R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Godzilla33]

problem is older engine in newer car is a no no from the RTA, emissions....

Edited October 20, 2007 by Godzilla33

[S13/r32 maniac]

so how are people getting away with rb30 blocks on twin cam heads?

Edited October 20, 2007 by S13/r32 maniac

[TiTAN]

isn't all the emissions control on the RB series engines in the head anyway? the bottom end would have very little to do with the emissions control. newer head = better emissions control, or am i thinking incorrectly?

[SirRacer]

i dont know about you guys but all of the rb cam covers and timing covers are interchangable and the block isnt massively different in height (not that an old school mechanic would notice) so why do you need to?

perhaps thats a very NZ attitude, but i dont plan to cert my rb30det. With rb20 timing cover it should be fine!

[Craved]

Well if Guilt-Toy can engineer his, then if your ready to finish your cars mods, then engineering it for legalities is a good thing, and something I plan on doing.

Atleast in NSW the emmissions are based on your cars manufacturing year, not the motor, also this new motor size is governed by Forced or N/A plus litrage Vs Car weight.

[Cubes]

Regarding emissions. Its the same over here in SA.

The problem with using an old bottom end and head combination is that it is extremely difficult for it to meet the newer vehicle emission standards. hence the old you can't use an old motor in a newer car thing. This isn't a problem with the rb30det as providing the bottom end is setup correctly (compression, quench) the head is what determines how clean the motor runs.

I haven't came across anything in SA that places restrictions on forced or N/A plus litreage Vs Car weight. No doubt there is though.

It would be interesting how well these metal cats work during emission testing/tuning. I believe guilt-toy used a compliance standard type cat.

If to pass emissions test it requires the use of a restrictive cat and overly restrictive exhaust power out puts could be severely restricted.

BUT I guess at least if the car is defected with a louder exhaust etc its easy enough to throw on the passable exhaust and have it pass the inspection rather than worry about if they will discover the 3ltr under there.

[S13/r32 maniac]

so are people in qld who use rb30 bottom ends just putting them in and not changing engine numbers or anything like that or are they getting mod plates for these rb30det's

[Adriano]

i dont know about you guys but all of the rb cam covers and timing covers are interchangable and the block isnt massively different in height (not that an old school mechanic would notice) so why do you need to?

perhaps thats a very NZ attitude, but i dont plan to cert my rb30det. With rb20 timing cover it should be fine!

I think most "old school" mechs would smell a rat when they see the 38mm gap in the timing cover, that and the fact the bonnet usually has to be trimmed to make the motor fit. I would guess most of the 25/30's and 26/30's arent engineered. In nsw if you increase power by 20% you are meant to get it engineered.

A $500 engineering certificate for a $22 bleed valve LOL

[Cubes]

Mine doesn't have a 38mm gap between the cover. I've cut and welded on a piece from another cover the filled sanded then painted and it looks all one piece.

[CEF11E]

this is really going to sound stupid, but i am having serious traction issues.

my rb30det has the following

rb25 de hear r33 vct

rb30e bottom end rebuilt to na specs

rb25 sliding hiflow

tuned ecu, injectors 3' blah blah....

built it myself. tuned it myself.

it is not making monstrous power. 264rwkw. and rev limit of 6500 rpm. but the torque figure is huge. even with 235 decent tyres as soon as it hist 4000rpm full throttle in 1st 2nd and even 3rd it will begin to loose tractiion. even with careful application and in a straight line its really not that practical and causes dramas for daily use.

yes the exhaust housing is too small i know. but i do not want to increase lag. at the moment full boost of 17~18 psi is around 2900rpm. perfect.

i have lowered rear tyre pressure and not a lot of difference.

I have a very tight lsd and whiteline springs, swaybar and solid alloy cradle bushes. that are set up to neutral.

ride quality is very good and the car handles quite well and is not overly stiff.

[Cubes]

lol.

Push in a little cradle rake. I've got ~12mm and its helped considerably. It gives you a little more feel and improved throttle control.

Then.. Better or new tyres. Mine are down to 1/4 and are noticeably slipperier compared to when they were fresh.

I've ran a set of cheap Nankang NS2 245/40/18's and they were considerably worse both in the wet and dry than a set of cheap 225/50/16 Federal 535's.

You may have to dial out a little boost around the 3000rpm range. When mine was making up around 19psi at 3000rpm at 3500rpm it was making ~180-190rwkw. Rolling on the throttle in third at 60km/h meant it was not practical.

