Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would also like to thank two people on these forums. At the start of the build, both took the time to answer all my PM's and help me decide on the right combination that would best achieve my goals.

Both were 100% on the money!!

THANKS CUBES AND R33_RACER !! All your help and advise were greatly appreciated :)

Al you gotta find some better workshops

they are absolutely shocking turn around times

Some things are out of your control.

For example: The sump

- Ordered a race baffled 7ltr sump through H.E.

- After 5 weeks sump hadn't been started. Around the same time i ordered my manifold with ETM. After speaking with Leigh i cancelled my H.E. order and ordered my sump with ETM.

- 6 weeks later sump arrives (was promised a 2 week turn around). Sump filled with metal filling (from grinding), rusty mesh was spayed with a $2 spay can which would have contaminated the oil, sworf(sp?) in various places, etc. As the mesh was welded in it would have been impossible to clean the sump properly.

- 1 week to determine whether Leigh was willing to do the job properly and split the sump to clean it out. He wasn't interested and refunded the money upon the return of the sump.

- Another 5 week wait after reordering the sump through H.E.

NOTE: ETM ext manifolds are awesome and a work of art. I am 100% happy with his manifold.

Now onto more depressing news :)

After less than 25km of driving the car i noticed a small puddle of engine oil. Was upset but thought "shit happens, something didn't seal properly or wasn't fastened properly". Wasn't leaking much, but opted not to drive it much till my mechanic checked it out, as it was coming from the turbo side.

After the long weekend (Melbourne-Labor day) i went past my mechanic's w/shop to check it out. After an hour under the car things went from bad to worst; not worse but WORST!

Even though the machinist was paid to crack test, x-ray and sonic test the block, he somehow missed a crack/pin-hole on the side of the block; or he just pocketed the money and didn't test it at all, as i find it hard to believe that any experienced person could miss an existing hole in a block :(

Any way even though i am obviously pissed, there is nothing much i can do. A new block has to be tested and machined (by a different w/shop) and all components transfered over. The bill WILL be paid by the machinist, as it was his fault that the crack wasn't picked up.

Due to taking the car home, to a detailer, mechanic, Melbourne F1GP, etc. The engine would have traveled about 200km.

I would like to know whether certain parts are not transferable. ie: bearings, rod bolts, piston rings, etc.

I have been assured that due to the low km's traveled that all parts will be safe to transfer, but i want an independent opinion. Not to be rude, but I really only want to hear from people in the trade, that really know if transferring all items to the new block will be ok and if any items need to be replaced or machined, etc.

Your help is greatly appreciated!

i know how you feel mate

i got burnt by my machine shop recently as well

charged me over 3k and there was still shit everywhere in the block and head

the previous place i used returned everything like brand new, i really dunno why i changed shops :(

Al, Im glad to hear that everything turned out the way you wanted. Except the block, that really kills the joy of doing it all. It really sucks when something like that is missed, your lucky that it hasnt caused any major dramas that could have made the whole situation worse.

Hopefully after everything is transferred to the new block things will work out good and well, and for a long time too :laugh: Then you can fully enjoy the effort and time that has gone into the whole project.

Al - for the small price I would definetly replace the rings - just for piece of mind.

Make sure the new block is machined to suit the pistons you have and have the crank mains and big ends are mount and measured - to make sure the bearing clearences are all the same.

Edited by Spoolup
Al - for the small price I would definetly replace the rings - just for piece of mind.

Make sure the new block is machined to suit the pistons you have and have the crank mains and big ends are mount and measured - to make sure the bearing clearences are all the same.

Thanks, that is what i was thinking of. Any idea how much a set of rings are for a cp piston?

ie: How much would you sell them for, to a guy that has just had all the joy riped out of his build? :laugh:

Dude, if you put it like that :-) They are about $180

But seriously - get that crank checked in the new block just to be safe along with the rods. If all is ok then the bearings should be sweet.

Thanks, that is what i was thinking of. Any idea how much a set of rings are for a cp piston?

ie: How much would you sell them for, to a guy that has just had all the joy riped out of his build? :laugh:

Dude, if you put it like that :-) They are about $180

But seriously - get that crank checked in the new block just to be safe along with the rods. If all is ok then the bearings should be sweet.

Wont i just transfer the crank from this block into the new block?

yes - but you really need to check that the clearences are all good - your crank didnt come from the new block you are going to use, so just have the bearings all assembled in your new block and the girdle torqued down to spec ( no crank ) - then measure the main tunnel sizes with bearings fitted , then measure your crank mains journals and subtract the difference - this will give you the clearence on your crank to bearing. Then do the same with your rods with bearings fitted and then measure yourbig ends etc.

Make sense ?

Al, seriously mate, talk to Rob at Creatd to get the number for his machinist. I had nothing but joy. Price was great too.

And massive commiserations mate.

Have no intension on spending more money, so unless he is willing to do it for free, i have no need to speak to him :laugh:

Spoke to two engine machinists and also an avionics engineer, that builds and repairs aircraft engines, all have stated that a pinhole in the block is almost impossible to see/find. A crack is different as it is bigger, etc., but a pin-hole would not show up on the x-rays or sonic tests.

Either way, i bought the block through my mechanic, so it is still being replaced, at no expense to me. But i will seriously consider buying the piston rings and passing the other info onto my mechanic, even though i am confident in his abilities.

hows it going guys, my projects comming to a finish soon so i thought id trot around the threads again.

i came across this and was very curious as to wat everyone else thought.

My new setup in My R32 GTS4, Made 382rwkw at only 17.5psi, had some boost issues wen trying to go over 17psi.

Stock RB30 bottom end

GTR head

GTR plenum

Custom exhaust manifold made by myself

GT35/40 turbo

Microtech ECU

index11ab76dqi7oi8.jpg

i PMed Sky30 but has not gotten back to me in over a week. my question is what his done even possible on a gt3540??? even with race fuel i ddnt think he could get that amount of power out of a 3540, let alone 17.5psi.

anyone care to clarify?

Edited by R34NRG
hows it going guys, my projects comming to a finish soon so i thought id trot around the threads again.

i came across this and was very curious as to wat everyone else thought.

i PMed Sky30 but has not gotten back to me in over a week. my question is what his done even possible on a gt3540??? even with race fuel i ddnt think he could get that amount of power out of a 3540, let alone 17.5psi.

anyone care to clarify?

nowhere near possible without racefuel/nitrous/massive headwork

Lots of lift is the key.

Most definitely possible on pump fuel.

As a comparison with the rb25de head and stock exhaust manifold he previously made 312rwkw on roughly the same boost.

And I believe it has since made 397rwkw on ~20psi but appeared to have hit a brick wall; most likely that .82 rear so at ~380rwkw it was at its sweet spot so to speak.

R33racer pulled similar numbers on pump fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...