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R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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CEF11E Veteran

CEF11E

Posted
Posted

well it took me 3 weeks but I have just finished reading this whole thread. damn what a novel...

I had a bit of a busy weekend and the RB30det is well and truly under way.

I pulled the RB30E out of the R31 and stripped it down and removed the head. Stupidly i forgot to loosen the harmonic balancer before pulling the motor.

the engine has been rebuilt recently there are hone marks in the bores, pistons look like brand new no carbon, head gasket and timing belt aftermarket and a new tensioner :D so happy times! no piston slap and all in really good condition. I am going to use the bottom end as is.

the head RB25DE R33 is also in excellent condition and will be used as is. the springs are the same as R33 turbo ones. I have drilled and tapped a new feed for teh VCT. a M10 x 1.25 thread. I have also blocked the original gallery with a M8 x 1.25 once it was drilled and tapped and used locktite.

I am using the 149 teeth dayco belt with 2 tensioner s in the standard position.

things i need to know is.

1. where the hell have u guys got your oil supply for vct fittings? every car parts place i went to did note have 1/8 npt fittings. not even pirtek!

2. What is the best way of getting off the harmonic balancer and flywheel bolts? I am guessing a rattle gun? also what size is the ballancer nut? 26mm spanner JUST to small. 28mm to big? is it metric?

3. what is the best way to remove the current engine and transmission. I removed the gearbox and motor from the R31 in one piece with a crane and it wasn't to hard. but i did cut the front of the car off first :) am i better off removing the gearbox before i take the motor out? I am guessing putting it back in in one piece will be a hell of a lot easier.

I am hoping to have it all in and started in a month. so far it has been plain sailing. this is the biggest project i have undertaken yet and i am taking my time, my power goal is only 250rwkw. this is the maximum the turbo will supply anyway and I think that is enough in a responsive r32 with torque.

any help appreciated :)

cheers dudes!

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Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

CEF11E,

I bought a 27mm socket and used the breaker bar; it was on damn tight I can't see you removing it without the motor being in the car with a gearbox hooked up. I have used a rattle gun in the past; worked well but it does have to have some balls behind it.

When I dropped the RB30DET in I removed the rb20det with gearbox attached; bolted the gearbox to the rb30det and slid it in.

This was done over a pit which made life a lot easier.

Radiator was obviously out and had a piece of wood protecting the a/c condenser.

10mins max and the motor was in position. Ahh exciting times it was. :)

2GUUP,

I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more.

To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place.

BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up.

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Scooby Veteran

Scooby

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whos done the low low tensioner setup

ive got an issue with my belt tension

its seems really really tight

ive got two tensioners in the stock position

and the dayco 149 tooth belt

mate i tried it, as far as i'm concerned it doesn't work properly due to the belt being overtight. made all sorts of measurements and turned up a dummy pulley out of plastic to see if i could get an idea of what measurement would work with a 149 tooth belt and 30mm diameter seemed right. looked everywhere for that diameter tensioner but none of them were up to the load rating. suffice to say one tooth makes a ridiculous amount of difference to the pulley diam and a 150 tooth belt had so much slack that there was bugger all clearance left when it was tensioned.

it was 'pain in my a$$holes...'

even had the NSK bearing tech guys looking for me but they couldn't find anything either so in the end i went with the hi/low setup.

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GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

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I've never ran with 2 down low but even with 1 low 1 high the belt is really tight to get on. Near impossible. If I were to do it again I would position the tensioner 1mm towards the centre more.

To get mine on I have to position the cam belt with the lower tensioner loose and then slide the top tensioner on. There was no way I was able to slide the belt on with the tensioner already located in place.

BUT once all on the belt still had a little too much slack which required slight pinching up.

I think you mean 1mm further away from the centre to add a tiny amount of slack. Using the guide measurements mine is in the perfect location without having to tension the belt using one tensioner high and an idler low. When I install the belt I use a high tensile bolt instead of a stud and just locate the tensioner and start threading the bolt. Makes for less offset tension in the installation but the bolt does need to be well prepped with a quality thread sealer tape.

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GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
hey guys does the rb25de neo head water/oil galleries line up to rb30 bottom end??

despite vct though coz im going to keep it...

HELP!!

Mate, not everything has to be a massive drama so take it easy, think and do some more reading. Sure there is a lot to get through but it's worth it. spoolup is running a neo head so they must line up reasonably well.

How about get a head gasket and overlay it to see if it will line up?? Take photos and post them up to add to the knowledge base while you are at it.

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ill_lh Contributor

ill_lh

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Mate, not everything has to be a massive drama so take it easy, think and do some more reading. Sure there is a lot to get through but it's worth it. spoolup is running a neo head so they must line up reasonably well.

How about get a head gasket and overlay it to see if it will line up?? Take photos and post them up to add to the knowledge base while you are at it.

cheers mate.. ive decided to go with an injected turbo 202 instead.. lack of funds.. should still get about 400 hp at the wheels though...

im going to keep my s2 block though to do this in the near future...

thanks for all your input, AWESOME thread guys!!!!

keep it up!!!

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Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

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Posted

Guys quick question, my engine was built by Ricol Automotive and it looks like they've re-used the original RB30 oil pump. Since ive got the engine on a stand I figured I might as well bolt a new one up, but realise its too late to fit a crank collar. The RB30 oil pump from nissan is $1000 (just priced one) Can I fit an N1 pump and will it be ok providing I dont exceed 7k rpm?

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted (edited)

if you use an n1 oil pump, change the relief spring to a std rb25 one or rb20 one. Something that runs a lower relief pressure, the n1 pump will provide way too much pressure and you will suffer like cubes said.

Edited by r33_racer
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BAMR33 Mentor

BAMR33

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Only standard restrictors unfortunately :)

If you haven't got litres of oil in your catch can you don't really need the restrictors, just over fill the sump a bit to ensure a good supply of oil.

People have spoken of the n1 pump being brittle and more prone to damage by bad harmonics, so the n1 would probably break before the rb30 pump. A few people on this forum run rb30, rb25 without a crank collar, I think the rb30 pump will be fine for 7000rpm or maybe just put an rb25 one in, due to it having less age on it.

Edited by BAMR33
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Godzilla33 Community Regular

Godzilla33

Posted
Posted
What have you done with regards to oil restrictors?

The N1 pump with std restrictors is a bad thing.

what size restrictors do you recommend? Ive got an N1 pump with collar & ATI balancer, I havnt got any restrictors yet. I have removed the old ones. why change the relief spring?

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