R33 Rb30 Conversion

[Cubes]

Also remember people...

When you are quoted a price it ALWAYS ends up being more.

Its rather frustrating actually, as origionally I was quoted:

Head Reco: $415

Head work: $310

Total ------: $725.

I droped the head in and it ended up costing an initial of $830.

The head was in perfect nick no welding etc required.

Where the extra $100 came from I don't know.

After everything was assembled the total was/is $890.

Others quoted me $900 etc.. which is pretty close to $890 obviously, I wonder if they also would have jumped in price.

[Skyrine-Dave]

i just got quoted $495 + gst to have my head crack tested, surfaced, cleaned up, valves reseated and timing set up... then i have to supply the VRS kit on top of that price.

these guys will weld my vvt oil feed for free if i want them to, they also did a vac test on it and checked for warpage for free. It vaccums up alright and has very minimal (normal) degree or warpage. so thats all good news for the head

[alkaline]

How about a whipple in the RB30DE engine I am looking at building an RB30DE with a supercharger instead and aim for over 250kW although I am more interested in a smooth torque curve so the power feels like n/a. Is this possible with say 5psi and about 9:1 comp ratio? I would retain the VVTi too...

[JNR24]

Very possible, you could probly run a slightly larger pully and goto 10 or 12 PSI. (Considering the turbo RB25 runs a 9:1, why couldnt you run the same boost as the turbos?)

just a thought,

Trev

[Steve]

I want to put a blower on mine too, how much can you pick up a whipple for over there, and what sort of flow?

[alkaline]

So 12psi at 9:1 is ok then? What ratio would be good for just n/a with vvti... 11:1 ?

[sik32]

well the engine and r33 gear box are in my 32, all that is left is one piece tailshaft, custom plenum, ta51/to4 turbo, custom in/ex manifolds, turbosmart 45mm wastegate, new dump, new intercooler, oil cooler with remote kit, 650cc injectors to bolt on.

hoping to race at Jamboree in a few weeks

[Cubes]

Originally posted by Skyrine-Dave

Anyone know if i can just push top feed injectors into the RB25det fuel rail? like could i straight fit a top feed Rb20 injector straight in ?

Why use the Rb25DET fuel rail?? use the RB20 fuel rail.

Steve has recently performed this. Do a quick search.

It requires a simple modification with how the fuel rail bolts up. Apart from that they slide straight in.

I'm glad I am using the RB25DE head it makes things so much easier.

[Clicks]

I currently have a R33 25T Skyline and am looking to do this conversion as well. Friend of mine is sending me up a rb30 short motor with the vvt oil outlet put in for me.. Also going to clean it up a little for me port the exhuast and intake ports a little. And move the Tensioner. From what I have read here I will be able to pull my motor out (with help from friends) and bolt on/hook up the rb30 bottom end to my Rb25DET top end. hook it all up - dial in some advance timing (25-27 degrees i belive i read that was what 25T is using) and drive away. happy boi as well as geting the gasket kits. From what I can tell the Rb25det injectors and oil pump will be fine with it all.

Joel your how to guide is awsome. Congrats to you on the job well done.

This is a extreamly helpfull thread!

[OVL-747]

i dont know about a skyline , but that is some pretty advanced timing mate

u will wanna have a great fuel system to match it so as to not ping like a little hoe

[Cubes]

Yer I wouldn't be dialing in that much timing until its on the dyno, even if it has got a low comp ratio.

[alkaline]

its actually 4 to 6 degrees to get better low end torque, then when the rpm goes up the VVTi retard the cam in sync in order to keep the torque right up through the rev range. Up at a certain ammount of rmp the VVTi will stop retarding the cam at about 10 degrees at which point air speed falls behind the engine rpm speed. A turbo will increase torque at higher rpm due to the fact that at such high rpm it becomes inefficient for air to fill the cylinder before the valve closes. As air is forced in under higher then normal atmospheric pressure, the engines highest torque level will shift to a higher point in the rpm range.

[Cubes]

alkaline..

We are talking about ignition timing. Well I think we are..

[alkaline]

So he wants to do the 1/4 mile in reverse?

[Cubes]

say what???

Here's a quote from the post I thought we were talking about..

hook it all up - dial in some advance timing (25-27 degrees i belive i read that was what 25T is using)

25T did the conversion and when on the dyno required this much timing. I think he made just over 200rwkw on 14psi and a stock ecu.

[alkaline]

But advance timing is only required at higher rmp right? at low rmp I guess the engine may not even start?

[Cubes]

Ignition timing is different to cam timing.

Ignition timing is the spark fire timing at TDC.

It is what you set via the CAS, it sets the base ignition timing.

The ECU then adds or reduces timing depending on various variables i.e if you are running to much boost the R33 ecu will pull timing and richen up the fuel map in turn creating a power dip.

The CAS sets the base ignition timing for the ecu to work from.

[alkaline]

Yeah I know, I was being sarcastic because if you advance the timing too much the engine will ping / backfire. Thus force the cylinder in the opposite direction... (thats what I mean by doing 1/4 mile in reverse)

[darkstar]

Ok im in the process of reading all 25!!! pages (upto page 8)

Just like to clarify that Series 1 non turbo blocks, have blanks for the turbo fittings.

All series2 non turbo blocks (even some late 86 series 1 blocks) have bungs in place of the usual turbo fittings. You will have 3 fittings on the block, 1oil in, 1 oil drain (big bolt near the sump) and 1 water drain. The water feed comes off the heater hose fitting via a T peice from factory, peice of cake.

True turbo blocks are stamped with an A8 at the end of the engine number. Non turbo blocks (even with the bungs) are stamped A6 at the end of the engine number. The engine number is on the exhaust side, near the bell housing at the bottom.

Ill add some more comments when i get thorough it all. Pretty great info at the moment, but it needs to be all trimmed down to the relevent bits for the conversion, perhaps in a document or a modified version of the thread.

[Roy]

Question for the ppl using Arias pistons. If using std head gasket, and assuming any headwork doesnt bump up compression ratio, what CR do the forget Arias pistons leave you with.

Thanks

(Yes i did read the whole thread before asking question... now im taking an asprin and laying down... my head hurts)