Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The idea of the 3ltr is it spools a larger turbo quicker and makes more power 'under' the 300rwkw curve.

An rb20det can make 300rwkw but it will be as laggy as hell and have bugger all mid range.

The rods fit but the pistons will NOT unless you also run with the rb26dett crank.

The rb26 gains its additional 100cc by using a slightly longer stroke and pistons with a reduced pin height. Drop 'just' the rb26 rods and rb26 pistons in to an rb25det and the comp ratio will suck not to mention the piston sitting down the bore. So definitely not a wise move.

No the rb30 has a longer stroke and rod length. So no. :)

You can but the rb30/25 will ALWAYS make the power easier and be much more fuel effient and friendly to drive.

Start working the sohc head with big cams to get near the stock flow level of the rb25det and fuel economy/driveability suffers.

Thanks, now I'm getting to the nitty gritty of it. If I did go rb30 top and bottom, I'm looking at maybe porting the rb30 head (may include bigger valves) and regrinding the cam specifically the exhaust lobe to make it open longer and/or higher to help get rid of the exhaust to assist the turbo spool. Shouldn't this now be in par performance wise with fitting a rb25det vvt head? Yes?

I know If I did the same mods to the rb25 det head it would probably go a bit better than the rb30 head but it would also cost me the use of the head (which I may sell the rb25 motor) and supplying an extra cam which would be more expensive than modifying the rb30 head to the level I explained above.

How much maximum power can I expect with the rb30 head mod I plan above and how much could I expect if I went 30/25det with vvt keeping them both bottom ends standard crank fitted with forged H beam rods and forged pistons? How much difference are we talking about here? Is it marginal or is it like 40% or more in power difference between the 2?

Can I use my rb26 pistons in the rb30 bottom end with standard crank and if so what compression ration would I get with either rb30 head or rb25det head fitted?

.

.

Edited by The Ant

Not necessarily, you can use compressed air inside the cylinder to hold the valve up while you replace the springs, but I'm not sure who does it and drop one valve and it can be head off....

It would take a very specialised toll to compress the springs to remove the retainer collets.

dammit sounds like too much paperwork how far do ya reckon the stock ones are gonna take me?

I was gonna DIY RB26 standard cams install, just dont think I could attack the springs too that would be a workshop job and $$$ I dont have at the moment

If you pull the head off and have a workshop fit them definitely spend the extra and have a set of decent springs fitted.

Get the seat pressure up to 70lbs so you don't have to worry about float and a flat top end due to high boost and 7000rpm.

Not necessarily, you can use compressed air inside the cylinder to hold the valve up while you replace the springs, but I'm not sure who does it and drop one valve and it can be head off....

It would take a very specialised toll to compress the springs to remove the retainer collets.

I have found that if I put that cylinder at TDC, the valve (exhaust or inlet) doesn't drop far enough so that you can't retrieve it. A bent screwdriver blade does an OK job of compressing standard valve springs. Especailly when they most commonly have only 40 lbs on the seat.

Cheers

Gary

dammit sounds like too much paperwork how far do ya reckon the stock ones are gonna take me?

I was gonna DIY RB26 standard cams install, just dont think I could attack the springs too that would be a workshop job and $$$ I dont have at the moment

Hope you arent planning on fitting rb26 cams to a 25 head :P

Some explanation required............

RB25's have VVT and RB26's don't.

But RB20's don't have VVT, so you CAN use RB26 cams in an RB20.

Hope that clarifies:cheers:

I have an R32 RB25DE Head which is basically an RB20 hardware wise

Before we start, I need to clarify a couple of things. I have NEVER tried RB26 cams in an RB25. However I have used RB26 cams in 3 X RB20's. One was at high k's (170,000) and had slow to pump up hydraulic followers. This one definitely received R32GTR standard camshafts, they came out a of Production Race car engine and the camshafts had been scrutineered a few times and were definitely STANDARD. That engine had stronger than standard valve spring seat pressure. The RB26 cams that went into the other 2 X RB20's were not as certain to be STANDARD.

They definitly fit - but my old RB25 engine ran like a bag of s--t with them installed. I could not get it to perfrom well with them.

Try it and see how it goes - you may have better luck, especially if you play with the cam timing on the dyno. Theres not alot of gain to be made with them anyway.

Edited by Spoolup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...