R33 Rb30 Conversion

[JNR24]

Powergrip Industries (Aust) Pty Ltd

ph: (03) 9890 0344 Belting Mfrs & Supplies

Is this them???

if its not whats there number....

Cheers,

Trev

[SteveL]

Originally posted by JNR24

Powergrip Industries (Aust) Pty Ltd

ph: (03) 9890 0344  Belting Mfrs & Supplies

Yes, that's the one. They actually get the belt from Gates and cut the width down themselves to 25mm. They also have a web site at:

http://www.powergrip.com.au/

[Bl4cK32]

Ok, now i'm seriously confused. To my knowledge i have an rb30e block. Series two. Bought it out of a car. It has one sensor (electical plug) screwed it between cyl. 5 & 6 on the drivers side (towards the back).

There are three holes just below the top of the block (~60mm down), and are ~150mm apart. They are tapped, but only go into the block then stop.(sorry, never removed a knock sensor b4). One is above the right engine mount, the sencond is above the oil fliter, the third is 150mm back.

What i thought was the knock sensor is between the last two.

Am i right? Are these holes the positions for knock sensors, if so what is the plug by itself?

Can any 1 take photos?

sorry for the questions, just wanna learn

[SteveL]

Originally posted by Bl4cK32

There are three holes just below the top of the block (~60mm down), and are ~150mm apart. They are tapped, but only go into the block then stop

These are the knock sensor bosses. The RB30ET only uses the middle one.

On an RB2x block with 2 knock sensors, they are screwed into the 2 bosses close to each end of the block.....the RB30E block has the exact same bosses in pretty much the exact same place, so it's just a matter of unscrewing them from the old RB2x engine and screwing them into the RB30 block. They even have exactly the same taper thread. I have my bottom end built and the sensors in place, but don't have a digital camera at the moment, otherwise I'd post a pic.

As to the other electrical connection you mention, sounds like the oil pressure sender....is it right next to the oil filter ???

[Bl4cK32]

right i checked my block(rb30). The sensor next to the oil filter has a fine thread on it. It has another hole in line with it but its on the engine mount? same thread. These are in the same positions as the two sensors on my rb20. The rb20 sensors have coarse thread. go figure?

I have a large sensor next to the oil filter on the rb20. This has a plugin the middle, and what looks like a spot for a couple of wires soldered each side of it.

Im confused....

[SteveL]

The sensor just to the left of the oil filter (ie toward the rear of the block) is the oil pressure sender. The RB2x blocks have the same thing in the exact same place. It is a 1/8" BSPT (taper) thread in each case.

All the bolt holes in the block to the right of the oil filter (toward the front of the block) are for the engine mount + the inlet manifold support bracket.

[Bl4cK32]

Look for -Joel-'s Rb30 DIY guide. Its at the bottom of his sig. It give a rundown of everything u need.

The rb30 came out of a VL Commodore. The series 2 NA version is the one to go. It has the turbo and oil lines just bunged up with bolts. The rb25de head with non vvt came from the last models of the r32.

I bought the rb30 short motor for $110, and the r32de head + all intake side for $750 AU$

[Steve]

Another option, if you want the engine complete is to contact RIPS, they are from NZ and do fully built engines with RB26 head manifolds etc ready to drop in. And they will ship, he quoted me about $350NZdollars to ship to aust.

If you have a look on www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz on the forums under 'for sale business' , there is contact details etc.

[slow_r31]

one of the r31 guys has been running a 9.1 comp rb30 n/a for like a year. 21 psi, at apparently 0degrees timing under full boost.

its all about the tuning really, with 8.3 comp, personanlly id b worried about over-reving the rb30 (they dont rev like 20's and 25's) and upgrading/shot-penning the rods, balancing crank etc

[alkaline]

Just wanted to clear something up.

A friend did some chamber measuring and came up with a figure of 8.06:1 using the twincam head on a RB30E block, not 8.3:1...

The piston measured to be 1cc dished, turbo pistons 11cc dished.

For the compression ratio i want, 9:1, i need a 10cc domed piston!

