R33 Rb30 Conversion

[geordie]

I thought that the vl rb30 block or sump was unable to be put into the gtr cause of the driveline?? thus why anyone who wants the 3ltr bottom end in the gtr goes for the 25k os giken ones.....any comments??

[GTR-Ben]

You can modify them to bolt onto a 4WD sump.. there are GTS-4's with RB30 hybrids in them.

I'm not talking about the sump however, just the RB26DETT head. I just want to know what CR I will get with the GTR head on the RB30E block..

[Cubes]

I checked out how well the runners line up when bolting the inlet manifold and plenum together.

It appears no 5 & 6 runners line up perfectly with no lip where as all the rest seem to be mis-aligned.

In order of worse to best:

3,2,1,4. No 5 & 6 don't require any hacking

Could it be possible that the 3,2,1,4 runners have a higher degree of turbulence in turn could this possibly be the problem to high powered RB's leaning out the rear cyclinders slightly (no turbulence in 5 & 6 in turn more air flow)?

The question is should I grab the dremel out and get to it or leave it?

I also attacked the rocker covers with paint stripper. Underneath all that paint is what looks almost like chrome with a little bit of polishing. I'm going to repaint them black and have a chrome/black colour scheme under the bonnet. Polish up the plenum etc..

[Clicks]

Hey -Joel-

Can't access your new version of the rb30diy guide? somthing with yahoo?

how much out are the runners? is it only a little? if its an easy job then go for it. why not have everything matching as much as posbile? surely it can't hurt.

If its not and you plan on making even more power later on. Then I would say leave it for now and then get custom ones later on when you require it.

If you do end up doing post pic's

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

Great thread guys,

I have been reading your posts for some time and finally thought that I should add something.

My first point relates to the differences between series one and two blocks. Some series one blocks have all the necessary oil and water provisions ready for use and do not require any drilling.

The major difference between the two blocks is on the front of the engine. The series two blocks have a machined flat surface with a hole drilled and tapped in the middle of it that you can locate your idler pulley on. The series one blocks do not have this flat surface and require a little fabrication to locate the pulley there.( Anyone who has issue 21 of Zoom magazine with the green Torana on the cover will be able to see that the RB30DE engine featured has had metal putty used to create a surface to mount the pulley). I discovered this the hard way almost 3 years ago.

Secondly, using RB25DE pistons gives a very high CR(10.5:1) not a low one.

Series 8 RX7 injectors are side feed and will fit the RB25DET fuel rail. Due to the rotary's use of primary and secondary injectors they come in 2 sizes. It has been a while since I looked at injectors so I can't remember the exact sizes but both are quite large and work better than the earlier 550cc top feed items.

You have stated that RB20 fuel rails will fit R33 intakes. Only the ECCS rails can be modified to fit. The NICS rail is completely different.

The bracket for your power steering pump & aircon comp will also need slight modification to fit due to one mounting hole on the block sticking out about an inch. Measure the difference accurately and simply cut the bracket down to suit.

I hope this little bit of info helps someone.

Be wary of R31s..........

[Steve]

Thanks for that BIGBLOCK, some really good info there, and welcome to the forums (I notice this is your first post) even though you have been watching for a while:)

[riceline]

Hey guys

I think I’m about ready to get onto the building of my beast.

I have

Rb30E Block - been honed and cleaned

Rb30E Crank - Balanced

Rb30E Rods - Balanced, Cleaned and polished

Rb30E Pistons - Balanced, Cleaned and polished

ACL Big End/Main Bearings

ACL Rod Bearings

ACL Piston Rings

Dayco Timing belt

ProTorque Rb30 Head Gasket

GBC Rb30 Tensioner Bearing (for timing belt)

Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy (To fill hole in Rb25det head)

Everything else is in the car on the 25det

As far as I can tell I’m all ready to go

Accept for a Copper T Piece for the oil pressure sensor.

Copper line to run to the head and tap the hole in the head. As well as numerous amounts of oils to lube it up on assembly.

Just have to paint the block and put it all together

What do you guys recommend for the running in process?

What I have been told is. Put it together and fill it with mineral oil - do 50km's of fairly low speed high gear driving. Drop the oil. More mineral oil in. do 450km's of the same sort of driving. Drop the oil. Do 500kms of mixed driving - normal and high gear low speed. Drop the oil. Do 500km's of just running around (city driving bit of highway, down the shops etc) and then should be ready to go.

Just wanted to say a quick thanks to all evolved in this as it makes it a lot easier!

