Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
I'd like to know how that bloke went who was running his plazman on the rb25det runners.

Scooby? or someone I think? I can't remember.

Guilt Toy is running the plazma man on his rb30, and i will too. unfortunatly the change cant be measured as we both already have it installed.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Either way if it makes its peak power up over 6000rpm and holds power well then we know the plazman is working well.

Am-Performance's has a stock exh. manifold, HAD a stock plenum and that nosed over after 5500rpm.

Bolt the plenum on and it just wants to keep making power over 7000rpm and most importantly holding power. Just his valve springs are currently letting the package down.

If it still noses over with the plazman then we know the inlet runners are the killer, do note that Ripz that has been playing with RB30dets since the dawn of time throws short runner gtr style plenums on all of his 30det's. ;)

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
well shit...uninstall it and do a power run...then reinstall it...god take one for the team ya slackers :P

HAHAHHAHA

i dont think so ;)

Either way if it makes its peak power up over 6000rpm and holds power well then we know the plazman is working well.

Am-Performance's has a stock exh. manifold, HAD a stock plenum and that nosed over after 5500rpm.

Bolt the plenum on and it just wants to keep making power over 7000rpm and most importantly holding power. Just his valve springs are currently letting the package down.

If it still noses over with the plazman then we know the inlet runners are the killer, do note that Ripz that has been playing with RB30dets since the dawn of time throws short runner gtr style plenums on all of his 30det's. :ninja:

yeah i have seen the RIPs plenums, we will see.. only 1 thing left before i build the engine and that is to take apart a spare rb25 oil pump and make sure its all in good condition, then i'll bolt it together and see how we go.

guess we'll have to wait and see..

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
sydneykid was building rb30's before RIPS and says the inlet poses no restriction. in the thread you posted up re the plenum the results were not considerable enough to put it down to that as being a restriction.

When did SydneyKid say it poses no restriction/isnt the case of power nosing over early in that thread?

Have another read of the thread. Nothing of the like was said.

Sydneykid said (refering to the dyno sheet attached) one is better off with a motor that doesn't rev where you shift up early as the motor will be more reliable and it will accelerate quicker (more low mid torque) so a peaky power curve rather than a wide power curve.

HOWEVER... With a GT35r this is not the case as the power band is too narrow, SK then went on to say well its poorly setup and shouldn't be run. etc etc.. Which is true.

A GT35r .82 on an Rb30DET with the stock plenum is a bad setup. They need a plenum simple as that.

Run a GT30 and I believe with the stock plenum its a near perfect match.

I have seen it with my own eyes. It is what causes the rb30det's to nose over early.

The attached dyno sheet was the back to back run at 8psi, no ebc, 2.5" exhaust.

The before power run was tuned nicely. The after power run only had its afr's tidied up as 800cc twin sprays were dropped in. NO ignition was touched. So its quite possible there were gains to be had.

Do what you will... :P Myself and my tuner knows what prevents the rb30det's making power up close to 7000rpm. If the car that makes its peak power at 5500rpm is faster than the one that makes its peak power at 7000rpm is irrelevant.

So choose what sort of motor you want. A turbo diesel or a higher reving typical sports car motor.

The comparison dyno sheet attached is of:

RED: An rb30det setup (gt35r .82), stock plenum, stock exh manifold, Tomei 260duration 9mm cams, an EBC, 3" exhaust, 19psi ON AVGAS.

Blue: the 8psi setup, no ebc, stock cams, aftermarket plenum, afr's tidied up, no ign tweaking ON PULP.

Green: 17psi, no ebc but a bleeder, stock cams, aftermarket plenum and a little valve float. 1bar made 265rwkw, 2psi more (17psi) made another 5rwkw due to valve float. PULP.

Do what you will with those results. There's more of others with aftermarket exh. manifolds and stock plenums still nosing over but I don't have the dyno sheets.

My bets are throw AVGAS in to the blue/green rb30det, ditch the 2.5" and drop on a 3", the set of 260duration 9mm cams and boost will come on just as early BUT still hold to a higher rpm.

post-382-1169459346.jpg

post-382-1169459504.jpg

cordiapower Collaborator

cordiapower

Posted
Posted

I have a problem for rb30 experts: I put rebuilt rb30/25 in my r33. I found out just after 1500km that car was stalling whenever the clutch pedal is pressed and was loosing oil pressure and short after oil pressure lamp was turning on and after some checks oil pressure to the head was zero. The engine was pulled apart and we found out that central thrust bearing in the middle of crankshaft has grinded one sidewall and snapped that side off completely blocking oil flow...what could cause this? Bear in mind that car has all new parts weisco forged pistons, rb30 rods, race bearings and done only 1500km?

thanks

cordiapower Collaborator

cordiapower

Posted
Posted
I have a problem for rb30 experts: I put rebuilt rb30/25 in my r33. I found out just after 1500km that car was stalling whenever the clutch pedal is pressed and was loosing oil pressure and short after oil pressure lamp was turning on and after some checks oil pressure to the head was zero. The engine was pulled apart and we found out that central thrust bearing in the middle of crankshaft has grinded one sidewall and snapped that side off completely blocking oil flow...what could cause this? Bear in mind that car has all new parts weisco forged pistons, rb30 rods, race bearings and done only 1500km?

thanks

If it matters its got Extreme heavy duty 9 pack ceramic brass button 2500lb pressure plate clutch

cordiapower Collaborator

cordiapower

Posted
Posted (edited)

no oil flow happened after 1500km and its due to snapped central bearing (one side of it snapped) in the middle of crankshaft, im wondering why did it happen after only 1500km and how could it snap in such a short time?

How did it last 1500km then?
Edited by cordiapower
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
perhaps a faulty bearing?

further on that, perhaps the crank was machined too far for the bearing? meaning that thecrank was able to shift forward or back, which cracked it ...

similar to the clearance a big end bearing requires, im sure that the thrust bearings have them too.

Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted

maybe check the end float on the crank. if there was too much end float or the crank was able to move back and forth along its axis for some other reason it would do so when the clutch was manipulated. if the crank moves far enough it will shift the bearings and there goes your oil pressure.

IF the clutch and stalling are really related rather than seeming to be that way, it could be that when the clutch is depressed it moves the clutch and flywheel - and crank if there's enough float - so far that the side loading on the pistons creates enough friction to stall the car at idle.

this suggestion could be really wide of the mark but it's the best one i can think of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...