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I've had no problems with my standard tacho, using an aftermarket ecu (wolf 3D). Are you sure something else isn't farked up? Have you tried your cluster or ecu on another car?

Havnt fired her up yet, just got the donk in last weekend. I am just trying to think of the teething issues.... I figure with the standard loom removed there will be no reading to go to the tacho, thats why I was wondering if you just hook up the tacho wire from aftermarket ecu (autronic sm4 in my case) to the wire from pin seven off the standard computer? does that sound about right? where does the standard tacho pic up its reading?

Cheers Al

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Havnt fired her up yet, just got the donk in last weekend. I am just trying to think of the teething issues.... I figure with the standard loom removed there will be no reading to go to the tacho, thats why I was wondering if you just hook up the tacho wire from aftermarket ecu (autronic sm4 in my case) to the wire from pin seven off the standard computer? does that sound about right? where does the standard tacho pic up its reading?

Cheers Al

Why is the std loom removed?

Is the Autronic sm4 a "plug-in" ecu?

Honestly, i wouldn't have an idea on the technical side of ecu's/wiring/etc, but if the ecu is not a plug-in type i doubt that will work :blink:, as equipment often need to be calibrated to gages for them to work accurately.

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Nah, bought the stand alone, figured changing heads to the 26 I might as well make a new loom to suit different plugs etc. Another challenge to throw into the mix I spose.....

Cant wait to get this thing running, hopefully in the next few weeks should finish all the little bits off. Guess I'll find out then if the tacho wire is gonna work (fingers crossed!)

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Good effort on the new loom and stand alone. Just hope there are no issues. Have you done some continuity checks through the loom to make sure it is all good? Small thing like that can save a lot of headaches later if you are fault finding.

Looking forward to seeing her running.

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So far so good I think, still got my aac & cold start valve operating, been through the new loom, traced all the wires, tagged & numbered. Got the motor in the other week so I can run the loom, many hours of torture coming I think.... Couple of weeks n should be running with any luck.

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Hey all well i finaly got my car tuned all went good it made 415kw but what iv found is that when driving it tends to spit the p/s belt and alt belt im using ross pullys and also a ross blancer just wanted to know if anyone has had this problem

ill also post a clip of dyno run

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hey guys,

am looking to do a 30det build myself, and been looking through the forums heaps of info and definately alot of reading which is great one way or another,i thought i would consult you guys as a few of you have already done it.well heres the story im planning on achieving 400kw

the combo im planning to use is:

forged pistons,race big end bearing,race main bearing,26dett multilayer head gasket,bottom end set,race piston rings, all gaskets replaced with new standard ones for my block

reading through the thread its said that the standard rods are tough so i thought it wouldnt need to buy forged correct?

can you see anything wrong with this set up?another issue is what head to use, i have been trying to track down a r32 rb25de head as the guide says its much easier to bolt on, but i have been told by a few people that the r33 25det head will be easier getting the power out of? can some one help. Im able to get my hands on a r33 rb25de head and planning to rebuild it with heavy duty spring etc anyway but i do not know how to disable or run oil feeds for vct is it better to keep it or get rid of it? can someone help me or guide me to somewhere it tells you how to run oil feeds and how to install a r33 head on the block?

all your help will be much appreciated

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hey guys,

am looking to do a 30det build myself, and been looking through the forums heaps of info and definately alot of reading which is great one way or another,i thought i would consult you guys as a few of you have already done it.well heres the story im planning on achieving 400kw

the combo im planning to use is:

forged pistons,race big end bearing,race main bearing,26dett multilayer head gasket,bottom end set,race piston rings, all gaskets replaced with new standard ones for my block

reading through the thread its said that the standard rods are tough so i thought it wouldnt need to buy forged correct?

can you see anything wrong with this set up?another issue is what head to use, i have been trying to track down a r32 rb25de head as the guide says its much easier to bolt on, but i have been told by a few people that the r33 25det head will be easier getting the power out of? can some one help. Im able to get my hands on a r33 rb25de head and planning to rebuild it with heavy duty spring etc anyway but i do not know how to disable or run oil feeds for vct is it better to keep it or get rid of it? can someone help me or guide me to somewhere it tells you how to run oil feeds and how to install a r33 head on the block?

all your help will be much appreciated

your R33 head will be fine you will find here on the forums a article i wrote on how to go about doing the head conversion with pictures provided in the post below by another member. . trust me it is worth doing with the 33 head.

normal head gasket is fine unless your going moster boost

link to article http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...30-t220112.html

Edited by nizmonut
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hey thanks bro, i just finished reading that thread as i looked back. Yeh i thought about using the normal gasket except i want it to be running 400kw safely, not planning on opening the engine up again in the near future not for a long time. Is that goal achievable without spending too much money? My original was only 300 but after deciding using forged pistons i thought il be able to get more power out of the engine. Will the 20det gearbox be alright if i used a heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel?

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You want to run 400kw with on a 25/30 with a 20 gearbox? i give it 3 trips to redline before it strips the gears. A reliable 400kw engine is not a "cheap" venture.

400kw is asking for trouble with stock rods. Get some forgies they are only ~$800 - check with a member called spoolup he sells them.

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so yah rekon stick with my original plan of 300-350 on stock internals? my plan is to have a car capable of running big power when i want it to but not constantly as it will most likely be used as a daily driver also.

Edited by Redliner007
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hey thanks bro, i just finished reading that thread as i looked back. Yeh i thought about using the normal gasket except i want it to be running 400kw safely, not planning on opening the engine up again in the near future not for a long time. Is that goal achievable without spending too much money?

Once you exceed the limits of std internals there is no such thing as cheap.

Keep it under 300 for reliability, forget using a 20 box.

I'me already at 15k for the running gear. :P

Edited by Alf
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thanks for that, so stock internal it is. My original plan was to have someting between 300-350 but then thinking about forgies i thought i up the figures slightly. I guess the extra money will help pay for injectors,turbos etc. Which turbo would be suited best for this engine? I want a turbo which is responsive not something which you have to wait for and by the time it hits boost you have to change gear.

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