Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rb30 Conversion

JNR24

By JNR24,
in RB30 conversions

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Duncan
Duncan

Just thought I would bump this 20 year old thread because the Skid Factory have just posted up a video summarising a lot of the content, format might be more familiar for newer members

JNR24
JNR24

fyi guys, Well yesturday i picked up a RB30 for my conversion into my R33. I will be using my RB25DET head on the RB30 block. So i started stripping the motor down, pulled the crank, pistons, girdle

Cubes
Cubes

Here is all I have at the moment: http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ Unless you are on broad band make sure you right click then save as. The file is around 120kb. If there is anything I have got w

Posted Images

Alf Proficient

Alf

Posted
Posted (edited)

As R33-Racer said u would have to have really low comp to make it "free running"

You would need serious bowl pistons or a lower top dead centre.

To give you an idea, a stock RB30ET is in the 7s and is still an interference motor.

To test it: remove your timing belt and crank the motor over by hand if it hits a valve you know the answer. keep trying this with turning the cams a few degrees and cranking it by hand, ull get the idea.

Out of all the interference motors with broken belts that have come in through work only 1% have escaped the carnage. There is a very small chance that when the timing belt snaps that the cam/s will be in the right position so all the valves will be shut/ clear the pistons.

Edited by Alf
Link to comment
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

Alrighty guys,

Just went through the RB30DET faq again.

And I need to know HOW to lower the motor the 12 and 15 mm each side as required when running the stock 25 inlet mani.

Is it a matter of pulling the mounts out, and shaving 15mm off the bottom of each, or what?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

took my car out for its first track day on the weekend and after my first session i found quite a bit of oil in the engine bay from my catch can. i have a stock built rb30 with rb25de head (non vvt) with rb20 oil pump and no restrictors. My catch can had a filter on top and 4 1/4" holes so i thought it was building pressure causing the oil to shoot out so i added 4 more holes and made them all bigger which helped but i was still getting probably close to 200ml of oil in the catch can after every 15 min session. Is there any way of fixing this without chucking the restrictors in the block? also incase it makes a difference the catch can is running off the two outlets on the cam covers.

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

picking up an rb30 this weekend and 25 head. just reading through the pdf file for the conversion it mentions that i need to make sure the block has provision for the oil/water return and that both lower tensioner locations are machined flat. this engine is coming out of an R31 GXE i believe. any know if this engine will have the above? don't wanna buy something i can't use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dmac_25 Grand Master

dmac_25

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just chucking this out there could it be possible using the rb20det head getting it ported and putting bigger valves in it just reading the pdf and could it be possible putting in the 25 valves and make it work?

Because i have a rb20det head out of a wreck and a rb30e out of another one.

Just chucking it out there to see if it possible?

Regards

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
plazmaman plenum still hits the bonnet.

That sucks, GReddy FTW!

The factory plenum shouldn't hit the std 33 bonnet only hits the strut brace. Since i use my car for track/motorkahna days i wanted to keep the strut brace and went for a GReddy plenum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

What are people paying to get their bottom ends built up?

I was quoted for the following,

$220 to balance rods and crank, extra $55 for flexplate

$375 to change from 11mm head studs to 1/2"

$75.90 to crack test the crank and check grind

$82.50 to linish the crank if needed

$400 for tunnel bore and check main bearings

$190 for a rebore

Anything else?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MBS206 Grand Master

MBS206

Posted
Posted

So, are people actually going to answer the question, not give bullshit responses?

How exactly can you fit the RB25/30 into the R33 GTS-t WITH a strut brace fitted, and NO, I'm not putting on a new plenum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I had the Blitz bonnet on my old boat and never had a issue with overheating anywhere Same car, but, after I sold it, weirdly I cannot find any pictures of it when I had it, maybe I deleted them all because they "triggered' me...LOL
    • Kinkstaah
      Best add on carbon side skirts

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I want someone to make side skirt extensions. But by 'extensions' I mean running from one side of the car to the other, forming a flat undertray, maybe one that runs to the front and rear of the car too 
    • GTSBoy
      Best add on carbon side skirts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Meh, maybe the JSAI ones are FG not CF. But, given that I'm not convinced any of these look any good, it hardly matters.
    • nouveau_poor
      Skyline Washer Nozzle Compatibility

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Got them in the other day. I can confirm the r33/r34 nozzles (B8K30-AA000) are the exact same. Hope this helps anyone else that comes looking for it 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah, I should state I have no overheating issues except when it's sitting idle, with AC on (and only then) and only on VERY VERY hot days. And it stops if I turn the AC off. But I put a lot of effort into making this thing run like a regular car, I want the AC to work when I want it to work. I need no excuses as to why I should make some other thing a daily! And tbf, the thing does heat soak pretty bad, not much I can do with the exhaust running under the driver's seat, you can feel it through your shoes/pants when you step out of the car, too. Point being, aircon inside the cabin is on pretty frequently. I did think about removing heater hoses to simplify the engine bay/back of engine because I cannot imagine a scenario where I ever need a heater. Except for defogging, but doesn't AC do that, not the heater? So in this very limited situation, raising the rear could work, purely to let hot air out. I've ran the car at the track on a 35C day with the aircon on, and it doesn't overheat in that scenario so that's why I thought it was due to heat soak/heat buildup and not just general overheating under load. I had previously tried shrouding the radiator, changing my balancer to a non-underdriven one to spin the water pump more at idle too, and installing two more thermo fans on the other side of the radiator/AC condenser. (So I have 4 now, 2 pushing, 2 pulling from the rad) neither really helped in this very limited scenario. I don't know if the vents will, but visually seeing the heat steaming out of them did give me hope, not to mention the temperature of the vents was MUCH hotter than other areas of the bonnet. Enough that one of the paint guys was unsure as to whether paint would stick to it long term. I'm sure that will be fine also.
×
×
  • Create New...