R33 Rb30 Conversion

[GTRgeoff]

Hmmmm, could have a job or 2 for you Mike

[shanef]

Also for aftermarket TB's and fuel rails you can try Buzz Engines in Brisbane. They have done some nice work. http://www.buzzengines.com/

I need to get a decent fuel rail for the 26/30 as I'm running Delphi 680cc injectors and the O ring setup is not optimal with the GTR rail.

by not optimal u mean no fooking way it fits?

theres also bmi, im usnig one of their billet throttle bodies

thats also something id like to make on our cnc's when they are up and running properly some billet fuel rails....im in love with these machines and they arent even setup fully and running...however next week they tell me!

do u have access to 6061 t6? my billet girdles will be ready to produce next week...wink wink

[Craved]

repco only sort them by size not car.

called up a mate from nissan parts, said i need about 7 of one size (think its 22mm) and 12 of another im not sure of.

i bought

6 x 22mm

11 x 30mm

buy a couple extra as i believe i had a couple i didnt replace.

[silver gts-t]

i bought

6 x 22mm

11 x 30mm

buy a couple extra as i believe i had a couple i didnt replace.

thanks asswipe, happy?

lol

[GTRgeoff]

Shane, the injectors work fine with 2 standard O rings on each injector, but the big 14mm ones were a no go. I just want to make it more elegant.

[s13_Skyline_inside]

hey just wondering how you guys that have a single turbo on your 26 heads ran the coolant lines for the turbo, im doing a single turbo 26/30 and wanted a bit o info on if other people set up the coolant lines like that of a 25 or 20, ie just running the one from the back to the turbo and the return in the normal place, taking out the part that comes around the front and back intot he coolant inlet for the engine?

oh and before anyone just says search for it, I have and the results were pretty inconclusive

Edited November 21, 2007 by s13_Skyline_inside

[454KEN]

hey guys have been reading this thread with a lot of interest, but have come to a bit of a cross-road

i have an s13 running an rb20det spinning a t04e, so i have nothing really down low, but it pulls very hard on boost (~4,500rpm), so i ideally want more torque and a more gradual power curve. the t04e is good for about 600hp so i would like to keep this turbo. other mods i have are oil cooler, front mount, link g3 ecu, bigger radiator.

i want to set up the car for drifting & racing purposes, and i came to decision between an rb25det or an rb30det. so for traction purposes i guess a rough power goal would be between 300-320rwkw

having read a fair bit of this thread, i would love to build an rb30det and whack it in my silvia, however if it was set up for drifting/racing, would this engine be too heavy for the front of the car? i initially also thought it wouldnt fit into an s13 however ive been told by a few places that one can use a cefiro cross member to sit it down low enough.

i read somewhere in the early pages of the thread that it would cost roughly the same to set up an rb25det as a well as a sort of standard rb30det.

my other issue is that if i started building an rb30det from the ground up, i would just get carried away with it, forgies pistons instead of stock, custom rods instead of stock, rb26dett head instead of rb25e etc and just be pushing for power i wouldnt need as opposed to just buying an rb25det halfcut, bolting my turbo and manifold on with some larger injectors.

after reading most of the thread, im inclined to think that an rb25det would be all i would need, but i thought id get some second opinions on whether a basic rb30det build (stock rods etc) would be more suitable due to the increased torque that it would make.

any help would be great

Edited November 21, 2007 by 454KEN

[SirRacer]

Just interesting in seeing whether anyone has used the cam belt from a 1.7 Mazda Diesel engine which apparently fits and RIPS in NZ is using. The shop that sells his parts sold me one, and im just wanting to know whether it fits like the rest.

What sort of hosing should i run as my oil/water feeds and what fittings am i likely to need also.

Im going to be running a wasted spark setup on my car with evo coils, so ill keep everyone posted with the results

[Al]

454KEN: It would be highly advisable to have at least forged pistons, preped rods, arp bolts, and acl bearings with any form of race/drift engine; if you want it to last at that power level.

[s13_Skyline_inside]

anyone willing to share with me how they did the water for their single turbo with 26 heads please

[rockabilly]

Just interesting in seeing whether anyone has used the cam belt from a 1.7 Mazda Diesel engine which apparently fits and RIPS in NZ is using. The shop that sells his parts sold me one, and im just wanting to know whether it fits like the rest.

What sort of hosing should i run as my oil/water feeds and what fittings am i likely to need also.

Im going to be running a wasted spark setup on my car with evo coils, so ill keep everyone posted with the results

hi sir racer//ref cambelt..yep it fits. i have a gates belt thats a mazda 1.7d on my rb26/30 right now..no probs..

cant help on the other issues sorry,bernie

[SirRacer]

hi sir racer//ref cambelt..yep it fits. i have a gates belt thats a mazda 1.7d on my rb26/30 right now..no probs..

cant help on the other issues sorry,bernie

Hey Bernie,

Cheers for the reply. Is the tensioner tapped in the same place as all teh pictures?

Thanks

[rockabilly]

Hey Bernie,

Cheers for the reply. Is the tensioner tapped in the same place as all teh pictures?

Thanks

hi mate. i moved mine to just under the head. on the smooth part above the water pump. also used two tensioners, sounds sweet no whining noise like you get from the greddy belts sometimes..easy enough to do..

Edited November 29, 2007 by rockabilly

[r33_racer]

s13_skyline_inside: Normally out of the back of the waterpump you can T a line off there to direct it to the waterfeed for the turbo. Either that or drill a hole and weld a fitting on the outlet of the inlet manifold were the water goes to the radiator and direct it from there.

Doesnt std rb26 have one feed that splits into two. one for each turbo, but from the block somewhere?

[s13_Skyline_inside]

yeh with the 26 there is a coolant line that runs around from the back around the exaust side and back to the front of the engine that both the turbo's feed of, I've seen some conversions where they havnt connected back to the front of the engine and was wondering if they did somthing else or just ran the feed from the rear outlet to the turbo and then return back to the block. the reason i thought that standard they connect back to the front of the engine was so that both turbo's got the same amount of coolant, kind of like a balance.

there are some pics of what i mean in this tread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...nt-t169610.html but the thread didnt really get many reply's about whether you can get rid of the front part of the line or not.

Edited November 30, 2007 by s13_Skyline_inside

[s13_Skyline_inside]

pic number 2 is the way i wanted to run mine, so that i dont need to have the extra lines running around the front of the engine

[SirRacer]

hi mate. i moved mine to just under the head. on the smooth part above the water pump. also used two tensioners, sounds sweet no whining noise like you get from the greddy belts sometimes..easy enough to do..

Thanks mate, are there any specific measurements i should be telling my engine builders about where to mount it.

Any reason you also didnt go with tapping it as per everyone else? Your way does look pretty well done, im just a bit worried its going to get mucked up once i drop the engine off.

Cheers

[Cubes]

I wouldn't be too concerned with specific measurements. All you need to know is 2 x tensioners... 1 positioned above the water pump on the inlet side and the other down in the tensioner location on the exhaust side.

Then dummy it up; grab the cam belt, came belt covers and position it so that it clears the cam belts. Failure to do so will result in the belt rubbing on the cam belt cover(s); which is what happened to some one I know.

Dummy it up; you can't go wrong.

I've attached the rb30 guide to this threads first page/post that contains a pic and measurements of the upper tensioner location courtesy of that Cobra dude.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=132205

[deant1]

how do yu know if your rb30e block is short or long? is there an easy way to tell?

[r33_racer]

A short block assembly normally refers to the bottom end only. A long block is block and head assembly.

As far as im aware, physically all the rb30 blocks are the same.