Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The bigger the turbo the less it muffles the exhaust, that's why you can get away with a straight through setup on a stock rb20 and still have it bearably loud. With a GT30 the exhaust wheel is that much bigger and doesn't do a good job at muffling so you need a better exhaust setup. Keep this is mind when choosing exhausts people, turbo size influences the noise level drastically.

hey just a quick question,

i have just recently bought a brand new n1 oil pump will i also need to buy the jun crank collar too? and second thing i bought my oil pump from a Japanese tuner shop (st hi tec) and also bought 1 tomie oil restrictor but when buying this soichi cautioned several times not to use the oil restrictor as it is made for a rb26 and most likely to run the head dry and i have been told this by a couple of other guys too but some say to use it. Can anyone help?

my combo is

rb30 block with r32 NON vct head

wiseco forged pistons

shot peined rods

and just a standard recond rb25 head.

Quick question - how long does it take your cars to reach operating temp (we'll go by water temp)

From dead-cold to 80 degrees, it takes my donk about 5-6minutes... is this on par with other RB30s? Overall the engine does run quite hot, especially on the turbo side :P

Sounds about right. I've only recently whacked a new thermostat and water pump in there, before then I'm pretty sure the thermostat was getting stuck open as it would take AGES (read: 15-20mins) to get up to 80deg and would rise past there easily as if the thermostat wasn't opening fully.

Edited by bubba

Yeah the only thing is i only just need to get it rebuilt so it would be cheap, i would add cams but i dont have that much money to spend so thats about it.

I saw it made 344kw on a RB25 not much done to it at 7500 RPM but didnt boost till about 4.5.

Yeah I'm using one... 3" Hi-Flow Metalcat; I wasn't really using it for any performance reasons... more for legality, and also to get rid of the repulsive fuel smells coming from my exhaust which was also coating my rear bumper yellow. Great success in achieving these two goals.

Is it true that the Mazda 323 1.7d cambelt is the same width but 152 teeth long so it can be used?

Yep. half the price too :laugh:

Myself and 3 other guys i know well are running them with no problems.

Hey guys quick question..

Haven't got a block yet, but first thing I do will be to strip it down and go get it checked over before I rebuild the thing myself

I'm gonna get some pricing from some engine rebuilders around me, to help with the planning

What are the things do you guys think I should be asking for?

I hear you don't really need to rebore the cylinders

So just get pricing on machining the deck, acid dipping, repositioning of the tensioner, crack testing? Anything else I should get pricing on?

Plan for worst, hope for the best really.

Can someone confirm for me if its ok to use the RB25DET idler pully and tensioner with an RB26 head? Apparently there are two different tensioners, one for the RB20/25 and another for the 26...

Can't say I've seen any difference. Just use 2 x 25 tensioners as you can have too little slack with the high tensioner/low idler location.

There is no need for a difference as they do exactly the same job. Don't buy from Nissan but go to rolling bearings or somesuch. Should be about $120 for the pair.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...