R33 Rb30 Conversion

[brother_david]

Guys I was just doing some casual reading AGAIN on the RB30DOHC guide, and in relation tot heR33 RB25 head, it claims you will need to:

"The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain."

What is the external head oil return it speaks of? Is this the standard one at the front of the head that needs to be T'd in?

I'm on my second RB30DOHC motor, and never had this fitted... What issues are normally seen if this isn't plumbed in?

Is it the same thing recomended for the RB26 head? Fitting an elbow at the back of the head and running it to the sump to keep the head from filling up with oil?

Seen in this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Id...html&hl=oil

Edited January 17, 2010 by brother_david

[TiTAN]

no it is completely different to the one on the rear of the head. This is on the exhaust side of the front of the head just behind the exhaust cam gear / in front of runner #1 of the exhaust manifold.

Mine just has a T piece into the oil drain as the guide says appears to be working fine.

[MBS206]

no it is completely different to the one on the rear of the head. This is on the exhaust side of the front of the head just behind the exhaust cam gear / in front of runner #1 of the exhaust manifold.

Mine just has a T piece into the oil drain as the guide says appears to be working fine.

Do you know what would happen if it were left disconnected? (As in blocked)

[TiTAN]

presumably it would effect oil drainage back to the sump when under heavy brakes

[[200]]

Do you guys think it would be beneficial to 'redo' the conversion pdf file that is floating around? There is a bit more info available now. I honestly dont mind typing one up and hosting it if you think its worth the time to do one.

Just a thought...

[urtwhistle]

200, sounds like a great idea mate, esp some of the info in regards to 33 VCT and 34 NEO heads. I.E modding the 33 VCT brass plug on the head for the oil supply. but u still need to run an external oil line to a Neo head if the VCT is to be retained.

the oil sender thread is 1/8bsp

little things like that would save a huge amount of time.

on a seperate note, does any 1 bother reinstalling the oil/water cooler when they do the conversion? it looks so useless im tempted to leave it off my neo/30.

regards

Chris

[TiTAN]

The 30 block has a spot for the oil pressure sensor on the side of the block and presumably if you are going to the effort of a 30 conversion you can afford an oil cooler/filter relocation kit.

I personally have not used the heat exchanger on my 30.

[urtwhistle]

cheers Titan, yeah i already have a filter relocation kit from my 25. as changing the filter was incredibly frustrating when changing it from below the car. (dam gas convertor and all the electronics are mounted directly above the filter). which brings me to another problem. my LPG kit hasn't got a hope in hell keeping up with my new setup.

regards

Chris

[Redliner007]

hey guys ive recently had more issues with my 30 just wondering if someone could help me out... recently the motor after an hour or so highway drive started to knock, I just can't understand why...initially i thought it was the hydraulic lifters or something as it sounded like it was coming from the head,it was fairly similar to the sound I heard when i first done the start up after a while of warming up it had gone away. I can't understand how it maybe a bottom end knock, as everything is acl race, forged pistons, shot peined rods, n1 oil pump etc motor was fully balanced and had a run in tune. I only had a standard rb20det turbo on there as I had just finished running it in and only just done the oil change. I cant understand what it may be the car did not over heat on the long trip or lose any power. Thinking back i do remember when i was bringing the car back from the tune at traffic lights the oil pressure droped dangerously low and when i gave it a few revs it went back up again so i kept the revs up on the drive back home, but since then it has never happened again (this would have been in the first 50km or so of fresh build).

I do not know what it can be, please help?!?!? The oil that i'm using is Penrite HPR 10

I'm soo stressed out, just hope I don't have to pull the motor out again.

[Redliner007]

Anyone able to help?? I done a compression test couple of days ago didn't really help out too much got between 110-120 across the cylinders, but that makes me think whether compression may be down as the motor is still relatively fresh, or maybe because of the gasket used.

[Mr. Untouchable]

maybe try posting in the forced induction thread mate. a video/sound clip wouldnt go astray either.

P.S i'd drop the HPR 10 and grab some castrol edge 10w60.

I hope its not the bottom end for your sake mate!

[Redliner007]

maybe try posting in the forced induction thread mate. a video/sound clip wouldnt go astray either.

P.S i'd drop the HPR 10 and grab some castrol edge 10w60.

I hope its not the bottom end for your sake mate!