Boost is now straight off the actuator which is lazy on paper but still pulls super strong, it makes ~11psi at 3000rpm and then by just before 4500rpm its at 1bar. I plan to drop a set of cams in it and hopefully get it some where near 300rwkw on the same boost; maybe tighten up the actuator a little to raise boost and hopefully keep the boost a little lazy to help with throttle control. + it will save me the purchase of an ebc.

If I do buy an EBC i'll be looking at an AVCR or something that I can set boost vs RPM.

Some may say what a waste of the smaller turbo but compared to the gt35 its still so much more fun to drive in the lower gears simply because of its vastly increased response due to smaller wheels = less inertia. Thats my view after driving 2 near identical setups with the gt30 and gt35.

You'll find with the larger a/r the rb30 soaks it up really well. It won't lag much more if any but give you much increased throttle control. Basically the larger a/r require more throttle to make the same boost compared to the smaller a/r making the throttle less touchy so you can regulate the boost better with that right foot for when it does start to break traction a little.

[Al]

lol.

Push in a little cradle rake. I've got ~12mm and its helped considerably. It gives you a little more feel and improved throttle control.

Please explain

Another 3-4 weeks and mine should be finished and on the road. Still waiting on manifold and sump to arrive.

I'm excited

[Cubes]

Angle the front of the cradle down to promote squat weight transfer. i.e pineapples.

[GTRgeoff]

Al, buy the Whiteline pineapples for a bit of squat. On the GTR though they do nothing except make noise so alloy bushes work better.

[BAMR33]

this is really going to sound stupid, but i am having serious traction issues.

my rb30det has the following

rb25 de hear r33 vct

rb30e bottom end rebuilt to na specs

rb25 sliding hiflow

tuned ecu, injectors 3' blah blah....

built it myself. tuned it myself.

it is not making monstrous power. 264rwkw. and rev limit of 6500 rpm. but the torque figure is huge. even with 235 decent tyres as soon as it hist 4000rpm full throttle in 1st 2nd and even 3rd it will begin to loose tractiion. even with careful application and in a straight line its really not that practical and causes dramas for daily use.

yes the exhaust housing is too small i know. but i do not want to increase lag. at the moment full boost of 17~18 psi is around 2900rpm. perfect.

i have lowered rear tyre pressure and not a lot of difference.

I have a very tight lsd and whiteline springs, swaybar and solid alloy cradle bushes. that are set up to neutral.

ride quality is very good and the car handles quite well and is not overly stiff.

Haha that's great to here, I have a max oversize slide hi-flow too. Can't wait to get my rb30 back together.

What tyres/rims are you running? also what manifolds are you using?

[r33_racer]

ally bushes ftw!

[GTR-Ben]

Drove my beast for the first time on Thursday.. been a long time coming.

Did a quick tune run on the dyno so I can run it in and iron out the problems etc. Got a couple of small oil leaks, need to get some better ducting to my radiator and my oil pressure seems pretty low at idle seems fine when I get up in the revs however.

What people say about traction is true.. I have a .82 A/R hot side.. and it's very touchy. Even with my run in tune. 250hp at 10psi not going over 5k rpm.. the rear end feels like i'm driving on ice.. I have 0º camber on the rear, with 265's. Tires are not brand new though.

[Al]

Al, buy the Whiteline pineapples for a bit of squat. On the GTR though they do nothing except make noise so alloy bushes work better.

I've had pineapples for about 4yrs, but set to "all round" performance, which only uses 4 of 6 pineapple rings and keeps the geometry of the cradle std.

So now i should insert the other two pineapple rings for "traction/drag"?

How does this effect the car's overall handling on the track?

Will i get better acceleration out of corners?

Does it affect corning, etc, in any -ve manor?

[Cubes]

Ben!!!

Its been a very long time coming.

What are the specs on the setup again? Its been so long I've forget.

[Al]

Drove my beast for the first time on Thursday.. been a long time coming.

Did a quick tune run on the dyno so I can run it in and iron out the problems etc. Got a couple of small oil leaks, need to get some better ducting to my radiator and my oil pressure seems pretty low at idle seems fine when I get up in the revs however.

What people say about traction is true.. I have a .82 A/R hot side.. and it's very touchy. Even with my run in tune. 250hp at 10psi not going over 5k rpm.. the rear end feels like i'm driving on ice.. I have 0º camber on the rear, with 265's. Tires are not brand new though.

Full specs and a full size pic of your avatar..........................................................................

..PLEASE

Who made the manifold?