Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

from memory it depends which power steering pump you are using, and if the belts line up correctly. Assuming the alternator/water pump belts are the same.

but for the price of the ross units why not just get one of them?

Agreed!

its a standard rebuild that im doing so i dont need the ross

I was going to use my r32 one but for the price i might as well get a new one. I remember sk posting that he uses mostly rb26, i think ill have to do some old fashioned belt checking and see if i can do the same. Otherwise im sure the rb20 one will be fine

Actually cubes will know, where are you old mate?

Edited by Gts30t
  • 3 weeks later...

hey all,

slightly off topic but im in n.z and i have a spare r32 non vct rb25de head that im thinking about selling, just wondering how much should i sell it for?

i have had it vacuum tested,crack/pressure tested and have had the valves all checked and have had it dipped to clean it all up. Only thing wrong is the exhaust valve guides have a tiny bit of play in it. The head is disassembled also but everything is there to put it back together i.e springs,valves,camshaft,gears etc.

I also have a r33 vct head that im thinking about selling what sort of price could i get for that? would it differ compared to the r32 as the r32 head are harder to find?

They both (with manifolds) go for around 1k these days.

The R32 rb25de heads can sometimes fetch a little more due to the no fuss bolt on and go.

The r32 rb25de has 'slightly' smaller but rounder ports compared to the rb25det vct head. Regardless they don't appear to give anything away in the power making vs boost side of things.

Only real issue is both heads are hydraulic of which limits total power output (400rwkw max) on pump fuel due to the inability to run cams with decent lift 10-11mm.

i only have manifolds for one of them which im using for myself. how much do you think i could get just for the single head which is unassembled? A guy has offered me 450 in bits for the r32 head?

Correct but the tomei solder lifter kit requires a cam with a smaller base circle. So extension shimming would be required.

There is a mob I have the number for that apparently converts the hydraulic lifters to solids. Have yet to contact him to find out the details cost etc.

I'd personally machine the heads buckets, grab the tomei solid lifter kit, suitable springs, reco the head and then have Tighe cams grind up a set of billets with 11mm lift or so.

Yeah the only reason i ask is because its a good upgrade for a RB20 i heard and i have a RB20 atm and having the 30 being build (well getting parts together) and just thought i could put them in my RB20 for a upgrade while i wait for the 30 then put them into the 30.

But if i have to machine the 20 head then the 25DE head then theres not that much point as i dont want to do much to the 20.

lol bad boy bubba.. I love cats.. I wouldn't wrap one in gladwrap :kiss:

I looked into solid lifter conversion with some big cams and it came to about $2500 in just parts, then gotta add machining and downtime to that!

I'll stick with my stock NA cams for now..

lol bad boy bubba.. I love cats.. I wouldn't wrap one in gladwrap :kiss:

I looked into solid lifter conversion with some big cams and it came to about $2500 in just parts, then gotta add machining and downtime to that!

I'll stick with my stock NA cams for now..

JHH Engineering in qld does the solid lifter conversion for roughly $450, then add $1250 for cams & gears.

I just picked up a big head from them for a friends car im building (26/30 in a 33gtr), labour on the head was $3130 ($6k head in total)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha thanks everyone, I'll take everyone's suggestions into consideration. If I do eventually choose a car ill post it here update on the mods I do.
    • I found the ingredients at larger amounts from a Coffee Shop. 1kg Citric Acid for €8.50 500g Baking Soda for €2.50 I tried it out tonight distilled water (I got from my ACs) and dish soap. It does get bubbly with dish soap. In just two hours the hanger has improved significantly and rubbing against any remaining rust seems to flake it off. I'm going to leave it a little bit longer and see how it goes. I have read that someone even used this solution in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a seized water pump which brought it back to life.
    • If you like more modern stuff than the R series, you should check out a V37 400R, they are pretty mod friendly
    • Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts. 
    • Just wanted to pop in an update on my setup. The CD swap has been great, I love the mazworks housing for the overall simplicity. I ended up sealing my trans tunnel with a thin sheet of aluminum reused some of the holes on the trans tunnel, and laid some window sealing EPS foam around the edges. Works great, really quieted things down and sealed up the car.  As for the power comment. Right now I am also running about 650whp. with the way the bell housing is attached to the face of the transmission I have zero doubts it would be fine, mainly because the input shaft and main shaft bearings are seated into the bell housing adapter. This means the load is NOT on the bolts to maintain the power, rather into he casing of the bell housing; Yes the bolts are doing some work there, but with both shafts locked in zero worries.  End of the day, the Mazworks solution is the easiest and safest. no need to take your trans to a shop to get milled perfectly, it fits with minimal clearancing, and you can use all your existing clutch and flywheel.  Driving wise the CD has been great compared to the big box, I'll probably swap my final drive at some point. The serial 9 shifter is gooooood, my only qualm is how tight it is, it takes a fair bit to get use to, 5th and 6th are a bit eh/hard to find at times, but maybe I need re-adjusting, and I think my clutch master is very tired and needs a rebuild. 
×
×
  • Create New...