R33 Rb30 Conversion

[[200]]

Would anyone have a spare RB30 piston and connecting rod that they no longer need?

Need one asap..

Actually make that a CP Piston...

The 'custom' set I ordered dont seem to fit my rods. The small end of the rods dont line up with the wrist pin slot of the pistons! damnit...

If anyone has a set somewhere in Sydney and wouldnt mind me coming over to check them out please let me know.

[shanef]

Actually make that a CP Piston...

The 'custom' set I ordered dont seem to fit my rods. The small end of the rods dont line up with the wrist pin slot of the pistons! damnit...

If anyone has a set somewhere in Sydney and wouldnt mind me coming over to check them out please let me know.

i have a set of 9:1 comp CP's beside me if all else fails

[[200]]

Where u at?

edit.. Qld.. I will let you know..

Edited February 5, 2008 by [200]

[**RB2530**]

Chris,

Thankx...I will check out the attachments....yeah I take your point about drilling and tapping when the head is off the motor...ideally this would have been done but the guy who built the motor for me 'assured me' that it did not need to be done to get the VCT to work...I now know otherwise...As far as shavings are concerned a couple of tricks that I know are as follows:

1. Clean out the gallery with a good degreaser and dry it out so that there is no oil in the gallery....

2.Drill a very small pilot hole first. I mean small such as 1mm dia. Cover the drill bit in heavy grease so that any shavings are caught in the grease...then place compressed air on the gallery and give it a positive pressure...not much...you dont want to blow out any seals....just enough to produce decent airflow out of the hole....Then when you drill main hole use a very sharp drill bit on slow speed so the shavings are large. Any shavings get blown outwards by the compressed air through the flute of the drill bit....same goes for when you tap the thread....keep the air pressure up so the air flow blows swarf outwards...

3 Once the drilling tapping has been done connect some small diameter hose (PVC tubing) to a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the hole and suck out any small shavings that may have gotten past the air rushing out of the hole when drilling....This oil gallery must be vertical as it picks up from the block below so any shavings would just fall down and just sit on top of the welded or plugged section at the bottom of the gallery anyway...

In my mind the if the above process is used, the overall risk of damaging the head is lower when compared to risk of damage (and cost) of removing replacing cyl head.

Anyone else reading this post please feel free to add comments or shoot me down in flames...Am always open to criticism...There also may be a good reason not do it based on something I have missed...

cheers

Paul

[shanef]

Chris,

Thankx...I will check out the attachments....yeah I take your point about drilling and tapping when the head is off the motor...ideally this would have been done but the guy who built the motor for me 'assured me' that it did not need to be done to get the VCT to work...I now know otherwise...As far as shavings are concerned a couple of tricks that I know are as follows:

1. Clean out the gallery with a good degreaser and dry it out so that there is no oil in the gallery....

2.Drill a very small pilot hole first. I mean small such as 1mm dia. Cover the drill bit in heavy grease so that any shavings are caught in the grease...then place compressed air on the gallery and give it a positive pressure...not much...you dont want to blow out any seals....just enough to produce decent airflow out of the hole....Then when you drill main hole use a very sharp drill bit on slow speed so the shavings are large. Any shavings get blown outwards by the compressed air through the flute of the drill bit....same goes for when you tap the thread....keep the air pressure up so the air flow blows swarf outwards...

3 Once the drilling tapping has been done connect some small diameter hose (PVC tubing) to a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the hole and suck out any small shavings that may have gotten past the air rushing out of the hole when drilling....This oil gallery must be vertical as it picks up from the block below so any shavings would just fall down and just sit on top of the welded or plugged section at the bottom of the gallery anyway...

In my mind the if the above process is used, the overall risk of damaging the head is lower when compared to risk of damage (and cost) of removing replacing cyl head.

Anyone else reading this post please feel free to add comments or shoot me down in flames...Am always open to criticism...There also may be a good reason not do it based on something I have missed...

cheers

Paul

is the motor forged?

if the answers' yes than youd be very silly to do it the way u described above

[Craved]

Chris,

Thankx...I will check out the attachments....yeah I take your point about drilling and tapping when the head is off the motor...ideally this would have been done but the guy who built the motor for me 'assured me' that it did not need to be done to get the VCT to work...I now know otherwise...As far as shavings are concerned a couple of tricks that I know are as follows:

1. Clean out the gallery with a good degreaser and dry it out so that there is no oil in the gallery....

2.Drill a very small pilot hole first. I mean small such as 1mm dia. Cover the drill bit in heavy grease so that any shavings are caught in the grease...then place compressed air on the gallery and give it a positive pressure...not much...you dont want to blow out any seals....just enough to produce decent airflow out of the hole....Then when you drill main hole use a very sharp drill bit on slow speed so the shavings are large. Any shavings get blown outwards by the compressed air through the flute of the drill bit....same goes for when you tap the thread....keep the air pressure up so the air flow blows swarf outwards...

3 Once the drilling tapping has been done connect some small diameter hose (PVC tubing) to a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the hole and suck out any small shavings that may have gotten past the air rushing out of the hole when drilling....This oil gallery must be vertical as it picks up from the block below so any shavings would just fall down and just sit on top of the welded or plugged section at the bottom of the gallery anyway...