Thanks guys

[PHaT MR30]

I have a crack in my current RB25DET block, and i have heard all the storys about the RB30, so i have been looking into it for a while now.

Ok so from what i can tell i need a S2 RB30 block to make things a little easier, new pistons? (i would like to run same comp as current setup).

And basically rebuild the whole bottom end. no big deal

what cost are you looking at for those hyperetetic? pistons and if you are chasing no more than 400 crank hp can you just use ACL pistons?

what i want to know is what have ppl done with the oil gallery for the VCT on the RB25DET head? i would like to retain this if at all possible.

How much is the JUN oil pump thing?

what turbo can you use? I deally i would love to use a HKS GT30 or similar but at this current time and short notice of engine rebuild funds do not permit. I was thinking a VG30 turbo and possibly high flow or atleast enlarge the wastegate?

i am going to get my inlet and exhaust manifolds power ported at the same time.

i have been told this causes over fueling which may mean i can use the injectors still? Running a microtech at the moment by the way so tuning is not a problem.

any help would be greatly appreciated, i am so pissed off that i have only had my car 2 months and not really lit the wick in terms of power (driven to work mainly) and this happens, car was pretty much doctored up to sell (waterpump coated inside with heaps of water sealant crap). but hopefully its going to benefit me in some way.

Imagine Hybrid car with hybrid engine? yes please!!

[PHaT MR30]

Does anyone read this thread anymore?

I really need to know whats the deal with this swap as i am going to look at a VL Sii block this weekend and i want to know if its worth my while doing ths swap, or just get a new RB25 block?

i also want to know more about the VCT mod that you guys are doing cos it doesn't seem too clear to me

[Bl4cK32]

Yes we do read it still

Cheapest option - do what RIPS does (as far as i know), buy a rb30e short motor, new rings and bearings. Buy a rb25de head, polish combustion chambers, away u go. when it blows costs less than 2g for complete motor

As far as vvt goes - im not using it cos its not in the 32, and thank god cos it sounds a hassle.

Normal rb25 oil pump will do.

Std. pistons will cope to 250rwkw if tuning is good.

HKS GT30 series is ideal for this engine. I will be running mine on for a month or so on the std rb20 turb that has been high flowed b4.

Or u could go out and spend the 10K + that it costs to do the perfomance upgrade side of it.

[PHaT MR30]

Hmm, ive already got a RB25DET head and i have access to several complete RB30 blocks all in ok cond for cheap

they would really only need bearings and rings and freshen up

Im not to worried if it costs a little bit, but i don't want to spend any more than $3k (ive got everything else in place ECU, fuel system etc)

[GiJOr33]

Do it man... it's the same as replacing the RB25 block, probably cheaper

and it will be a torque monster compared to the RB25

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

Keep your VVT. Simply tee into an oil feel (at your pressure sensor will work) and run a line up to the head. If you look back through this thread and at the page Joel has been compiling you will see where on the head to run it to.

[JNR24]

Will the RB25 input shaft fit into the RB30 Spigit bush?

Is there any machining requierd here?

Or can i use the RB25 one?.

Cheers,

trev

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

Yes it will fit straight in.

[JNR24]

See thats the porblem...

Isnt there suppose to be a 1 thou interferance fit?

Correct me if im wrong.??

so the RB25 Transmission input shaft will fit a stock RB30 Spigit bush?

Thanks just need to be sure thats all! =)

[BIGBLOCKR31COUPE]

I had no trouble with mine and I haven't heard of any problems. Because of the slight interference fit it is easier to remove the transmission from the car, fit it to the engine and install the complete engine-transmission together as a unit. Trying to lower the engine into the engine bay and then bolt it up is very difficult.

Just remember to drain your gearbox before you remove it.

Geoff.

[Cubes]

I remember fitting the VL 5 Speed to my VL... What a nightmare.. I ended up cracking the exhaust manifold studs.. Stupid me, I should have removed the exhaust before I decided to get angry with the thing and force the back of the engine down as the firewall was stopping the gearbox from sliding in.

I threw many a hammers, sockets & spanners that night.

[Bl4cK32]

So can u fit the rb30 + rb25det gearbox in an r32 in the one go all bolted up

*a smile grows as i think of the time saved*

I dont fancy lifting a r33 box 10 inches off the ground while im flat on my back

[GTR-Ben]

I can't see how it wouldn't fit when the bell housing pattern is the same..

Just make sure you jack the front of the engine so that it angles the back down, makes the job 100x easier.. in a GTR I couldn't imagine getting the box in without doing that..