R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Godzilla33]

Hey guys, Question. What harmonic balancer has anyone been using other than std RB25? been lookin at ATI, any recomendations on this? anyone know where to get one from in Bris?

Also, anyone done any sump mods with trapdoors, extra volume etc? curious on swaybar clearance & design. Thanks!

Edited July 28, 2007 by Godzilla33

[sweetr33]

more of a chat room than a r33 rb30 conversion thread as topic headlines, hard to sift through the chit chat to find the info needed....

[Scooby]

OK the turbos are back on and the biatch has been on the dyno;

R34N1s with long style dumps and 3"exhaust

Stock injectors, pump and ecu

Blitz pods (haven't got the stock airbox to fit yet. it's a real pain in the ass so I think I'll go K&N pods with a fabbed airbox anyway)

10 psi

220rwk@6500 power curve flattened out so prob not much left. Rich on boost, dipping into 10:1

Running really rich also on part throttle when bimbling around, 2nd gear 40km/h etc. Can hear a very slight unneveness/burble but very smooth on boost. Not sure why this is since it's the stock ecu.

300rwkw should be achievable with boost, a tune and bigger pump/squirters

[Al]

Hey guys, Question. What harmonic balancer has anyone been using other than std RB25? been lookin at ATI, any recomendations on this? anyone know where to get one from in Bris?

Also, anyone done any sump mods with trapdoors, extra volume etc? curious on swaybar clearance & design. Thanks!

From what i have been told: "ATI balancer = work of art"

So i bought one and my engine machinist and mechanic agree.

I am also fitting a H.E. Racing, 8.5ltr, baffled sump. Shouldn't have any issues with fitment, but i am a long way off from that stage, so can't really comment at this stage.

[Scooby]

mind if I ask how much the ATI cost you?

[Spoolup]

ATI dont make RB30 or RB25 balancers, only RB26

Which is fine, but the spacings on the pulleys is different so you cant run your ( P/S or A/C cant remember - on your RB25 ) with out shimming it.

Hope that makes sense.

[Al]

Sure does....... forgot to mention that, mainly because my mechanic will sort it out Not too sure if i'm correct here; the rb26 balancer runs a different type of belt (Slotted Vs V-grove), but my mechanic has already found a solution.

ATI rb26 1000hp = approx $1100 retail

ATI rb26 600hp = $580: That is the price i paid through my mechanic. The 600hp will well exceed my needs, as it can support about 400rwkw, and i am hoping to get about 300ish rwkw, using a GT30R (0.82)

[r33_racer]

rb25 power steering needs shimming forward for the belt to line up properly.

[Scooby]

ATI rb26 1000hp = approx $1100 retail

ATI rb26 600hp = $580: That is the price i paid through my mechanic. The 600hp will well exceed my needs, as it can support about 400rwkw, and i am hoping to get about 300ish rwkw, using a GT30R (0.82)

you've got my attention, I didn't know there was a 600hp balancer option for the RB26 - was never keen on paying $1000 for a balancer, particularly on an engine that spins more slowly than the RB26. do you know where he got it from? i'd be keen to get one myself.

cheers

[RB120WHY]

What's the point??? A GT35R (0.63) will produce similar results as a GT30R (0.82). I would personally go with the gt30r, with the 0.82 housing, as it would give a broader range of power. You may find that the 0.63 housing will choke the rb30, higher up in the rev range, causing the power to drop dramatically.

Even a GT35R (0.82) would be a great combo on a rb30det/t

Thanks... I already have a GT35R (0.63 exh) from my RB20. Didn't want to buy another turbo if i didn't have too.

Cheers

[Godzilla33]

Sweet, Thanks guys! I had a feeling the power steer pully was 4 groove on GTR n only 3 on Gts. Does the A/C belt still line up fine with the same belt type? wasnt sure whether I had to buy GTR power steer pump or just get modifed pully, or still just run the 3 groove belt. How much did you have to shim it out R33 Racer? Thanks for the prices Al, where did you get yours from?

[r33_racer]

shit mate...thats really testing the memory. I think somewhere in the vacinity of 6-8mm. I believe if you use an sr20 power steering pump you can just run it off the aircon line. However the ratio would be all messed up. I dont know about the a/c line as ive never used it with that balancer, our dry sump pump runs where it normally goes. Actually everyone i know who runs one of the ati dampners doesnt run a/c so i cant even ask.

[Al]

I will ask my mechanic on how he intends to adapt the ATI RB26 balancer, in regards to a/c and p/s from the rb25.

I know he went through Rocket Industries, for the ATI balancer. I may have gotten a good price, or maybe i didn't, i'm not sure.

RB120WHY: Fair point. Hopefully i didn't sound to offensive with my comments

[BAMR33]

What is the safest option for an oil pump on a budget 25/30? The motor won't be revved above 7500rpm, the motor will be used with VCT, no oil squirters and I will have one block off restrictor in the head and an external oil return to the sump.

At the moment I have easy access to an rb30 NA pump, the stock rb25det pump or I also can get a hold of an rb30et pump. Now the problem is I'm not keen on using an rb25det pump as they have a larger gear width than the drive which requires a crank collar and this involves machining and as far as I've seen the only crank collars I've come across are for rb26? Do these also fit rb25?

The other option is using the standard na or turbo rb30 pump which I believe does not require a crank collar? Not sure if this true, but at least the gear width is the same. What I'm thinking is the rb30 oil pumps supply less pressure and flow than rb25det pump, which I'm not sure is a problem or not? Since it will not need to feed oil squirters.

Can some one clear this up for me... If the rb30 pumps do require a crank collar I'll be just as well using the rb25 pump. However at the revs and power level I'm aiming for maybe the rb25, rb30 pumps won't even need a collar?

Edited July 29, 2007 by BAMR33

[GTRgeoff]

The RB25 pump is the same as an RB26 pump. Flows the same, holds the same FAST part number. The pump drive is a point of concern so get the collar fitted, as they all need them else they would not have standardised the drive width later. I have a number of nasty images of the short drive and what can happen to the pump, RB30 and later RB25/26 as well as those N1 pieces of junk.

This is not the the thing to try save a few bucks on. There are diminishing returns in other areas but oil supply failure is catastrophic for the motor. Good luck with the build.

[Cubes]

Bam33.

Definitely don't skimp on this. Its only a few hundred more for the collar and fitting. Run an rb25 pump and be done with it.

[BAMR33]

Yeah $400 installed is cheaper and less time consuming than a new engine, but I was just under the impression the rb30 pumps had a full length drive and might not suffer engagement issues as much, if at all.

[GTRgeoff]

Brett, it isn't the length of the drive in the pump, but the contact area. Smaller contact areas result in higher impulse loads and ultimately decreased pump life, especially if you hit the rev limiter too much.

While you are at it make sure the pump is dismantled, guaged to ensure it is good and the the screws loctited in.

$400 seems a bit much considering I paid 1400 for all my machining and balancing.

[BAMR33]

Brett, it isn't the length of the drive in the pump, but the contact area. Smaller contact areas result in higher impulse loads and ultimately decreased pump life, especially if you hit the rev limiter too much.

While you are at it make sure the pump is dismantled, guaged to ensure it is good and the the screws loctited in.

$400 seems a bit much considering I paid 1400 for all my machining and balancing.

Yeah, I'm not too sure on installed prices that was just based on other peoples estimates. I'll probably call pro engines tomorrow see what their pricing is like.

Edited July 29, 2007 by BAMR33

[r33_racer]

bought our collar for like 200(jun) and it was fitted for another 80bux.