In my mind the if the above process is used, the overall risk of damaging the head is lower when compared to risk of damage (and cost) of removing replacing cyl head.

Anyone else reading this post please feel free to add comments or shoot me down in flames...Am always open to criticism...There also may be a good reason not do it based on something I have missed...

cheers

Paul

Sounds pretty thorough Paul - hope you found the pics too - im sure i have attached them before in here

[**RB2530**]

Yep found the pics...heaps of em very helpful...looks like the neatest way is to go in from towards the front...have to remove the cam gear backing plate to get in there though by the looks of it...

[**RB2530**]

Yep motor has forged internals...I assume thats what you mean??

I assume the silly comment refers to doing it with the head on due to risk of getting swarf in gallery...or is there another reason other than this that I haven't considered?

[shanef]

Yep motor has forged internals...I assume thats what you mean??

I assume the silly comment refers to doing it with the head on due to risk of getting swarf in gallery...or is there another reason other than this that I haven't considered?

yeh thats what i meant lol

do you really wanna risk a 5k+ bottom end for the sake of ~500 bucks for taking the head off? all u need is intake+exhaust+head gaskets + maybe a slight head skim and bobs your uncle

[**RB2530**]

Shane,

Yep i can see where you are coming from...I am not sure how much risk you expose the bottom end to though when you consider that if any shrapnel does get into the oil gallery undetected, it first goes through the inlet cam gear and bearing, through the exhaust cam bearing and then into the head. The into the head oil drain then into the sump...if it makes it to the sump there is a very good chance it will end up in the oil filter...It doesn't get a chance to find the big end oil circuits...worst case is a damaged cam bearing or two...still not desirable but I am planning on cam upgrade anyway...

Don't get me wrong at the moment I am in two minds as to whether or not to try it...I just always try and do a realistics risk analysis before I do anything like this rather than just relying on whims...

cheers

[Guilt-Toy]

phone anthony at Turbotechnics, ask him if he will do it for you. He has done these before. 49565466

[**RB2530**]

Guilt-toy,

Thanks for that. Do you know if he has done them with the head on before??...I appreciate its not the best thing to do but I dont really want to take the head off unless I have to...It will cost me atleast $1000...and time I dont have....

cheers

[Guilt-Toy]

He should be able to do it, i cant promise anything though. Maybe he will do it but cannot gaurentee that no shaving will get in.

You will need to talk to him. He is on the dyno most of the day today so try him in the afternoon.

[Guilt-Toy]

one thing you have to remember is that to do this job, in the car, he will need to take appart the whole front of the engine.

Thats not a quick job, the hamonic balancer will need to come off as well, radiator out the whole top back plate will need to be removed as well.

He did mine, its in the front but did it with the head off.

He would be the best guy in newcastle to get it done, if he says he wont do it then its probly not a good idea to get it done.

Tell him i sent you and he will look after you.

[**RB2530**]

Guilt-toy

Are you positive the entire front of the engine needs to come apart.

I was thinking that maybe just cam gears then the backing plate need to come off. Obviously you need to slacken the timing belt to renmove the cam gears but I can remove the bottom half of the timing belt cover without removing harmonic balancer. From memory there are two bolts that are a bitch to reach but i think i made some special spanners to get at them...I have had it off onec before without taking H balancer off...

cheers...

btw tried Anthony but he was out...will try again this afternoon...

[Sydneykid]

We drill and tap into blocks and heads all the time, follow the procedure and you won't have a problem. Don't rush it, take your time and have the vacuum cleaner ready to go.

Cheers

Gary

[**RB2530**]

Yeah i have decided to go in from the front of the engine...Now to do this I need to remove the backing plate behind the cam pulleys...

By the look of it I just need to

1. Remove CAS and the front pulley cover upper, 2. slacken timing belt, 3. remove the cam pulleys and then the backing plate...4. Also remove the cooling fan to give a bit more access...Timing belt can be held out of the way but does not need to come off??

The Harmonic balancer doens't need to be taken off to do this??? Can anybody confirm???

I have access to a 90deg power drill designed for tight access and am hoping to drill the hole without removing the radiator...

any help appreciated....

[RB120WHY]

Well my RB30 block had a crack between head stud and bore in number 5 after acid dipping. Got a free RB30 from a R31 skyline, i just had to pull it out.

I have all my parts, just needs to be machined and put together. I'm glad i went for the spool rods option instead of crossing fingers with the stock ones. Just piece of mind for me.

Not long to go

[[200]]

Definate peice of mind for buying a set of forged rods.

I noticed why my carrillo's dont fit my pistons. The little end thicknes is 1"

I got a spec sheet from Argo and their's are .857"

So I am going to sell my pistons and get another set custom made to suit the rods.

[dmac_25]

Bitch of a job, not all blocks will accept the threads and you can't tell until you start machining. S1, S2, Commodore, Skyline and turbo blocks, makes no difference, about 1 in 10 will take squirters. So we stopped fitting them about 60 RB30's ago, we machine oil squirters into the conrods, works perfectly. For heavy duty applications (over 750 bhp) we ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary,

I would also like to know how you machine the squirters into the rods? does it work as good as the rb20/25/26 squiters?

Cheers David