R33 Rb30 Conversion

[r_speedfreak_r]

hey guys whats the fix for the pwr steering belt alignment. It's an r33 gts-t using an rb25 head & rb20 pwr steering pump. the bracket all fits fine now but the belt is mis aligned with my ross balancer. the belt hasnt fallen off yet but you can see its badly mis aligned and im worried once the engine is worn in and i get up it for when i take it to the track its just gonna pull straight off. Theres not much gap between the pulley and the pump so i cant push it on anymore, i cant slot out the bracket bolt holes and slide the whole bracket back because of the bracket design and i cant machine the bracket and space out the gap between the front of the bracket and the pump. Surely someone has come across this and worked something out

[Sydneykid]

hey guys whats the fix for the pwr steering belt alignment. It's an r33 gts-t using an rb25 head & rb20 pwr steering pump. the bracket all fits fine now but the belt is mis aligned with my ross balancer. the belt hasnt fallen off yet but you can see its badly mis aligned and im worried once the engine is worn in and i get up it for when i take it to the track its just gonna pull straight off. Theres not much gap between the pulley and the pump so i cant push it on anymore, i cant slot out the bracket bolt holes and slide the whole bracket back because of the bracket design and i cant machine the bracket and space out the gap between the front of the bracket and the pump. Surely someone has come across this and worked something out

This bit interests me, "r33 gts-t using an rb25 head & rb20 pwr steering pump". Why are you using an RB20 power steering pump? They are older and heavier and have no discernable advantage over the standard R33GTST power steering pump. Which is a straight bolt up.

Cheers

Gary

[bubba]

Had no dramas with my RB20 pump/bracket..

Maybe there's a difference between the 25DET bracket and the 20DET bracket??

[Bliksem]

Ditch the R32 Power steering set-up all together and get an RB25 unit. They should be cheap on these forums in the private sellers section, ask people who are stripping cars.

[Al]

hey guys whats the fix for the pwr steering belt alignment. It's an r33 gts-t using an rb25 head & rb20 pwr steering pump. the bracket all fits fine now but the belt is mis aligned with my ross balancer. the belt hasnt fallen off yet but you can see its badly mis aligned and im worried once the engine is worn in and i get up it for when i take it to the track its just gonna pull straight off. Theres not much gap between the pulley and the pump so i cant push it on anymore, i cant slot out the bracket bolt holes and slide the whole bracket back because of the bracket design and i cant machine the bracket and space out the gap between the front of the bracket and the pump. Surely someone has come across this and worked something out

Is your ROSS balancer a rb26 unit?

I found with my ATI RB26 balancer i had to reset the rb25 p/steering pulley about 4-5mm forward, to align it with the balancer, and welded it to the shaft for extra support (normally the pulley is just an interference fit).

As the rb26 also uses thicker belts the balancer barely missed the rb25 engine fan by about 1mm, so my mechanic machined up a 10mm spacer (similar to a wheel hub, with locating rings) to move the fan forward, closer to the radiator.

[R32Abuser]

Well i've begun the plunge...Consequent to buying my RB30, i stripped it down the other day leaving only the sump and oil pump remaining. In doing so looking at the condition of the bores, pistons and the overall block. Im chasing a RB25DE head as the engine is going in a 32. Here are a few pictures i took of the block and the bores/pistons. Can anyone offer any observations/problems etc etc with anything they can see>?

Will acid washing and painting the block etc remove all this surface rust and gunk shit on the block?

Will the above also clean the pistons up a bit aswell? What does everyone recommend getting done in prepping the block?

So my plan is to do the following regarding block work:

new ACL piston rings

new ACL Bigend bearings

new ACL main bearings

New welsch plugs

JUN Crank collar

Bottom End gasket kit

Labor wise

deck the block (looking for approx 8.5 CR, but to achieve this i rekn ill get the head decked a little aswell)

hone the bores (looking at the cond of the bores do people recommend this just to clean them up? or how far should i go i.e. should i bore it out 20 thou (0.5mm)? any issues with this>?)

