Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

there you go...

thats a engine....

i reckon that youtube video i posted of the vl at the track is turning about 9000 9500 rpm... thats music to my ears

Edited by den001

From the sound of it, i doubt that vl is running 272deg cams, or a 600 hp turbo, more like 2x700hp turbos and massive cams. The reason rockabilities sound like it does, is because at the beginning of the power run it is already making heaps of torque, so you just dont hear it ramp up as much. Also the VL is free revving as opposed to a set ramp rate. Cars on dyno dont tend to sound very powerful as the only thing that changes as they rev up is exhaust/intake noise

One word "Harmonics' :yes:

heard this term a lot and have limited my own 26/30 to 7k rpm with an ATI balancer BUT have yet to see or hear firm evidence of someone who has trashed an RB30 and can conclusively trace the cause to harmonics. not saying it an't so but can anyone provide evidence?

well guys mine went on the dyno as promised. here,s a you tube link, takes a while to load, done by the racing line where i had it mapped..

car ran brilliantly all morning till 1pm. did 20+ dyno runs , final run was @ 2.17 bar 652bhp@the fly 660lbs torque @ 5500rpm

went for dinner and unfortunately left the ign on. when we returned for some light on road mapping car is now knacked beyond a joke,,

change the ecu,cam sensor, ign amp, splitfires,plugs no joy.. wont rev and on the fuel map it stays the same but when you rev it up, and return to same piont on the map that had an afr of 13 now it reads 21? numbers are the same but afr has changed on its own?. lambda,s are turned off so not them. we puit some 4 bar map sensors on wonder if they have burned out?. will start again monday..bernie

I have been trying to find the full spec of the engine, this is what I found with a quick search, please ad anything I have left out.

cams are jun. 264/in 272/ex 9.7mm lift

tomei 1mm oversized buckets

2.17 bar 652bhp@the fly 660lbs torque @ 5500rpm

shell v - power 98ron

bottom end i built all forged just the crank that’s std...

datalogit

Since you mentioned Datalogit assume it has a Power FC, must be a D-Jetro as I can’t see any AFM’s.

I would start by checking the diagnostics screen on the Datalogit (Power FC), it shows all of the sensor readings. Just look for one that looks strange, different or inconsistent. If I had to guess the problem I would say map sensors. But there are a number of other possibilities including temp sensors.

As for the power versus boost, the cam lift is a bit low for the power target, which I assume is ~750 bhp as that is the size of the turbo you have chosen. I have not seen any mention of head porting, I may have simply missed that post. But for that sort of power target it is pretty much a necessity. I didn’t see any mention of exhaust manifold or intercooler either. All of these items are restrictions, which simply increase the boost required to make less power. Remove the restrictions and the boost will go down and the power will go up.

As for the torque and horsepower being the same keep in mind the mathematics that;

BHP = Torque (in ft lbs ) at 5,250 rpm

Cheers

Gary

holy crap how much timing did you have to pull to run 2.17bar on 98ron fuel?

den001, its the compressor that determins airflow, so theoretically (in my mind) they should make the same power, allowing for restrictions of the exhaust housing which can be somewhat oversome by a big external gate

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

check out fullboost dvd 2 and you see logs of it revving to 11+......when you get a chance to see the log, maybe you can understand why it didnt last too long

...........restrictions, which simply increase the boost required to make less power. Remove the restrictions and the boost will go down and the power will go up.

finally...

man ive been missing out here. Gone a few weeks and everything happens. Nice power rockabilly, but thats alot of boost!

Old mate in NZ reckons he can rev out his twin cam 30's to 10k and reckons they will last.

ask kyle what his revs to...

As for the power versus boost, the cam lift is a bit low for the power target, which I assume is ~750 bhp as that is the size of the turbo you have chosen. I have not seen any mention of head porting, I may have simply missed that post. But for that sort of power target it is pretty much a necessity. I didn’t see any mention of exhaust manifold or intercooler either. All of these items are restrictions, which simply increase the boost required to make less power. Remove the restrictions and the boost will go down and the power will go up.

cheers guys. gary..

some more details. today we removed the map sensors and fitted more new ones no different. also another set of plugs, no different.

be told by one of the uk tuners who has ahd a look at the graphs power is 691bhp @ the fly on the graph for 2.1 bar.

not sure of ign timing will ask.

also head has been ported polished and matched to the throttle bodies headers etc.

manifold is fromm extreme turbo manifolds, 44 mm tial wastegate, all ceramic coated. .

cp forges spool rods, acl bearings, n1 oil/water pumps. bottom end full balanced.

intercooler is hks drag 4" thick.

on the clip you can see the red light in car. thats my shift light set at 7k

thats it for now guys but please ask anything i will help if possible. bernie

just looking at my options as now having the forward facing plenum I need to redo my cooler pipes I also guess this means I can no longer run a plumb back BOV easily :D

Out of interest I have seen a Tial 50mm BOV for around $300 bucks new unused looks like a wicked bit of gear would this be the go for my final power goal of ~450 HP? I dont want anything with the huge trumpets that make em louder

Lowmount 3540 internal gate turbo with more than likely a ~600x300x100 cooler

If your goal is 450flywheel hp stick with the GT30.

If the goal is greater than 500hp then go with the GT35.

If its 450rwhp then definitely the GT35.

I am currently at ~450hp and don't run a bov. No bov really depends on your tuner; some say its fine some say oh no OMFG. I'm sticking with what my tuner suggests as they have never had a no bov related failure on their race car nor any customer cars over the years. Having been around VLT's in the past they don't run bov's never any issues with them.

hmmm interesting stuff had not even considered the no BOV option

to be honest 450 is my conservative idea as I went in my mates 400hp 33 last week and shite it was fast, the motor is a RIPS one so supposedly good up to 600ish but I think my driving skill (read: balls) need to grow before i attempt that

also from what I have heard the internal gate wont get me much further anyway?

The Int gate is fine providing you run the larger flapper. A GT35R with supporting mods (large cams, little port work, nice exh. manifold) will have you pushing close to 400rwkw.

The problem past 450-500hp at the fly is the std exhaust manifold not the wastegate setup.

good stuff! where how do i do the larger flapper?

I am on the hunt for a HKS cast lowmount manifold but will more than likely get it setup on the stock one to begin with

I have 275/40 Fedral SS595's on there at the moment hopefully they will go alright

would you say that the bigger housing (1.06) will be a little less violent than my mates .82 on the freeway?

Was speaking to Tony Rigoli tonight at WSID and he said they make their own sump adaptors but use 10mm sump bolt holes (same as RB26) not the factory size. He said with the extra weight of the sump/diff the standard RB30 holes aren't adequate.

Thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Middle seat good for a slab of beer or Esky for a road trip. 2x kids, means 1x free seat lol.
    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
×
×
  • Create New...