R33 Rb30 Conversion

[bubba]

Interesting, my 25DE head has Tomei poncams for a RB25

It's the stud pattern on the plenum side which is different, it is the same as RB20 - 25 greddy plenums don't bolt up which is why I'm getting a RIPS item. Cams are the same as my mate had poncams in this head before I got it.

[Bliksem]

So I started the car for the first time just before... Unfortunately I cant get an oil pressure reading on the dash... I pulled the oil filter off and it's full of oil. The only thing I can think it could be is that the RB25DET water/oil cooler which houses the sender is not compatable with the RB30 Block... Is this right?

Edit, I took the sender out and a heap of oil drained out from the hole. I guess this means the sender is getting plenty of oil supply. How else can I check to make sure the motor is getting Oil pressure? I've pulled off the oil fill cap and had a bit of a look down there, a few drops flew off the cam but nothing excessive. What should that look like?

Edited December 22, 2007 by MintR33

[SirRacer]

It's the stud pattern on the plenum side which is different, it is the same as RB20 - 25 greddy plenums don't bolt up which is why I'm getting a RIPS item. Cams are the same as my mate had poncams in this head before I got it.

You know there is a wait lasting months dont u? I hope you do!

[shanef]

You know there is a wait lasting months dont u? I hope you do!

i second that. good thing i booked in my work with rob months ago

[Cubes]

So I started the car for the first time just before... Unfortunately I cant get an oil pressure reading on the dash...

Sounds silly but its plugged in correctly?

Were the head oil restrictors replaced after cleaning up the block?

If there's very little oil pressure you will hear the hydraulic lifters tapping. All though if you have had the head reco'd and lifters bled you will be none the wiser as the lifters tick after they have been bled anyway.

Grab a cheap aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge to check for oil pressure. Its not worth the damage that can be done if there is a problem with oil pressure.

[bubba]

You know there is a wait lasting months dont u? I hope you do!

I've lined up a 2nd hand one

And yeah, get a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I use an Autometer one and it's fine, I always thought the stock gauge was fkd as it the needle barely moved off 0 but now with the N1 pump it actually reads pressure! (guess the oil pump on the 20 was getting VERY old and tired..

Edited December 22, 2007 by bubba

[Bliksem]

ok, I've pulled all the plugs out, fuel pump fuse, and sprayed the sender with a heap of crc to try and dislodge and possible crap. I then filled the sump with an extra 5L of oil to help get the oil level higher than the pump and ensure the pump primes properly. Ive cranked it over and pretty confident oil is reaching the head as the cam bearings seem to be well lubricated. And so does the cam area in general. Looks like the sender could be stuffed, but I better get that mechanical gauge just to be sure...

[Bliksem]

Went and got a Speco gauge before, getting over 20psi on cranking which is a huge relief =D looks like a new sender is on the cards!

[Cubes]

Good stuff. Nothing worse then reading of some one elses hard work go pear shaped.

So whens she going to be run in? I was on holidays when I got mine running so it had done close to 1000 within the first week.

[Bliksem]

Looks like after Xmas now :-( my local exhaust shop wont be open until 7th Jan, also waiting on a throttle cable too :-)

Will be spending a while driving her around the hilly area's around here to run it in, won't be able to keep the smile off my face though, the car hasnt moved from my shed in almost 3months

Edited December 23, 2007 by MintR33

[Al]

Can you imagine how big the smile on my face will be, when i drive mine for the first time after 12months or so.

[SirRacer]

My cars been sitting on a farm for the last 2/3 years and things are now only getting somewhere now!

The guy whos tuning my engine (he tunes the rips ones) runs the thing on the dyno. By the time the car is finished (1 day) its producing full power. Interesting take on things i thought

[deant1]

bedding an engine in on the dyno is very common. saves allot of F**king around on the street.

[twogood]

dont like it personally

i prefer to run the motor through its heat cycles and different loads on the street

not just sitting on a constant speed with the same load

Edited December 25, 2007 by twogood

[Sydneykid]

Sure you can run the engine in on the dyno, as long as you run it though the various load cycles, it's no different to running it in on the road. That's what we do on the engine dyno with a new engine, we don't want to put it in the car (to run it in) then take it out (to tune it) then put it back in the car (to race). That's a lot of workshop expense, so it is cheaper to use the engine dyno time. Plus the engine dyno has a "running in" program, you just kick it off and then go and work on something else. There are the usual safeguards that shut the engine down in a controlled fashion if soemthing happens, like high temps or low pressures.

But for a chassis dyno it is much cheaper to run the car in on the road, having the dyno tied up for a whole day running in, with the operator sitting in the car varying the loads, is expensive. Plus you have issues with the gearbox and diff overheating because there simply isn't the same amount of airflow that you get driving along the road. We run 2 dyno fans and it still isn't enough airflow. So you have to stop for an hour or so every 20 to 30 minutes to let things cool down. In summary it works, but it's expensive and not good for the drivetrain.

Happy New Year

Gary

[Alf]

My 25/30 is almost ready to crank over for the first time.

I'm using:

rb25 pfc

33 rb25det head with std cams with vvt

Gt35R 0.86

Q45 maf and tb

std injectors

greddy plenum

9.2 comp (arias forgies)

After some feedback on what changes were made in your setups/ pfc's so it was safe enough to run the engine in for the first time or drive to a tuner.

Edited December 25, 2007 by Alf

[silver gts-t]

question about rod nut torque.

manual says 14-16Nm for rb25, this right?

and if so is it the same for rb30 rods.

also, are rb30 and 25 torque setting the same from the crank girdle bolts.

Thanks

John

[dano4127]

Deposit Payed organising freight and full payment at the moment of the RIPS motor - WOOHOO!

Ok so I'm still trying to work out the best way to get the new motor happening in my car (R32 RB25DET head on 3L -> R33 with R33 PFC)

have been thinking swapping the heads around putting my existing 33 head onto the new bottom end but it seems such a shame to tamper with a freshly built and setup motor also this way i get to keep that snazzy RIPS plenum!

I have been doing as much searching as possible and along the way found this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...;hl=RB25DE+Head

ok so I would need to do this? yes / no

now as I have been informed the R32 25 head utilises top feed low impedance injectors like the gtr that was one of the problems but if I was just to order top feed high impedance injectors (Greenline has 650cc Sards at a great price) I wouldn't need to run any form or resistor as the impedance would match my R33 PFC

Anything else I have missed? That seems to easy?

Pull old motor out bolt new one in

Plug everything in hopfully everything reaches? Little worried about throttle cable?

Fab new intercooler pipes to match forward plenum

New Intake pipe for new turbo

New dump to match new turbo

Tow to tuner

run in new motor

tune

WILLOWBANK!

One of the reasons i am stressing is a mate of mine is at the tale end of a 8month RB26 -> GTST conversion and nothing ever is as it seems, so I want to get it all clear in my mind what goes where and what im in for as to not have the car off the road for too long. (read: hopefully no more than a week!)

Cheers!

Dan

[Bliksem]

Everything will reach, one thing you'll notice with the forward facing plenum's is that there will be no mounting points to support the loom. As for Throttle cable you can buy a R31 cable and shorten it to suit, or an S13 one (I should hav an S13 one soon to trial) It should be very straight forward. Nothing really needs to be modified except for the power stering mount.

[trevor_hodgess]

I have read the RB30 DOHC pdf. I looked up Dayco 94407 Timing Belt to find it is only 25mm in width. Who knows where to pick up a 30mm x 152 teeth for my RB30 DOHC project