Acid wash (as above questions)

balance all the moving parts (pistons, crank etc)

linishing the crank

fitting the crank collar

Anythign anyone else can add to this? Im probs going to use the same/similar setup as Cubes GT3076R so aiming for roughly 260-270 @ 1bar with that turbo sort of region.

Obviously upgrading hte valve springs is advisable aswell.

What price would people recommend for the labor side of it....i priced the parts at a shade under $500 and the labor approximately at around 700 odd but am i under estimating things a little?

Thanks in advance

David

BTW apologies for photos, SAU wouldnt let me add attachments so idunno whats going on there.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0768.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0767.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0766.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0765.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0764.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n10/R32...er/DSC_0763.jpg

So NO BODY has ANYTHING to say at all?

[Alf]

So NO BODY has ANYTHING to say at all?

This might help you.

This is what I paid for labour (staff price)

Acid dip (free)

Bore and hone $170 (suit 20tho forgies)

Grind and linish journals $165

Drill and tap block for head studs (rb26) $300

Machine con rod bearings $55 (using 327 SB std ACL bearings as race series isn't listed for the 327, the bearings needed to be chamfered down to fit.)

Surface head $45

Balance $140 (new rods,forgies, crank, twin plate clutch and flywheel, rb30 HB)

Machine crank for adaptor $120

Freight $38 (sent away for balancing)

Enviro levy $40.

Total: $1033

I'm using 327 SB SCAT H beam rods mod'd to fit and wanted a few extra things like Rb26 head studs that added to the cost of labour.

I'm using ACL race series mains $60 and std ACL 327 con rod bearings $51.

I'm using a GT3582R and aiming for 350-370rwkw

Edited February 15, 2008 by Alf

[R32Abuser]

Cheers Alf, yeh im looking to keep the costs down a bit by not going forgies but keeping the power down to around 250-270RWKW region. That alone will be an unbelievable change from a 170RWKW RB20. So the big end bearings had to be chamfered to fit hey? But i guess if i keep the standard rods, i shouldnt have a problem.

Guess it all helps with the cost being mates rates...!!!

Iv prived it roughly at around 12-1300 mark for labor and parts, but as we all know, what can go wrong, does go wrong and modifying anything isnt a simple task, so ill budget for 1500 i think for any allowances.

Have i got anything to be worried about with that surface rust and gunk? Do the bores look alrite from the pic?

[Cubes]

Why not head down the local wreckers and pick up a short motor for ~$50-$150.

I grabbed mine out of a running VL wagon; just happened at the time there was a bloke asking for a rb30e head and i wanted the bottom end so $100 odd later I had a running in good nick rb30e bottom end.

Or you can pick up a complete rb30e with warranty for 300-400 max.

[Alf]

Cheers Alf, yeh im looking to keep the costs down a bit by not going forgies but keeping the power down to around 250-270RWKW region. That alone will be an unbelievable change from a 170RWKW RB20. So the big end bearings had to be chamfered to fit hey? But i guess if i keep the standard rods, i shouldnt have a problem.

Guess it all helps with the cost being mates rates...!!!

Iv prived it roughly at around 12-1300 mark for labor and parts, but as we all know, what can go wrong, does go wrong and modifying anything isnt a simple task, so ill budget for 1500 i think for any allowances.

Have i got anything to be worried about with that surface rust and gunk? Do the bores look alrite from the pic?

The con rod bearings need to be chamfered coz they were too wide being for a small block chev, if your using everything std RB30 you wont need to worry about it. Its hard to say from the pictures of the bores, you'd need to clean up the surface rust and run your finger across that area to see if their are any ridges at the top of the bore if so then it may need boring.

Cubes has the right idea. Personally if i was guna use a std bottom end I would do the bearings and rings, you could use your current short motor as an exchange for a rebuilt one. Getting your desired CR would be a matter of skimming the head and using the appropriate thickness head gasket. That would be the cheapest way to go.

