Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Regardless more than 7.5k and u really should be running an aftermarket balancer.

So its either you go all out or you don't.

Standard rods resized with new bolts.

Price up what you want done to the std rods and then compare the price to spool import forged rods and you will see why its useless spending $$ on the stock rods.

has any one tried their luck with grabbing their series 2 motor from a wreckers then slappping the head on with new head gasket>?

like not touching the rings or bearings in the bottom end???

has any one tried their luck with grabbing their series 2 motor from a wreckers then slappping the head on with new head gasket>?

like not touching the rings or bearings in the bottom end???

I know a couple of guys who have whacked together something rough and cheap, seems to be working fine for them pushing decent power? You looking into doing it yourself?

its just an idea at this stage as my motor seems rather heallthy...

the factory hone marks are still looking good.

i was thinking of putting rb30et oil pump and that being the only real change to the bottom end..

will be chucking in head oil restrictors also...

im havingtrouble finding any place tha can suply the tomei press fit oil restrictors...

what kinda of power figures are your mates cars running???

im running a hks T04e turbo.. i cant imagine it flowing enough to get anything over 270rwkw..

ill be happy to get over 200 at the wheels..

i have just brought dahtone racing (from this forum) head from his 32 which has been ported and running gtr valve springs..

all i would be buying would be genuin head gasket a idler and a genuine water pump and thermostat....

oh reallly..... maybe not such a good idea with the restrictors aswell as the 30et pump??

wat pump would you suggest going with...

my other thought was a rb25det pump....

was not sure if you needed the crank collar if you went with the series one oil pump???

cheeeers

oh reallly..... maybe not such a good idea with the restrictors aswell as the 30et pump??

wat pump would you suggest going with...

my other thought was a rb25det pump....

was not sure if you needed the crank collar if you went with the series one oil pump???

cheeeers

yeh i would suggest the rb25det oil pump few of the guys suggested that to me also. you should get 200 at the wheels easy just whacking it together, some guys on the forums are talking fairly big numbers, but even saying that iv been told the factory bottom end can hold upto 500hp.

I saying that say you spend 1g max putting the 30 together on a very cheap its not gonna hurt as much as spending 5-6k and blowing it up right?

you should use a thicker gasket maybe?just an idea but im planning on using a multi layer rb26dett.

Im planning on using restricters with the 25det oil pump? Is this right/wrong?

Edited by Redliner007

Why not to use an RB30 oil pump... well it's just a bit skinny. Restrictors will be good with the 25/26 pump. Don't need to drop the CR at all so just use a single factory 25 head gasket. The collar is a damn good idea, and Nissan eventually made it standard across all RBs I know of after the 33GTSt and later model GTR32s to give a wider oil pump drive.

post-6392-1217987830_thumb.jpg

post-6392-1217988114_thumb.jpg

thanks for the offer geoff....but dad ended up getting a whole 26 head the other week anyway. So i need to change that sig now lol...Even so, we wouldnt have needed the idle control anyway...race car we just do it manually...one less valve, less weight and clutter :thumbsup:

what about leaving the stock rb30 oil pump and not running any restrictors or anything????

i planned on just using a stock nissan rb30 head gasket...

its my understanding that to fit the crank collar the crank has to be removed from the block and fitted professionally, is this correct????

cheeers

ps just ordered my dayco timing belt threw repco, cost me $60 cuz they had to order it..

what has anyone paid for a genuine rb25 idler???

haha yep ripco for sure ay...

spewing. as their is also a sprints in my town too...

oh well repco is just a pushy ride away and already paid for...

where abouts can ya purchase the head oil restritors??

yeoooowww

what about leaving the stock rb30 oil pump and not running any restrictors or anything????

its my understanding that to fit the crank collar the crank has to be removed from the block and fitted professionally, is this correct????

anyone got a spare rb25 idler sitting around??

haha

I would presume the stock rb30 pump should be ok with stock restrictors.

I remember some one on ct.com had issues with pressure bleeding off on idle with the rb30e pump. Unsure if it was a stuffed bottom end, pump etc.

Wouldn't use an idler. Use 2 x tensioners.

oh okay rekon i go with two tensioners.... its best to determen where to drill the hole for the second one after you have your timing belt?

so to get the right tension kinda thing??

salesman and a half you are dahtone.. haha im already in debt to ya..

does crank need to be removed to fit the crank collar??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...