm certain you don't have to do this with the 26 as they run a sump adapter that is a good 15-20mm or what ever it is + I can't remember if the 26 sump did have the scrapers in place, no doubt they do though.

The Rb20/25 sump most definitely.

[Scooby]

  Cubes said:

I too just noticed I included the rb26 in to the list.

I'm certain you don't have to do this with the 26 as they run a sump adapter that is a good 15-20mm or what ever it is + I can't remember if the 26 sump did have the scrapers in place, no doubt they do though.

The Rb20/25 sump most definitely.

Adapter plates are only about 10mm. Speaking of scrapers, I think you've hit on something there (no pun intended). In a previous post I asked if people adapt them to the RB30 girdle and it seems generally not. Thinking about it now, I reckon there's a chance they would hit the rods anyway but can't be sure as we didn't use scrapers either. From memory when we checked the clearance carefully, at BDC the rod comes down to about the same level as the girdle, and there's significant clearance between the bottom of the girdle and the closest part of the sump.

[shanef]

The Rb26/30 adapter plates are 10mm. I havnt used the scraper plates in my motor, and as discussed earlier, if u drill and tap (u'll also need to countersink the girdle for the little washers welded to the plates) you'll prolly just weaken the girdle. An alternative is to get a custom girdle made, i'm able to do them, but dont have the funds unless otheres were interested in one aswell.

[R31Nismoid]

Ok guys, im on a cleaning mission.

So far i've chopped about 120 posts from the thread, maybe a few more.

So im aiming to cut this thread down by at the least 500 posts, if not get it under 4000 total

It'll probably take me the best part of a month i reckon.

So form here on in, please ensure you have read the thread/searched as if you ask a question... you post might well go missing as i havent got time to PM each person as i remove thier post if it was asked/previously answered.

Cheers -Ash

[aphid]

Just confirming peoples oppinions on how to mod the VCT appropriatly with a few pics

thanks guys

Edited January 3, 2007 by aphid

[Guilt-Toy]

when putting my new engine together i had a mental blank about where the idler goes on my block so i looked on my laptop and found a rb30 guide (one of the first releases like 2 years old) and got the info i needed to get the belt on properly...

Guide gets another thumbs up!

[Adriano]

  aphid said:

Just confirming peoples oppinions on how to mod the VCT appropriatly with a few pics

thanks guys

Correct, you will need to screw a 1/8 bsp to -3 fitting into the head, then a -3 90deg hose end onto that to clear the timing belt, then make sure you fit a 1mm restrictor to the other end of the hose where it T's into the oil pressue sender(Thats what i do anyway)

[aphid]

cheers mate

  Adriano said:

Correct, you will need to screw a 1/8 bsp to -3 fitting into the head, then a -3 90deg hose end onto that to clear the timing belt, then make sure you fit a 1mm restrictor to the other end of the hose where it T's into the oil pressue sender(Thats what i do anyway)

[kaige]

Hey guys Ive bought the belt T306 and it fits fine with the second tensioner in the standard position and leaves safe amount of room between the gap. Although i cant line up both cams in their exact position where marked on the backing plate while having the crank at TDC. One of the cam gears has to sit 3/4 of a tooth advanced/retarded. Or you could just have them both out a little bit.

Looks like you have to have at least one adjustable cam gear to use this belt to have perfect timming alignment on the engine.

Anyone else have the same issue when fitting this belt?

Oh, and because its an audi belt repco try'd to sting me $190 big ones... still $115 at trade price is prety deer!

[SirRacer]

just for information im running an rb20e sump on my rb30e and it cleared fine with no problems fin wise.

am also interested in hearing that its a bit out timing wise with that belt.

so cubes guide has a differently positioned tensioner and this one uses the same tensioner however the cams are out of alignment???

[Cubes]

SirRacer..

Its possible the rb30e sump is the same as the rb20e sump. If not then it may spin over by hand fine but be a little noise once the motors started.

Regarding the positioned tensioner..

I used 2 tensioners and the gates belt that was ~$30.

Everything lined up perfectly, I know 3 other RB's here in SA that have used the same method, I've seen only 2 of them with their covers off and both have lined up perfectly.

Are you looking at it at eye level? Not doing so will have it looking out.

I've got pics of my own if you wish to see how spot on it all lines up.

[Scooby]

  Cubes said:

Regarding the positioned tensioner..

I used 2 tensioners and the gates belt that was ~$30.

Everything lined up perfectly, I know 3 other RB's here in SA that have used the same method, I've seen only 2 of them with their covers off and both have lined up perfectly.

Are you looking at it at eye level? Not doing so will have it looking out.

I've got pics of my own if you wish to see how spot on it all lines up.

I thought the Gates belt had a problem with the tooth profile? Did you use the stock or high/low tensioner configuration on yours?

[kaige]

Ive had abit of a play and persisted with it but i managed to get good tension with only a pifteenth of advance on the cam wheels... The engine is on a stand so im looking at it directly front on.

I just spoke to my tuner/mechanic and he said serlong as its a fraction advanced and not retarted it should be fine.

I'm happy with where the belt is sitting now after talking to him and dont think i need an adjustable cam gear at this stage see how it go's once its running!

[Cubes]

  Scooby said:

I thought the Gates belt had a problem with the tooth profile? Did you use the stock or high/low tensioner configuration on yours?

Sorry, it was the dayco belt I used lol. Its been close to 2years and I haven't looked at the guide for some time.

I used the usual high/low tensioner config. Both were tensioners as to obtain the correct belt tension.

[SirRacer]

the rb30e sump is slightly deeper than the rb20e sump. my engine went into a cefiro and we needed the space as the 30 sump would have hit the crossmember

my brother overfilled the engine and i can report than an rb30 can hold more than 10 litres :-)

[r33_racer]

10 litres....Are you sure? We only had 9litres with our high energy circuit sump. That was with cooler, filter and lines and being slightly over filled.

[SilverECR33]

Great thread, loads of info. looks like im doing my comp ratio calculations the hard way /:(

Edited January 6, 2007 by silverbulletR33

[Cubes]

  silverbulletR33 said:

OK, So i have a rb30 DE block, but obviously dont want to use the pistons, as ill burn them and throw a rod under high boost, so my question is.

Not unless your pushing mid 20psi and over 300rwkw. The stock items provided the car is tuned well hangs in there without problems. Detonation.... And you will crack ring lands.

There's one bloke thats been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 bottom end thats running stock rods but precision hyperutetic pistons with a rev limit ~7000rpm. He mentioned not to go ACL hyperutetic pistons as they are not so good at high power levels.

So they are definitely tough motors.