[R32Abuser]

Yeh ill give it a check and see how she goes. Id prob rather replace all the parts with stuff i know is going in rather than buying a motor which has been built for a price. Especially if im not going to use forged pistons or upgraded rods. Dont mind spending the little bit extra to get the reassurance.

App my RB30 was running perfectly before hand, 200 XXX kms, no smoke, just needed a good oil change. The oil was quit edirty when we drained it. But to me the bores look fine, no obvious deep scuffs or even light scuffs etc.

Ill keep people posted just for shits and giggles...

[webbey]

Hey guys,\

sorry if this is a double post but i can not seem to find this exact info anywhere, The PDF file Cubes made says that RB30E Pistons give u 8.2- 8.3 Comp ratio using RB25 head but the ideal Comp is 8.5 - 9.1 can anyone point me in the right direction as to which pistons i can buy that will achieve this or the dimensions i need to get custom made or ant other multiple things that can bring the comp up preferably i will just change pistons if i can cheers,

nick

[Cubes]

8.5-9:1 is my opinion.

8.2 is fine if you wish to run lots of boost on pump fuel.

Say your going for 400rwkw with a gt35r.

[Alf]

can anyone point me in the right direction as to which pistons i can buy that will achieve this or the dimensions i need to get custom made or ant other multiple things that can bring the comp up

Do one or more of the following.

CC the bowls, deck the block, skim the head, use the right thickness head gasket.

Using forged pistons?

Edited February 17, 2008 by Alf

[Spoolup]

CP make 8.2 and 9.0:1 pistons to suit RB30/25 - both can make less or more with a few mods.

Cheers

[webbey]

8.5-9:1 is my opinion.

8.2 is fine if you wish to run lots of boost on pump fuel.

Say your going for 400rwkw with a gt35r.

Yes i will be happy with 300 - 400 rwhp i will be building a fully forged RB30 with RB25 or RB26head will know for sure this Wednesday which one it will be and going for gt35 or 40 not sure yet will keep u posted. Would like 8.5 comp ratio.

Do one or more of the following.

CC the bowls, deck the block, skim the head, use the right thickness head gasket.

Using forged pistons?

Yup will be using forgies.

[dano4127]

Yes i will be happy with 300 - 400 rwhp i will be building a fully forged RB30 with RB25 or RB26head will know for sure this Wednesday which one it will be and going for gt35 or 40 not sure yet will keep u posted. Would like 8.5 comp ratio.

Yup will be using forgies.

300-400hp and your going forgies possibly 26 head and a GT35 or even GT40?

IMHO your spending a hell of a lot of money for no real benifit, a basic RB30DET will net you those power figures safely with a decent tune and GT3076

If your going GT35 your looking at starting at 400hp and even then its not really working too hard GT40 would be a complete waste of time

[Maddo]

go see the guys at tweakit u will be paying good money but they can give u a rebuilt kit to suit the RB30/RB25 conversion with cp forged pistons with a comp ratio of around 8.5.1 i think from memory thats if you want to spend the coin

[dmac_25]

No, sorry it's not my information to hand out. Take a look at some current generation high performance engines (Honda K20 etc) and you will get the idea.

If you are doing track work, then it helps with keeping the heat in the combustion chamber and not through the piston crown and hence the oil. Oil retentiion coating on the piston skirts is also worthwhile as it slows down the wear when you are running race type clearances. For a road only engine neither are necessary.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks Gary for the info im looking at putting the 30 into my gtr track car so the cermaic coating looks like a thing on the to do list.

I will take a look at the k20 etc to see what you mean.

Cheers David

[webbey]

300-400hp and your going forgies possibly 26 head and a GT35 or even GT40?

IMHO your spending a hell of a lot of money for no real benifit, a basic RB30DET will net you those power figures safely with a decent tune and GT3076

If your going GT35 your looking at starting at 400hp and even then its not really working too hard GT40 would be a complete waste of time

Umm sorry to have mislead you but i am happy with 300 - 400 and anything over that will be a bonus for me i know it seems like i will be spending heaps but i want a hybrid RB30/25 bro something a tad different in the car its going into thats all i do see where your coming from.