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in the guide it says you might have to dis-connect the wastgate when you are running the rb25 ecu on the 3litre conversion,is that an external wastegate he means

Where in the guide does it say this?

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Why are you trying to run it on the stock ecu?

it says for the run in period stock ecu if fine,so why not,i mean i will put on the dyno anyway,i not going to be giving the car a hard time anyway,not until i get ecu,which will be ems!

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Where in the guide does it say this?

the one i have downloaded before,must of been a early version,i mean the guide has been updated regularly, i have a highflow turbo with internal wastgate,so no problem there!

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RB25 ecu isn't too bad with the 30 but the rb20 ecu freaks out if you make boost.

Hence wire the gate open and use lots of throttle. :)

Ideally do it on a dyno. Mines been fine though 100,000km's under its belt with wiseco forged pistons that 'slightly' slap on cold start and it still isn't blowing smoke. When I pulled the head off at 70,000km's the bores looked perfectly fine with no scuffing. :ninja:

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RB25 ecu isn't too bad with the 30 but the rb20 ecu freaks out if you make boost.

Hence wire the gate open and use lots of throttle. :D

Ideally do it on a dyno. Mines been fine though 100,000km's under its belt with wiseco forged pistons that 'slightly' slap on cold start and it still isn't blowing smoke. When I pulled the head off at 70,000km's the bores looked perfectly fine with no scuffing. :)

That's awesome Joel :ninja:

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RB25 ecu isn't too bad with the 30 but the rb20 ecu freaks out if you make boost.

Hence wire the gate open and use lots of throttle. :)

Ideally do it on a dyno. Mines been fine though 100,000km's under its belt with wiseco forged pistons that 'slightly' slap on cold start and it still isn't blowing smoke. When I pulled the head off at 70,000km's the bores looked perfectly fine with no scuffing. :ninja:

cheers!

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Here's a question. I am looking at selling my DSM to get a 240sx with a RB30 hybrid. You guys seem to know what your talking about, so Ill ask. I know next to nothing about RB motors, as they are tough to come by stateside, so I am looking for some ideas or questions to ask the guy.

Here is what he says about the engine:

Walbro 255lph Fuel pump,

AEM Uego wideband,

AEM fuel pressure gauge,

AEm boost gauge,

3inch Test pipe,

3inch Catback,

Engine: RB30det,

Rb30e Block rebuilt,

Rb25de head cleaned,

Rb25det s2 cams (retains VVT),

Greddy Intake Plenum,

Q45 Throttle body,

Rb25det Neo injectors,

Q45 MAF,

NGK BRK6e plugs,

Mishimoto Radiator (never overheats),

Nismo Slave cylinder,

Rb26dett valve covers,

z32 fuel filter,

Ported exhaust manifold,

Rb25det neo turbo ported with stage 3 wheel,

ported exhaust housing,

Rb25det oil pan,

Rb25det front sump oil pickup,

Greddy timing belt,

ACT stage 4 unsprung clutch,

Mckinney 1 piece driveshaft,

mckinney motor mounts,

Mckinney Trans mount,

mobile 1 synthetic oil,

redline trans fluid

FMIC w/ 2.5in piping

oil catch can here is 2 videos of the car

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Hey there,

I am doing an RB30/26 build and struggling to find some info on the forum.. hoped someone could spare 5 to help.. As you may have seen on the forum my block arrived as a series 1 type so does not have the oil feed drilled through and the return is not in the block. The water feed is there but just needs a clean up. Can you please let me know what thread sizes each of these should and also what is the best way to tackle drilling through the oil feed? The hole is there but presumable blind after about 3.5inches. Not sure how much I need to drill to break through? and also what dril size I should use? Next is gaskets. Can I use a complete RB26 gasket set on an RB30 or do I need an RB30 bottom end and RB26 head set? From what I have read I should use the RB26 head gasket?

Also where can I find all the torque settings I need to put it back together? I thought that would have been a sitcky?? If someone can please point me in a direction of a download for the RB30 and RB26 or where to find the info I would be grateful.. I will gladly compile a thread with all this info in one place and post it up for future reference.

Thank you in advance

Lee

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Lee

- the oil drain could be welded onto the sump directly if you dont know the info on the drilling of the return. say -12 AN or bigger welded onto the alloy sump

- Oil feed - look at the fittings of your turbo, find if a restrictor is needed, then drill and tap according to what you need, there is nothing really stating that you need a specified size, we just use what the block has since there is no choice.

- Torque settings can be the standard of your donor motor, 26 or 25 i believe are the same - look for an R33 engine manual through google.

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Thanks for the info... I think I have decided to take an oil feed from the pressure switch instead.. this means there is no risk of runining the block! I will also go for the drain into the sump and if I end up running an oil cooled turbo I won't need the water feed so no need to drill and tap the block at all!! Result!

Thanks

Lee

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All .. :D

New to SAU , Just want to thank everyone that has helped to make this so good and the PDF file.

Taken just under a month to get through all the pages . Could be a guiness Record lol .

Just one question does PDF have a new update ?

Again Thanks guys

:):devil::down::P

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just a few questions mates.

how much will it cost to hone the rb30 bores at a machine shop? they still look like there honed after pulling it down, shud i get it done again anyway when i put new rings in?

how much to acid clean it or hot wash it or whatever they do to clean it?

on the bearings that come out of it it says nissan then some numbers then it has std on them. does this mean there standard size or nothing to do with it being standard size?

shud i get my standard new rings and bearings from a nissan or holden dealer or shud i get them from repco or similar? which will be cheaper?

how much shud i expect to pay for the new main bearings and new big end bearings and new piston rings all standard parts?

do i need to put new bits in the part where the piston goes on the end of the rod? is there bearings in there or what?

thanks for any help

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1- You wouldhave to ask your machine shop, but $150 should be about right

2- $60 or so

3- They are standard size

4- Either, but i would go to Auto one

5- Not much

6- Little end bushing, from what i can gather from the rest of your post i wouldn't worry about it.

And its SHOULD

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