I guess we shouldn't take whats in a mag as gospel! But then there can be alot of variation that throw the figure off too...

Cheers, Phill.

[JNR24]

You dont need to make up all your compression with your piston. I am running Arias RB30 Turbo pistons, with RB25 head and strengthend standard RB30 bottem end... BUT i am shaving the head and the block to acheive a higher compression ratio. Should be up around the 8.7:1 (According to Motor Improvments in St.kilda)

[Cubes]

RB30 Pistons are Dished??!?! The stock pistons that were in my Series II RB30E were lumpys with cut outs for the valves.

Or is my understanding of dished pistons wrong?

[alkaline]

Dished with valve cut outs?

[Guilt-Toy]

Ok Guys now its my turn. After getting my PFC and dyno at 213rwkw the engine only lasted 2 days before blowing lots of smoke. The engine has 186,000ks on it so I guess this is RB30DET time.

This is what ive done so far.

1: Parked car in garage stole miss's laser

2: ordered rings / bearings / geniune nissan head gasket

3: organised a shed to do conversion

4: organised RB30 bottom end from Commodore shop newcastle $100 (series 2)

5: wishing i knew what parts to order from what supplier. What exactly do you need for the VCT modification & the timing belt and idler pully.

I have read through and got a dayco part number however my car parts supplier called their dayco distributer and they know nothing of a 94470.

Can anyone help ?

[Guilt-Toy]

Yes the engine must be blown. its using 2 litres of oil every 2 days.

thats not good.

I did the seal in turbo on sat and same problem.

So where do you get these fittings from ? and what fittings do you need exactly and what about my problem with the dayco timing belt? why dont they have that part number listed??

[Guilt-Toy]

I was also told that the RB30e bottom ends dont have the turbo return line which is on the front side of the exaust manifold and that you also have to make up brakets for the power steering pump & air conditioning.

Is this true ??

[alkaline]

>> "Insert broken record comment here."

Obviously no one replied to me about finding the right supercharger (vortex) to give 20psi @ 1000cfm

[GiJOr33]

i didn't have to make up brackets for power steering, and there is provision for the oil return line, you might just have to drill and tap the hole... no big deal

[[SweN]]

i dont know Guilt-Toy, but i wish they would keep up the good work

this is a great thread guys, dont let it die now!

im very interested in this modification, and i think i will build up the engine while i save up for the car at the same time

im in the process of working out EXACTLY what parts i need to swap into an r33 gtst. i plan on building it up then selling the engine in the car once its complete and tested ofcourse (although using the RB25DET as a parts bank seems good at the moment too )

if someone doesnt mind helping me out when i get around to my list, i would much appreciate it. 29 pages to re-read to get it right

[[SweN]]

ok guys, heres my basic list. what am i missing, forgetting to include?

*********

going into r33 so gearbox stays stock

bottom end....

BLOCK: Series 2 NA VL cleaned/sanded, then dipped

PISTONS: NA VL

CONRODS: NA VL, sanded then Shotpeened

CRANK: RB30 crank, balanced

BEARINGS: Nizmo big end bearings : Nissan main bearings

OIL PUMP: RB25DET or RB26DETT with JUN adaptor : need to use RB20/25/26 oil dip stick //maybe scavange from current engine

WATER PUMP: RB30 water pump

FLYWHEEL: any RB wheel // scavange from current engine

CLUTCH: current engine item

top end....

TURBO: stock RB25GTS-T item, or whatever the car has on it

HEAD: RB25E head // something gives me the impression that going down the NA head route is much MUCH easier in the end.

PLENUM: RB25DET

FUEL RAIL: RB25DET

alternate top end....

TURBO: what car has

HEAD: what car has

PLENUM: what car has

FUEL RAIL: what car has

misc....

Cam Belt: Dayco 94470

RB30E thermostat

RB30E Head Gasket

RB25DET head studs //from engine

RB25DET gasket set

*******

No rush fellas, this will be a slow process and i want to get it right the first time

EDIT: haha fellas, real funny. no really, can i have some help?