Hey thanks mate, I was considering changing the oil in it anyway and seeing how it goes as it only happened within 2-300kms of the new oil just not sure aye, cars parked up now look at it every day in anger lol just getting over all the dramas and head aches,even considering selling it. Pity as I haven't even been able to seethe full potential of the motor.

[mattis96]

just browsing the net and came across this which shows more detailed pictures of the build process, might help some people out

http://nico.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=368405&page=1

[[200]]

^

Nothing that's been covered in this thread / pdf.

[shakotan-cefiro]

hey guys

"wow" this is a long thread .

i read through most of it and i have some questions please help if you can

i have a rebuilt rb30et and a r32 non vct head

i plan on building a 25/30

how can i increase compression from the horribly low comp if i just combine the two

how much can i take of the head and block to bring it back up ... idealy id like around 8.5:1

i am doing all the work myself except the machining so i need to know what to tell the workshop

thanks heaps

Ben

[MattsR33]

Hey guys, awesome thread, plenty of good info in there!!

I have a S1.5 R33 GTST and am also thinking about doing the RB30DET conversion, but with a RB26 head. Was just wondering about a couple of things before i start my build.

Are there any advantages in using the RB26 head compared to the 25 head? (Wont need VCT as getting bigger cams with adj cam pulleys)

How hard is it to fit the RB26 head into a 33 GTST with the stock wiring loom for injectors, sensors etc.

Can i still use my RB25 Power FC to run the engine?

Hoping for 450rwhp or more, RB30E S2 block prepped, Forged conrods / pistons etc.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks

Edited March 16, 2010 by MattsR33

[Redliner007]

Hey mate, without trying to sound like a know it all, alot of the rb26/30 questions and advantages build info is avail on this site under the rb26/30 conversion thread. As with your engine management system im not too sure you would probably have to ask someone who has been there done that. My guess however is no? 450rwhp can be easily produce on the rb25 heads without the need of spending so much money. For wiring looms i don't think theres too many major issues as i haven't seen many problems coming from that. At the end of the day you call the shots mate.

[bubba]

Hey guys, awesome thread, plenty of good info in there!!

I have a S1.5 R33 GTST and am also thinking about doing the RB30DET conversion, but with a RB26 head. Was just wondering about a couple of things before i start my build.

Are there any advantages in using the RB26 head compared to the 25 head? (Wont need VCT as getting bigger cams with adj cam pulleys)

How hard is it to fit the RB26 head into a 33 GTST with the stock wiring loom for injectors, sensors etc.

Can i still use my RB25 Power FC to run the engine?

Hoping for 450rwhp or more, RB30E S2 block prepped, Forged conrods / pistons etc.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks

The easiest way is to use the head/loom that suits your car/management, i.e. I used an R32 RB25DE head as it was the easiest bolt in solution for my 32gtst as everything is in the same spot as the RB20.

If I was you, I would use the 25DET head you have and the PFC.

Fitting a 26/30 into a gtst is doable but you are pretty much doing a 26 conversion (26 loom, 26 sensors, 26 management).

[MattsR33]

The easiest way is to use the head/loom that suits your car/management, i.e. I used an R32 RB25DE head as it was the easiest bolt in solution for my 32gtst as everything is in the same spot as the RB20.

If I was you, I would use the 25DET head you have and the PFC.

Fitting a 26/30 into a gtst is doable but you are pretty much doing a 26 conversion (26 loom, 26 sensors, 26 management).

Ok, thanks for that mate, I know it would make sense to put a 25/30 into my GTST as ive already got the 25 PFC and loom, but i really wanted something different in the engine bay, and imo 26 setups look too good to resist!

So lets just say if i did still decide to go a 26/30 into my 33 GTST, could i use the 33 GTR loom, GTR Power FC for management? OR is it just too much for the sake of a 26 head?

Cheers guys.

[bubba]

Yes if going 26/30 then use the 33 GTR engine loom and PFC, you will also need all the appropriate sensors off the 26 (water temp sender is different, need the intake temp sensor, different coils if yours is a series 2 25 etc etc).

It will cost a pretty penny but if you're prepared to pay, then by all means go for it. Keeping your 25DET head is the cheapest/easiest way to go and the stock throttlebody/plenum are good for nearly 500rwhp.

Edited March 18, 2010 by bubba