Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, are people actually going to answer the question, not give bullshit responses?

How exactly can you fit the RB25/30 into the R33 GTS-t WITH a strut brace fitted, and NO, I'm not putting on a new plenum.

Well if u actually were half smart, or even quarter smart, or had any brain at all, ud realise by now that all the info u need is in this thread, or in the pdf.

but because im not a c**t, ur only other option is to lower the engine by modifying the mounts

What Shane said. You will have to fab up lower mounts.

My setup still just touches at the front. So I'll be using the soft mallet to create clearance when some new engine covers go in. The primary reason I went 26/30 was to have the lower plenum as well as 6 throttle for the racetrack.

Also my machining including a head skim cost $1400 including full balance, fitting slugs, crank deplug and clean and full check then tapped and grub screwed. I used forged rods so no prep of those. It came cleaned ready to give a final wipe and assemble.

Hey man i went same setup as you, rb30/26, but my block cost me like $2300 had 2 re-line bore and all what u metioned, using Mahle forgies, spool rods, 7ltr sump, tomei oil pump h/v.

Any pointers about this setup, just finished block work...

its cost me 482 dollars to get my block preped still ahvent got it balanced as yet the preping of the block includes, acid diped/cleaned, crank machined, re-bored and honed and the edition of some new welsh plugs sending my stuff away now to get balanced and sending my head away for a rebuild cant wait till i can finally start it up :D

I think all this talk about a 1/2 in conversion is a bit of a concern. Firstly is is to M12, not 1/2 in. Secondly, you have to have a switched on engineer do the job on a mill, as its easy to stuff up. A lot of builders dont worry, as the ARP RB25 head studs are able to withstand a lot of cylinder pressure. I upgraded mine to rb26 arp head studs(M12 x 1.75), and am now regretting it. In hindsight, i think its really only necessary once you are looking at getting close to 1000hp

I think all this talk about a 1/2 in conversion is a bit of a concern. Firstly is is to M12, not 1/2 in. Secondly, you have to have a switched on engineer do the job on a mill, as its easy to stuff up. A lot of builders dont worry, as the ARP RB25 head studs are able to withstand a lot of cylinder pressure. I upgraded mine to rb26 arp head studs(M12 x 1.75), and am now regretting it. In hindsight, i think its really only necessary once you are looking at getting close to 1000hp

1/2 is just a general term, not sure you can buy imperial studs anymore anyway.

i work with a mill almost every day. i don't see why it's a big job? infact id go as far to say it's an easy job. although i am interested to why you regret doing it?

Well if u actually were half smart, or even quarter smart, or had any brain at all, ud realise by now that all the info u need is in this thread, or in the pdf.

but because im not a c**t, ur only other option is to lower the engine by modifying the mounts

If you go through, and search for it, you'll find that it doesn't actually state HOW to lower it.

Everyone claims to "lower" the motor 15mm on the drivers side, 12mm on the passenger.

But, they don't say how or WHERE these measurements are from.

Is that nock 15mm off the bottom of the mount?

Is it make the engine physically sit 15mm lower (Which removing 15mm square off the bottom of the mount won't do)

How exactly is it meant to be done?

At the moment, after measuring a few things, I'm just going to remove the strut brace.

1/2 is just a general term, not sure you can buy imperial studs anymore anyway.

i work with a mill almost every day. i don't see why it's a big job? infact id go as far to say it's an easy job. although i am interested to why you regret doing it?

There are certainly more imperial stuff made than metric, I had a machine shop do mine with a mill, and the results are bloody ordinary. Unfortunately the size ifference between the two threads isnt a great deal, which can easily result in the thread not cutting cleanly. I just think for the ordinary person, the added expense, and the risk of damaged threads make it unnecessary when rb25 ARP studs do the job fine.

There would also be things like water temp sensors etc which would need to be swapped for the RB20 items.

I'm using the standard intake manifold for now, am building a custom out of a GTR plenum. If you are using a 25DET head then you have the option of Greddy/copy plenums, I don't have that luxury :D

Bonnet currently rubs slightly on the very forward corner of the standard intake plenum and barely on the timing belt cover. No modified engine mounts or anything like that.

There would also be things like water temp sensors etc which would need to be swapped for the RB20 items.

do these types of things interchange?

I am going to try and run R32 RB25DE head with my R33 Power FC im guessing I need to change these sensors too? the coil packs will be fine wont they?

so far I have worked out i will also need to change some ecu pins around as the R32 had a different firing order

Edited by dano4127

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...