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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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humz Proficient

humz

Posted
Posted
hi guys i have these pistons

AP340754 Arias - Arias Forged Pistons Rb30 Non-turbo 86.5mm Bore Supplied With Rings

how good are they for this conversion???

what comp ration would it give with 1.5mm head gasket and rb25 vvt head?? and the block has been faced if that makes a big diff (not sure how much tho)

the non-turbo pistons are better for this conversion yee? or is that just the standard non-turbo pistons which are better??

whats teh differance in strength between the turbo and non turbo pistons?

any help yet guys???

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

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cordiapower Collaborator

cordiapower

Posted
Posted

could it be that gearbox was not properly installed, or as rb30 crank end was machined to have better grip for n1 oil pump drive that something was changed causing gearbox not to sit properly and making crank to be pushed against block hence causing crank central thrust bearing to snap...

maybe check the end float on the crank. if there was too much end float or the crank was able to move back and forth along its axis for some other reason it would do so when the clutch was manipulated. if the crank moves far enough it will shift the bearings and there goes your oil pressure.

IF the clutch and stalling are really related rather than seeming to be that way, it could be that when the clutch is depressed it moves the clutch and flywheel - and crank if there's enough float - so far that the side loading on the pistons creates enough friction to stall the car at idle.

this suggestion could be really wide of the mark but it's the best one i can think of.

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Godzilla33 Community Regular

Godzilla33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Timing belt setup: I picked up a Dayco 94830 belt today, 149 teeth in the 8mm pitch we need. Fits a treat, 11mm between the teeth with the 2 tensioner bearings in the low low setup. Still clears the lower cover, but only just... nothin a quick massage with the gentle persuader didnt fix, now theres heaps of clearance (5mm ish)

All the timing marks line up perfectly. Belt cost $35.00 + $15.00 to get it here (direct from Dayco through Coventry) Hope this helps.

Edited by Godzilla33
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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I have a problem for rb30 experts: I put rebuilt rb30/25 in my r33. I found out just after 1500km that car was stalling whenever the clutch pedal is pressed and was loosing oil pressure and short after oil pressure lamp was turning on and after some checks oil pressure to the head was zero. The engine was pulled apart and we found out that central thrust bearing in the middle of crankshaft has grinded one sidewall and snapped that side off completely blocking oil flow...what could cause this? Bear in mind that car has all new parts weisco forged pistons, rb30 rods, race bearings and done only 1500km?

thanks

Too much crankshaft end float, happens all the time.

:( cheers :(

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Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted
Timing belt setup: I picked up a Dayco 94830 belt today, 149 teeth in the 8mm pitch we need. Fits a treat, 11mm between the teeth with the 2 tensioner bearings in the low low setup. Still clears the lower cover, but only just... nothin a quick massage with the gentle persuader didnt fix, now theres heaps of clearance (5mm ish)

All the timing marks line up perfectly. Belt cost $35.00 + $15.00 to get it here (direct from Dayco through Coventry) Hope this helps.

nice work

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

She lives...the new motor fired up just fine this morning...no major problems yet lol. The dry sump system seems to be working fine...no leaks and the oil pressure is pretty well spot on...Only real issue is the heat now, with no clutch fan cause of the dry sump setup, were running twin thermos and they dont push anywhere near as much air. Ill have to get some photos in here sometime soon too.

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Nice.. :miner:

What size thermo's are you running?

I've ran 2 x 12" thermo's and I found the same, they didn't push enough air. HOWEVER they were mounted directly on the radiator and not on a shroud like they should have been.

As for what fan to run.. Have you considered a set of EL/EF thermo's? 'Apparently' people have had no issues with overheating when running those.

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Im pretty sure they are 12" also. Ive got a pretty good feeling its going to need a set of larger twins.

Funny you should mention EL...my brother was just changing his wheel bearings in his falcon. Maybe he wont notice it missing hey lol.

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Scooby Veteran

Scooby

Posted
Posted
Im pretty sure they are 12" also. Ive got a pretty good feeling its going to need a set of larger twins.

Funny you should mention EL...my brother was just changing his wheel bearings in his falcon. Maybe he wont notice it missing hey lol.

get em while they're hot...

congrats on getting the beast to run.

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discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi Cubes , you say the EL fans fit between the A/C condenser and the radiator so in front and push fans so to speak ? I'd be interested to see pics as well . I can't help thinking fans behind the radiator would work better because in a propper shroud they can draw air from the total core area rather than pushing from the front and only over as much area as the fan/s themselves .

Incidently I came across a radiator and twin fan assembly from a Maxima (can't remember 2.4 or 3.0 L) . It looked sort of similar to an R32 GTR rad and a good relatively slim set of fans in its shroud .

I have some theories on cooling strategies but a O/T here , over to FI .

Cheers A .

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Yes as Alf has stated.

I don't know for sure on the 33's but I've slipped one behind my r32 rad and its a nice fit. It does require a slight nip and tuck but nothing major.

And they really push some air.

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Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
She lives...the new motor fired up just fine this morning...no major problems yet lol. The dry sump system seems to be working fine...no leaks and the oil pressure is pretty well spot on...Only real issue is the heat now, with no clutch fan cause of the dry sump setup, were running twin thermos and they dont push anywhere near as much air. Ill have to get some photos in here sometime soon too.

I have found that a large single fan (Davies Craig) moves more air than twins.

:P cheers :D

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discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure if I'm really sold on elec fan/s in road cars (RWD) , I think its a flawed system that lets things get fairly hot before intervening and then dumps a lot of heat into the engine bay . At least with an engine driven fan its the thermostat regulating the coolant temperature (assumes the rad and fan can cope) and its not an on/off thing over a set heat range . OEM conditions where manufacturers like things hotter than I do it seems to cope somehow .

Cheers A .

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